UKC

A couple of days ago I ended up on a rock climbing trip with my local youth club, this was a complete novices day out, but I went along just for fun anyway, I'm looking to do my SPA this year, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to see what it's like, plus it's always nice to touch rock, and it is January so any opportunity to get out is a good opportunity.

Everyone else who was climbing ended up with the first timers jitters, as we all did once, but I shot up everything, I don't really worry about the height I'm at on toprope, and we were on probably a vdiff or an easy sev at most. So people were talking about how it wasn't fair that I was a climber already, so I should do the next one with one hand tied behind my back.

So I had a go, used a prussik loop and carabiner to tie my hand. I tried the harder of the two routes first, I fell about two thirds of the way up it and couldn't get past that move without another hand to use, but I felt the challenge, so I tried the other route, and managed it after a couple of falls trying to start the route.

I was just wondering if anyone else had climbed one handed, and what's the best one handed climb out there?

I'd like try to lead something really easy one handed next time I'm out! Maybe there ought to be a new system of grading for one handed ascents, and another option in the log book on here.

In reply to Happeuss:

Placing gear will not happen one handed will it. The crack above the hands free ledge maybe but anywhere else.

In reply to Happeuss: Lol.
I dislocated my shoulder on day 2 of a climbing trip to the US back in '02. After many days watching everyone else climb I finally top-roped a 5.7 at Joshua Tree, (Dog-leg Crack IIRC) one handed. It's therefore highly recommended

In reply to Happeuss:

I believe the Dawes did this one one-handed and one footed:
Incursion (E1 5b)

Obviously the only possibilities are going to be slabby really

There's a boulder problem at Cratcliffe that you're meant to hop up too

In reply to Cake:

I think he actually did it one legged with no hands... phenomenal!

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

That's just mean. It was 5.8 when I was there and everybody knows JT grades are nails...

In reply to Happeuss:


Definitely Sloth at the Roaches*.

*health and safety disclaimer: no it isn't. Do not attempt

In reply to Cake:

As soon as I saw the title, I was thinking I bet JD would have tried it

In reply to Cake:

JD also did Downhill Racer (E4 6a) one-handed:

youtube.com/watch?v=NfhZFGQv7Ew&

In reply to Happeuss:
I coach climbing, and one-handed climbing is an incredibly useful coaching technique. Often you just tell people not to use one hand though, instead of physically tying it up. I sometimes add the rule that if you can balance with both hands off the rock, then you're allowed to swap hands if you want to.

Having only one hand develops balance and sometimes bit of dynamic movement. It establishes the foundation of good movement patterns.

Think about the climb you did one handed? Were you body positions any different to when you were using both hands? How? Which body position do you think is better/more efficient and why? How can you apply that to your normal climbing?

Mehmet

In reply to Happeuss:

Climbed a few sports route one handed, up to about 6a seems pretty much do-able, its a great thing to throw into training as well, bouldering single handed helps with balance, technique etc, can often find several different eliminates for right and left hand too.

In reply to Happeuss:

Well, I broke my little finger on my left hand a couple of years ago, and climbed one handed until it healed (the pain made me not use the other hand).

Put me right down into the 4s though.

Neil

In reply to Happeuss:

I have only ever climbed one handed indoors to show a disabled scout that he could have a go. I know someone who regularly did a couple of routes every session using only his weaker arm to try and even it up with his stronger one but I don't think he was particularly successful. He might have been trying to compensate for "fiddler crab syndrome"...

In reply to Happeuss:

One handed climbing drills are brilliant for coaching, I regularly get my students to traverse and top rope one handed; It develops timing, accuracy and focuses their minds on the importance of balance and their awareness of centre of gravity.

For slab climbers it's a great way to improve technique, some slab climbs are almost as easy to climb one handed than with both!

My hardest one handed lead was a 7a+ short and technical slab in Squamish with all the clips made with the same hand.

Seamstress in the slate quarries was a fun one handed solo many years ago when I was stupid enough to solo on the slate.

It's worth mentioning that there are climbers out there who have no choice but to climb one handed due to disability, and their achievements are infinitely better than ours....

In reply to Happeuss:

I´ve soloed VS no handed, you just need to pick the right chimney.

In reply to howifeel:

Not true. https://ukc2.com/i/164221.jpg

Of course, it's very limited, but probably climbing with tennis balls in hands might be useful training as well. Not so good on steep ground, though.

In reply to Happeuss:

I've played at one handed climbing many a time. Never had my hand actually tied behind my back and I think that would make it more difficult than having an un-used free hand to flag for balance and wave around to change momentum. It's good fun and teaches you a lot about body positioning and footwork. I'd even go as far as to say that I've done the occasional problem that felt easier with one hand as I was more focussed on getting weight onto my feet.

In reply to Happeuss:

I once reversed Lookwoods Chimney from just below the top with a small goat held under one arm , I was out soloing in my trainers and found it stuck I even reversed the layback crack one handed. Crazy really.

In reply to Happeuss:

I've top-roped inside one-handed a bit, generally on really easy stuff. Mostly when I'm being a climbing-dummy for someone doing a belay lesson or belay test.

I also climbed a bunch of stuff indoors one-legged for a while, after breaking an ankle. Then, again, for a while after spraining the other ankle. Mostly top-roping again, but a bit of bouldering (yeah, I know, I shouldn't have) with the broken ankle.

In reply to Happeuss:

I used to work with a one armed spa holder, used a fancy arrangement involving a fifi hook for leading.