UKC

Great Zawn Little Orme and The Lleyn

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 mike lawrence? 11 Feb 2015
How benign is Great Zawn likely to be at the end of Feb assuming dry weather? Me and my little friend FatRob want to do Glass Wall and Quietus, i'm keen not to have wait till bird restrictions are lifted in August but even more keen not to freeze and whimper in Feb.

Also we've never been to The Lleyn, I have the Lleyn guidebook and North Wales Rock but any recommendations in the E1 to E4 range? Preferably where it might be warmish.

thanks

mike
 mark hounslea 11 Feb 2015
In reply to mike lawrence?:

The Great Zawn is a very cold and wild place subject to seepage with quite a bit of traversing on steep grass with real death potential. Personally I would perversely only go in on a day when it is warm enough to climb on the mountain crags.

I would think that most people tend to climb the same classics on the Lleyn and going off piste will sure be an adventure. The most amenable routes I have done are Path to Rome, Bardsey Ripple, Cripple Creek and the combinations on the Scintillating Snitches /knowing Her wall. I still have nightmares about Votes for Dogs and Byzantium and I only seconded that!

One of the best days I have ever had in Wales was doing the outstanding Fantan B.

Have fun
Cheers
Mark
 Dave Ferguson 11 Feb 2015
In reply to mike lawrence?:

I would leave great zawn till the summer, I went down in winter once and it was very intimidating as its gets no sun this time of year so can be very cold and greasy.

South facing Lleyn crags are great this time of year, Pen y Cil is south facing, with Guilemots Groove at VS, Prodigals Return at E1 and Manx Groove at E3, the finishes are loose but the routes themselves are pretty solid. Bird ban starts 1st April

Samurai (E2) at Tyn Towyn faces south west and bird ban starts in March.
other areas of the Lleyn at Cilan and opposite Bardsey are already bird banned. Craig Doris will be fine though.
 Adam Long 11 Feb 2015
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Craig Doris is a sun-trap and gets better weather than much of North Wales. Porth Ysgo is the same and well worth a visit even if you're not a boulderer - we were too hot in t-shirts once on New Year's day!

Byzantium is the must do at Doris at E4, Cripple Creek the same at E3. Three Dandy Scuttlers is also very good at E3. Knowing Her is worthwhile at E2 but I think the better climbing on the Golden wall is on the harder lines after a dry spell. All the routes involve rock of variable quality.

I think you might freeze on Fantan B this time of year, it faces NW and catches the breeze. Will also be bird-banned soon if not already.
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Thanks everyone, will leave Great Zawn till the summer then, it does look fantastic on the photos but no one ever seems to talk about it so am intrigued to go. Unfortunately my little friend FatRob is a bit of a grade snob so would have no chance of doing Fantan B with him anyway and will leave that for a different partner.

thanks again,

mike

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