UKC

I am starting this topic on cornish climbing to find out what climbs are considered the best in cornwall. Various grades and levels would be great!

In reply to jgdavis:

Diocese. Best VS in the world.

In reply to jgdavis:

Then ask the mods to move it to destinations: the local area forum is for access etc.

In reply to jgdavis:
If you have access to the guides for the area the three star routes fall into this category.
Rockfax also have a list of Top 50 climbs for the South West. The ones in Cornwall will be very good.

In reply to jgdavis:
I find the Cornish granite really hard. Thuggy style, stiff grades, and often greasy. Favourite routes on the granite would be Desolation Row in the Great Zawn and...actually I'm struggling to think of others I really liked, although the crags are awesome and very beautiful - I just get beaten up every time I go.

But the other rock-types have some of my favourite routes anywhere: Astral Stroll, Rock Dancer, everything at Lower Sharpnose, and Mastodon - possibly the best wall climb I've done.

(These are all routes in the low E-grades btw).

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Cornish granite isn't all thuggy, Jon. There are loads of well-protected, technical routes that aren't too steep in beautiful settings. At HVS - E2 what about:

Excalibur (Carn Les Boel - secluded channel with seals)
Stone Boom (Pordenack Point - exciting hand traverse, technical in-balance crack on second)
Fourteen Fathoms (Carn Barra - neat and fingery on a stunning bit of rock. Axis and Dialectic are brill too)
Delilah (Sennen - fingery and balancy rather than thuggy, easy if you are wall fit)
Chlorophyll Cluster (St Loy - nice cracks, all in balance)
American Dream (Zawn Kellys - intimidating-looking but steady and loads of gear)
Bishop's Rib (Chair Ladder - another stunning suntrap with nice rock pools. Delicate to start with but with enough gear to stop you falling into the trench!)

You should give the thuggy stuff another go too - start with Golva at Sennen!

In reply to jgdavis:

I'm probably conflating 'best' with 'favourite', but here goes...

Dream/Liberator has a fun and some say 'challenging' approach, atmospheric zawn, brilliant route/climbing
Across the way at Bosigran,
Ghost and Phantom, crossing the big roof and feeling like miles above the sea.
At Lands End
it used to be Yankee Doodle before it fell down. Nothing like having a rising tide at waist level while belaying a very leisurely lead by Geraldine! Otherwise, Longships is worth the ab-in, another great zawn.
At Carn Barra
I've got a real soft spot for Grande Plage, technical and fiddly gear. Excellent.

In reply to jgdavis:

Door Post (HS) - Bosigran
Venesburg (VS) - Bosigran
Right Angle (HS) - Gurnards Head
Demo Route (HS) - Sennen

North Cornwall

Wreckers Slab (VS) - Cornakay Cliff
Box of Delights (HS?) - Vicarage Cliff
Blistering Barnacle (E2) - Dyers Lookout