In reply to Rick Graham:
> Not a kitchen fitter but have bought two homes that had kitchens with breakfast bars (both since removed ).
> Your dims sound about right. Depending on the worktop width ( you don't appear to want the hassle of extra cuts and finishing ) , you are probably not pushing the worktop strength but make sure the unit holding it up is not toppled over.
> We are talking cantilevers and tension on the fixings on the base unit. Units and tops against a wall almost stay put under their own weight. ( Ours did once when I could not be bothered to finish a kitchen for two years, my wife is very patient ).
> At the cheaper end of the market, worktops used to be cheaper than units, so you can afford to make mistakes with the tops.
Thanks just got to decide whether to use the full 500mm overhang (with a support bar) or just go for 300mm and no support bar.
The worktops are approx 50mm thick. I will be getting a professional in to do the actual worktop installation, I am only doing the base and wall units etc. Basically, as I have been installing the units I have decided to change the layout. I didn't realise that the worktops were so big when I purchased them so with the layout change I can now get a breakfast bar with an overhang on two sides of the final corner unit (this wasn't part of the original design).
The unit shouldn't topple as it is attached to the neighbouring unit which is attached to another 6 on that wall. All the units are then attached to the wall via several battens attached at different heights. The room wasn't square so I squared it off using the battens as the works tops are deep enough to cover the extra depth.