UKC

SCNL mixed conditions?

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 Misha 14 Feb 2015
Does anyone know if the mixed routes in SCNL are in? On the Ben today stuff was well rimed up on the higher crags in Coire an Ciste but that's a lot higher than SCNL...
 Fiona Reid 15 Feb 2015
In reply to Misha:

The cliffs were getting blacker by the hour yesterday, you could see the freezing level moving up as the day went on.... I doubt today's weather will have helped any as it's awfy warm!
drmarten 15 Feb 2015
In reply to Fiona Reid:

Groups on Scabbard Chimney, Dorsal Arete, Forked Gully, Twisting Gully and Crest route today. It was about 7 or 8 degrees at the roadside. Windy on top.
 DaveHK 15 Feb 2015
In reply to Misha:

As far as I'm concerned the steeper routes are not in acceptable nick.
 Tricadam 15 Feb 2015
In reply to Misha:

We climbed Scabbard Chimney today. Turf still frozen and a fair bit of ice - some of it thin though, which added to the challenge. Snowing rather than raining at the end of the day high up. The Coire nan Lochan path is turning into a bit of a slush fest lower down.

By the way, one of our ropes got stuck on the abseil. I reckon the end will be trapped somewhere near the bit where the gully debouches onto the face. Theoother end is dangling forlornly in Broad Gully. If anyone manages to retrieve it, do PM me. My climbing partner would be very happy indeed! Orange DMM Prophet, 60m.
 Jamie B 15 Feb 2015
In reply to adamarchie:
I've never done it but I suspect that it should be possible to traverse leftwards to the ab point from up and right of where Innuendo starts - exposed grade I/II ?
Post edited at 22:32
 Tricadam 16 Feb 2015
In reply to Jamie B:

Yeah, that makes sense. We had similar thoughts, or alternatively downclimbing the easy (and spectacular) gully at the top of Scabbard Chimney, but it was dark and very snowy by that point so we decided to call it a day.

With a thaw in prospect, it may be that no-one is up there soon, in which case perhaps this should be cross posted to the acrimonious tidying up the crags thread!
 Tricadam 16 Feb 2015
In reply to Misha:

BTW the initial short chimney on Scabbard is totally buried at the mo so the first obstacle is the (interesting!) offwidth.

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