UKC

Just found out that a climbing buddy is being posted to Turkey, so obviously planning some visits. Happen to be stuck at work today, waiting for the phones to ring, so don't have access to my atlas and most internet-based stuff centres on Antalya (sp?) with brief nods to the bigger stuff in national parks.

Our climbing history mostly centres around multi-pitch, self-inflicted soft epics, so really looking for more of the same, trad or bolted. Enforced 'surprise' bivys have featured in the past.....

Anybody got experience of Turkey's bigger lumps of rock?

Martin

In reply to Martin not maisie:

Have a look on my website, www.myturkishadventure.com
What areas are you looking at? You wont be disappointed with a trip to the Aladaglar

In reply to Big Steve:

Thanks, Steve - that's supremely helpful: lots of advice and no hard-sells anywhere. I'll definitely be looking at Aladaglar - any news on the English version of the local mountain route guide?

Martin

In reply to Martin not maisie:

Thats interesting, some of the links on the website are still linking to the old Aladaglar page, I'll look into this later.

Guidebooks:
This is last years English guidebook, which I havent seen yet so cant comment.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aladaglar-Rock-Climbing-Guidebook-Recep/dp/B00NIW0O...

This is the older one, more mountain routes:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ala-Dag-Turkeys-Crimson-Mountains/dp/1852841125/ref...

This one is essentially the same as the one I have linked to above, not much difference:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aladaglar-%C3%96mer-B-T%C3%BCzel/dp/9758293249/ref=...

There is a decent campsite there, although it is too far to walk in everyday to the big routes. Winter will be cold, summer will be nice in the mountains. There used to be a small bar set up in the mountains called the black tent bar, no idea if it is till there or not.

In reply to Martin not maisie:

Here's the trad guide to Antalya
http://www.ewpnet.com/maps/antalyatrad.asp

We spent 2 days at Sivri Dag. The first was mainly for logistics (finding the place) - just as well as the description in the book is hopeless. We did a couple of single pitch routes and had just started a 3 pitch route when the heavens opened.
The second day we climbed the NE ridge, which the guidebook says is 12 pitches/8 hours. It's actually about 24 pitches (using 60m ropes) plus 2/300m scrambling to the main summit, a couple of long abseils, and a descent path that you'd be lucky to find. Fortunately we met a couple of astonished locals at the end of the main climbing section (they'd never seen anyone up there other than them and their friends, let alone foreigners), they showed us an extremely unlikely descent from the first summit, which you'd absolutely definitely fail to find.
Our friends weren't so lucky and spent a very cold night on the hill. I went back the next day to try to show them the descent from the 1st summit, but couldn't find it so they had to continue to the main summit, I waited at the foot of the abseils to show them the path. Got back with half an hour to spare before we left for the airport
Anyway, I'd still recommend it as an adventurous day out, but start early!
Photo:
http://climbing.me.uk/Turkey/Sivri%20Dag%202/slides/P1160774.html
The NE ridge is obvious. The other climbing is on the slabby face on the left.

In reply to Martin not maisie:

Ive just checked, Tunc Findiks book has been translated and is now available:
http://www.adrenalinoutdoor.com/Aladaglar-50-Rota-Harita-ingilizce-Kitap_15...
I doubt you will find a copy in the UK though

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Holy cr*p, that looks just the ticket, as much for the potential for faffing about at the top as the climbing. Lovely-looking piece of rock, too. What general quality is the limestone thereabouts?

Thanks for that.

In reply to Big Steve:

Thanks for looking that up. What I may do is, once my mate's installed, get it sent to him in Turkey. It'll get him motivated.

Thanks for all the info - still going through it as, horror of horrors, had to actually do work in the workplace yesterday.

In reply to Martin not maisie:

The first 2/3 of the ridge was excellent rock, the rest of it less so (one of the reasons our friends were benighted was a twisted ankle due to a hold coming off). Apparently the final scrambling section was better quality again.