UKC

Mike Cleverdon has been in touch with a round-up of bouldering action from the South West of England, including some impressive first ascents and repeats of his own - completing Pe'ahi 8A at Bonehill Rocks and repeating Super Duper Trooper 8A at Saddle Tor.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69501

In reply to UKC News:

Anything there for mortals?

In reply to UKC News:

The second picture is Super Duper Trooper I would have thought?

Cheers

In reply to Steve nevers:

Hi Steve

Loads for us mere mortals we unearthed a classic font 6c last Saturday and it must be up there with one of the best of its grade on the moor. That was up at Lustleigh where a number of first ascents have been coming in the last couple of weeks. Also there is Bovey Woods where new problems fall daily and some of them are as good as anything on the moor!

Cheers

In reply to Steve nevers:

Loads, see Dave Henderson's Javu website: http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Bonehill/ and http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/CombesheadTor/inde... for example.

In reply to UKC News:

LOADS more easier stuff being done elsewhere on Dartmoor, mostly in the wooded sections. Check out the "The Cowboy Butcher" and "Careless Whisper" in the Nutcrackers section of Lustleigh for starters..

In reply to UKC News:

Here's a link to some of the new and old stuff at Lustleigh. It's a great crag and it's got some of the best quality Rock on the moor.
youtube.com/watch?v=s5M_wpBRiDw&

In reply to UKC News:

Are the photos of the stuff at Bonehill in the dark fairly recent? I was nearby when there was snow on the ground a week or two ago, and thought I saw headtorches bobbing about in a bouldery manner.

In reply to andy south devon:

Nice video Andy, is that recent footage? I.e. are all those problems clean at the moment?

I'd be dead keen for a look, any chance of some more details to help me find the boulders!

In reply to Joe Costello:

Hi

All of the footage on the video was done yesterday as far as I am aware or in the past couple of weeks. We were there yesterday and all are clean.

To be honest as far as the woods go the nutcrackers at Lustleigh is fairly straight forward. Head up the main path and turn left. The UKC access notes should get you there no problem!!

In reply to Macca_7:

Cheers for that. Hopefully I'll head up there on the weekend. Will I be ok on my own with two pads for most of those problems?

In reply to Joe Costello:

You should be fine for most of the problems. A Clockwork Orange, Cowboy Butcher you might want another pad or two more to level out the landings than anything.

The others should be fine I'll have another quick watch of the vid and report back if I think of anything else!

Cheers

In reply to Macca_7:

Cheers for the info. Had a good day out here yesterday, stayed mostly dry despite the random snow and hail! Didn't try much as my skin was thrashed within a couple of hours (as always!) but I will certainly be back soon. Did manage a problem not listed on the UKC database page. On the warm up boulder to the right of micks bulge on the very edge of that face, close to the tree. Really cool problem. Start in break and move up to poor slopers, use these to turn the breaks into an undercut and then dyno/lunge for the top. The dyno move is great fun. Doubtless been done before but I'd say it was better than all the other problems on that wall so well worth sticking on the site. About Font 6bish.