UKC

Crampon advice - Grivel G20 with converter/strap toe bails?

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 sebbo 02 Feb 2015
Just wondering if anyone has modified a set of Grivel G20 crampons to use newmatic style basket bails or the converter set toe bails? (http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/accessories/77-c2n_bail)
If so then I'm curious about the results.

I climb in La Sportiva Trango Alp boots which I'm really happy with and have picked up a set of G20 crampons so keen to get them to fit if possible. If not then I'll stick em in the box until I get round to replacing my boots sometime in future.
 david100 02 Feb 2015
In reply to sebbo:

I have put them on g14s so that I could wear b2 boots. Seem to be fairly secure when front pointing on my front steps. Might get chance to test for real this weekend. One thing. They are a lot harder to get on and off the crampons than the traditional wire bail. The metal seems to be a bit thicker and stronger. I want to be able to swap bails for different boots. In order to take them off I had to apply a mechanical solution involving bits from b and q.
 stuart58 02 Feb 2015
In reply to sebbo:

The outdoor shop has 4 left 18 pound plus postage I ordered pair today
 stuart58 02 Feb 2015
In reply to david100:

What grade are you climbing at with your b2 in g14s
 pec 02 Feb 2015
In reply to sebbo:

I've just swapped from a B3 boot to the Trango Alps for comfort and weight reasons and converted my Grivel G12's with those converters.
The converters are a very tight fit and I had to use pliers to get them on so they aren't coming off by accident once fitted.
The wire which connects the 2 sides of the converter sits on top of the crampon and the toe of my boot sits on top of that which leaves a small gap between the boot sole and crampon of about 3mm. When I used to use these crampons with the full step in binding with my old B3 boots there was no gap at all so the new arrangement looks less secure but they seem tight enough and I used them for the first time yesterday and they felt very secure and I couldn't tell any difference (except the boots are more comfy!).
OP sebbo 03 Feb 2015
In reply to pec:

Big thanks for the advice fellas. Defo going to rig a set of those bails up to test them out, hopefully next weekend if the cold weather holds.

Got the required tools and plenty persistence to get the new bails on, and even if it's a mare it's a welcome trade-off for a solid, bomber connection. I can say from past experience that the last thing you want to worry about when halfway up a dicey winter route is a crampon pinging loose! (thankfully I was seconding when it happened previously)
G20 crampons arrived today and generally they look the bizz but must admit I'm not sold on the 3no. central points below the middle of the foot.

Pec - regarding the 3mm gap, I've got the same thing with the plastic toe bail converters I put on my Petzl M10 crampons. I know what you mean, it doesn't look great or instil confidence but having done 4 routes last winter and 1 on Sunday I have to admit that they seem to be totally solid.

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