UKC

Does anyone know the winter grade of Broad Stand please, done a lot of searching and looked through a Bill Birkett and co Lakes Winter climbing guidebook but no joy?

In reply to Mark Collins:

Once found an icefall running down the crux. Only November so didn't have a axe. Hacked steps up it with a pointed rock, got to the point where I could whack my pseudo axe over the top, had to decide whether to pull up on it with no other hold, chose not to and went back down my steps to hack my way up Deep Gill. About Grade II in those conditions, I reckon.

In reply to Iain Thow:

Thanks Iain.

In reply to Mark Collins:

Been up it once in the wet , never again!

Been down it hundreds of times , now know better and ab to Mickledore. Summer or winter.

Could easily be a precarious tech 6 in winter.

It may be banked out with neve perhaps every fifty years and grade II on the day.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Thanks Rick, I think I'll give it a miss but Iain's alternative may be an option.

In reply to Mark Collins:

Tech 6!? Good heavens.

In reply to Iain Thow:

It's a well polished rock move, with holds which slope outwards. I was leading E1 at the time, very happily, had down climbed BS several times in the dry, no problems, tried it in the wet once (on a top rope) and fell off. No idea of the winter grade for such a move.

In reply to ablackett:

One of my mates (who had also been known to lead E1) fell off it in similar circumstances. We very nearly didn't put the rope on, very glad we did or Pram would be history. On the time referred to above the whole rock step was covered in about 3 to 4 inches of good solid ice. Not that steep so thought Grade II (might have been III though, hadn't done that much winter climbing at the time).

In reply to Iain Thow:

So

Has anybody actually climbed BS in true winter conditions?

In reply to Rick Graham:

Not me. The only time I've been near it in winter was with you when we descended the top part then abseiled down to Mickledore.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Not me either, did it once with a bit of sloppy ice about but holds were dry, plus the failure mentioned above (when the conditions were perfect if you had the right kit).

In reply to Iain Thow:

I wonder if there will be a queue to try it tomorrow ?

In reply to Rick Graham:

Agree with Rick - lethal summer and winter. Feels like a HVS solo in summer when wet.