UKC

Hey. Could anyone point me and my partner in the right direction. We've been climbing for about 10 years on the local crags and mountains around the UK. We now want to take a leap on to the snow and ice but only have experience on rock. Would the best way to go, be that we take a weeks intro course with a reputable company as I don't know anyone who could take us. I can't see any other way really, but I just thought I'd ask you guys who have been there. Thanks.

In reply to gazfellows:
i found reading good books on mountaineering helped inform my choices on the hill
in particular i found inspirational/informative
'chance in a million' (you might just stay home)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chance-Million-Scottish-Avalanches/dp/0907521592/re...
Twight 'hard fast and light'
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Extreme-Alpinism-Climbing-Light-Fast/dp/0898866545
Herman Buhl
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nanga-Parbat-Pilgrimage-Lonely-Challenge/dp/1898573...
Bonnatti
http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Mountains-Life-Walter-Bonatti/dp/0141192917/ref...

i think most folk would get more out of any course or trip with friends after reading these for background

oh and run up hill for 1/2 hr a day, it will make it all seem much more fun

Personally I think it pays dividends to get into some winter walking first as many of us graduated from that. Long mountain days with a rucksack (you might have this experience in summer already?) and learning basic winter skills and snow travel underpins technical winter climbing. If you get some decent experience walking in winter and being able to travel across fairly steep (but ungraded ground) safely then it makes it much easier to jump into graded climbs. And I don't mean you - but too many people want to jump straight into hard routes - which with the right money and time I guess you could do, but you miss out on so much.

In reply to gazfellows:

I second Milesy. The fundamentals are the basis on which things are built. Things such as walking on crampons, using an ice axe (not climbing), navigation and all the other things in the game.

Milesy also makes a good point about wanting to jump onto to harder routes.

In reply to gazfellows:

Join a club. The BMC have a comprehensive list off all the local climbing clubs, and I'm sure there'll be several which'll happily take you on board and show you the skills

In reply to gazfellows:

+1 the comments above re getting into winter walking first. There are plenty of good winter skills days/courses around which will set you up well for that. Once you grow in confidence in that context, a winter climbing course could well be helpful. I did a week with Martin Moran and Ken Applegate, both of whom I can highly recommend.

In terms of books for technical help, I've found this very helpful: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Winter-Skills-Essential-Climbing-Techniques/dp/0954... Well worth reading alongside getting experience/doing courses etc.

In reply to gazfellows:

I would say it depends on where you sit on the time/money spectrum.

If time is no consequence, then Milsey’s approach is the way to go. Winter climbing isn’t that “hard”, grade V always feels about VS/HVS to me, but there is a lot more to it than just the climbing. Navigation, getting to the crag, moving over snow, how to use your crampons and axe effectively, learning about snow, condition, cornices etc all take time to master.

However, if you are money rich/time poor, then a course is a good way to distil some of that learning in to shorter period. Experience pays in the end though…..