UKC

Having never done this route before I was wondering what condition it was in at the moment and any 'tips' that might come in useful - particularly about the descent options.

Many thanks.

In reply to westmorland:

No idea what conditions are like on the ridge, but I would have thought there would be some decent ice up there just now.

Checking SAIS the avalanche risk in Coire na Tulaich is fairly considerable, so I'd either take great care descending through there (it's the usual descent), or seek another alternative further back on the hill.

In reply to westmorland:

I would echo the advice about descent route but also be aware that the final summit slopes above Crowberry gully can also be avalanche hazard, we had a large slab break above us and slide down over the legs a few years ago on that slope and it was fortunate we had straight axes to drive into the firmer snowpack to prevent being swept away. Sadly the team following us suffered fatal injuries when they descended the coire a few hours after us. The actual climb of the ridge is straightforward enough though, but heavy powder can make it a slog.

In reply to westmorland:
Don't confuse it with D Gully buttress from below

The access via broken ground has one icy step where crampons and helmet are often required with or without rope/belay

The bit above this in the bottom of Crowberry Basin can be a dodgy slope with significant avalanche potential

The most technical moves are in the bottom 6 m of the ridge

They are avoidable by continuing up the gully past a small icy step then break back left onto the ridge after about 20 metres or so

Don't pitch the whole damn thing, move together with a short length of rope between you placing runners

The right facing corner high up is easier than it looks with a good stance below it

Snow slopes above can be dodgy as described above

Have an agreed descent plan in your head and the bearing on your compass before you leave the car. The summit ridge can be surprisingly confusing and it is easy to lose the path and everyway is down so it is easy to veer off

If the Tulaich descent is dodgy, continue round the spur for a fair way and pick an easier way down

You don't need much gear, or two axes

In reply to westmorland:



Everything else everybody else have said, plus : I drove past it on Monday and, at least from the road, it looked in bloody amazing conditions. But that could change quickly on Friday I reckon.

In reply to westmorland:

The Gully above the ridge is an awful way to end the ridge I think, a dull trudge and can be avalanchy even is the ridge and approach have been fine. A much better way is to scramble directly up from the Col between the crowberry tower and the hill. It's much easier going than curved Ridge its self so shouldn't be a problem if you've just climbed the ridge. It has the added benefit of taking you pretty much directly to the summit too.

The ridge its self is blocky and positive so feels really secure, esp with good snow.

Cheers,

Stuart

In reply to StuDoig:

I think that way sounds familiar to when I did it. Stand facing Crowberry tower, turn 180 degrees and climb? There's a sort of ledge to start you off

In reply to tallpaulselfridge:

Any advice about where is best to come off the ridge if coire na T is dodgy?

I've never had to do it, yet, but reading this post made me think about how far back I would go.

In reply to StuDoig:

I've done the ridge dozens of times and I didn't realise there was a gully above the ridge. I've always gone up to the gap between the tower and the hill proper.

Learned someting new today.

In reply to tallpaulselfridge:

Aye, thats the one - so much better than the gully!

Cheers,

Stu

In reply to estivoautumnal:

Lucky you! I had quite a few outings up that gully as that was the way I was shown when we first went up - wish I'd looked harder at alternatives as its a horrible scree filled thing in summer and normally cruddy in winter!

Cheers!

Stu

In reply to StuDoig:

Like estivo it never occurred to me that there was any other way than going up to the neck below the Tower. And if you're not in a hurry a neat little scrambly diversion gets you to the top of the Tower.