UKC

Hi I can't find nothing any where in the Internet on the correct way to belay on the mammut realization shorts. My climbing centre keep telling me to tie in then belay off the tie in. But every photo I see the carabiner is straight threw the belay loops. Or do I use a d shape Biner for tri axle loading. Plz help

In reply to Climbing cockney:

You spent over £100 on a pair of trousers with a harness attached? Are you trolling? :S

In reply to Climbing cockney:


Shouldn't that be nuffin?

In reply to Climbing cockney:

More money than sense, you kid!

Those loops serve for both tie-in and belay. You can put karabiner though them and belay from it. Or tie a knot like your gym asks you to do. Loops are very short and not very convenient to belay from really. But it's personal preference.

My partner was climbing in those last summer.

In reply to Climbing cockney:

So your the one who fell for it!

In reply to Climbing cockney:

Tie in, and belay off that loop.

That's the preferred method with a conventional harness, so I fail to see why these should be any different.

In reply to ianstevens:

Preferred by whom? Do any harness manufacturers recommend it? (For normal harnesses with belay loops, obviously)

I hope you use a knot that isn't prone to rolling when cross loaded - unlike, say, a figure-8

In reply to nutme:

The OP's probably a troll, but

Really?

In reply to AlanLittle:



Do you know if this has ever happened in these circumstances?

In reply to 3 Names:

Not offhand, and I suspect it could only become an issue on a multipitch stance if you also had part of the belay clipped back into the rope loop. Still, however small, it's an avoidable risk with no great or obvious benefit compared to using one's harness as it's intended to be used.

I sometimes clip one of the rope loops as well as the belay loop when I'm belaying on multipitch - because why not? little bit of extra redundancy - but I see no sensible reason to avoid using the belay loop altogether.

In reply to Climbing cockney:

Why do people have such an aversion to this harness? It's £100 price tag is in line with other premium harnesss on the market and although it'd be rubbish for trad it's perfect for sport and indoor which is what it's been designed for.
I don't own one, I've never owned one, but I have tried one on and it's really comfortable. More comfortable than any other harness I've worn.

In reply to deacondeacon:


except that its not perfect for anything is it.

I currently use one harness for sport and trad I can wear shorts or trousers. I can change these when they get dirty or if the weather changes. I can remove my harness for comfort say for driving, and I get all that for around £70

In reply to AlanLittle:

I thought the whole reason for using the rope loops rather than belay loop was to allow you to escape the system if necessary to perform a self rescue.

I imagine the forces required to roll a doubled back fig 8 with stopper (or even 2 if you're using double ropes) are probably quite massive.

In reply to gethin_allen:

It's because in many configurations it sends the force directly onto the anchor which is more comfortable than through the harness.

It is safe with a figure of 8 knot. We know it is safe because this is probably the most common setup in the UK, and we're not seeing climbers dying as they get catapulted off belays. The figure of 8 is not cross loaded in a "belaying off the rope loop" configuration.

It has previously been discussed here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1129

In reply to gethin_allen:


This old chestnut keeps popping up ;(

There are two types of climbers, those who can escape the system and those who can't. Those who can will have no problem escaping regardless of where they are belaying from, those who can't need to learn how to escape!