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Old Climbing Gear

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leetaff 24 Jan 2015
Hi,

First post so please bear with me! Cut a long story short - used to climb years ago in my youth - was hoping to get back into it about 8 years ago but then our first born came along, then the second.........

I'd bought at the time (8 years ago) - a basic lead rack, new rope, harness, helmet etc. This has pretty much remained unused.

Now looking (again) to start out again - booked a refresher course at PYB - my question is around the lifespan of some of the kit. Ive searched the net and there seems to be a lot of conflicting advice. I understand that pretty much the soft stuff, slings, dogbones on quickdraws, rope etc has had its day and im happy to buy new rope and harness. My question is more around the metal. As it is all pretty much all unused - whats the thoughts on karabiners, rocks on wire, nuts, cams, belay (DMM Bug).

Only looking to start on some low level stuff (poss up to VS) and single pitch until more experienced so wondering whats the thought on using the kit that I've got??

Look forward to the comments.

Thanks

Lee
 Doghouse 24 Jan 2015
In reply to leetaff:

Only my opinion of course, usual caveats apply but I would use it - most of my metal wear is over 8 years old anyway! Just check each piece over to ensure there's no obvious damage.
 Rick Graham 24 Jan 2015
In reply to Doghouse:
Agreed, reasonable advice.

Check out the original care and instruction advice if you have it or look up online.

FWIW I still occasionally use a 25+ year old harness and metal hardwear probably older as appropriate and convenient.

I have possibly a fair assessment of any risks for amateur use.

I am probably over cautious in retiring climbing ropes early but realistically they are actually quite cheap compared to the rest of a rack.

( Top roping on a hand me down "dogging rope " at a climbing wall and seeing the sheath explode in front of your face when you load it for the lower down is not an experience I want to repeat. )
Post edited at 16:07
 gethin_allen 24 Jan 2015
In reply to leetaff:
It all depends on the storage in my opinion, if everything has been stored correctly in a cool, dry and dark place then I'd use it all given a good check over for wear.

this is only my opinion and it's up to you what you do. One big question is your confidence in the gear, if you're not confident in it then get rid of it as you'll never be happy and won't climb well with it.

just to add, taken from the beal website re rope lifetime:-

Lifetime :
- Intensive and daily use : 1 year
- Weekly and intensive use : 2 years
- Daily in-season use of average intensity : 3 years
- Weekly in-season use of average intensity : 5 years
- Several uses during the year of average intensity : 7 years
- Very occasional light use : 10 years
Post edited at 17:33
 jkarran 24 Jan 2015
In reply to leetaff:

Personally I'd use all of it as is. All the kit I still happily use is that old or older and if I'm honest, plenty of it is fairly beat up.

Your choice.

jk
leetaff 24 Jan 2015
In reply to jkarran:

Thanks for the advice all - much appreciated.

👍
leetaff 24 Jan 2015
In reply to jkarran:

And if I'm honest I wouldn't have given a second thought to using any of it until I srarted researching it.

It's all been stored well, the rope looks brand new, all the cams, crabs etc function perfectly. It's like it was just bought.

I think even beals rope usage recommendations (and it is a beal 10.5) are even after 5yrs unused (don't quote me).

Thanks again everyone for your comments
Regards

Taff
 jsmcfarland 25 Jan 2015
In reply to leetaff:

If it's been kept dry and out of sunlight then there's no reason that the kit couldn't last 10/20/30 years or longer in all honesty. If you have your doubts (I wouldn't) I'm sure there will be loads of willing people on here to buy it off you

have fun!

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