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DWS Vietnam

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lifeofphild 12 Feb 2015
Hey my lovely peoples of the rock climbing world!

I'm in Vietnam for a month in June and want to get in a bit of DWS, Does anyone recommend particular locations, crags, routs puzzles or tips (like how much stuff to take if i go by boat).
I done some dws before and had my camp 10 minutes from the cliff face. but this trip I won't have a camp and car full of stuff, only what I can fit on the back of a mopehead. the only gear I have planned on taking are my old climbing shoes and a water bottle (unless you persuade me otherwise)

peace, love and pies
 Twisty 12 Feb 2015
In reply to lifeofphild:

I'd recommend getting yourself to Cat Ba Island (Bus, Bus, Boat, Bus) from Hanoi, and speak with the guys at Asia Outdoors. They run DWS day trips which if you're on your own is probably going to be the most cost effective method. They'll take you out on the big boat and use basket boats to get you onto the Rock.

Hawai 5-0 is the wall they'll probably start you off on, which has some great lower grade routes on good rock and above deep water. 3 brothers crag and Unemployment wall (near Polish Pillar) is also good, and is another favourite of theirs.

If you're feeling strong, ask Vu (climbing guide about 'Dark Horse Crag'. One we developed over two trips in the past 4 years.

Hang ka Cave is a beautiful place though full of tourists kayaking, again we've done some new routing here.

You could speak to Dave Lucas (google expedition consultancy) as he has a metric s*&t tonne of info on the climbing there. He has all the notes from our two expeditions to the area. He can certainly point you in a good direction.

Kit wise, if you're happy to be taken to the crags Asia Outdoors use daily, take your shoes, liquid chalk and a bag of loose chalk to keep on the boat (spare bags without lining work and dry well) in between attempts - just put a pinch of loose chalk in each time. Water and food. Towel and think long sleeve jacket.

If you want to find some new routes, or climb on some of the crags we begun to develop, take a 3m length of Bamboo (available on Cat Ba) for about $5 and check the depth. 2m is a good minimum depth to work to. Make sure you sweep the entire crag for submerged spikes the fishermen tie their houses to, which only reveal themselves at low tide. The tides can come out quite quickly, so keep checking the depth. The tide swing can be quite high, so some crags we walked beneath angle keep in water at low tide were climbable at high tide.

As ever, be cautious of loose rock on new routes and be aware of the boat driver beneath you. Most are quite good, others get high and sleepy and require shouting at!

Oh and say hi to Vu. (Watching him climb is a delight - 8a barefoot....)
lifeofphild 12 Feb 2015
In reply to Twisty:
Thanks Twisty!
I couldn't have asked for a better reply! Thanks man! the bamboo pole is a great Idea!
is the Asia Outdoor groupe a big thing with lots of people or is it more 1 to1?
I'm gonna google all this info! realy good info to get me started on this trip.
thanks again
 Twisty 12 Feb 2015
In reply to lifeofphild:

Asia outdoors is a company who run day trips. We used them simply to organise a boat for us to live on. Their trips can have big groups but I reckon dws you may have 4-5 in a group depending on demand that day. Kayaking seems to be more popular.... they're quite flexible though so have a chat with them. currently being run by a Brit so give theM a bell/email.

Their centre is based right opposite the horrendous arch on the main sea front in cat ba. Second floor. Cool place to hang out. 3rd floor is the bar to go to in cat ba to play pool drink cheap ice cold beer and meet cool people. Enjoy it. Shout if you need more.
 Dave Lucas 26 Feb 2015
In reply to lifeofphild:

Indeed I do have a s**t tonne of info on the area. You can start by looking at the following page that is on my site:

http://expeditionconsultancy.com/wp/2012/12/vietnam-climb-dws-climbing-expe...

This also includes a PDF of the tide tables for 2015 so you will know the best 8 days of the month to visit. Please feel free to email me any questions that you may have.

Good luck and safe travels

Dave Lucas
 Dave Lucas 26 Feb 2015
In reply to lifeofphild:

One more thing... We have load of images of our recent trips to the area on our Facebook page. Please have a look and give it a like

https://www.facebook.com/TheExpeditionConsultancy
lifeofphild 24 Mar 2015
In reply to lifeofphild:

sweet! look so cool out there! Im trying to get back on top of my climbing for the trip, and work out dates/times/tide! thanks for your replies!

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