UKC

My local climbing wall uses graded circuits. I've been at a fairly monstrous grade plateau for a while. I usually boulder around font 6b/+. So there's a circuit which is problems in the range 6a+ - 6c+ in some ways it's great because it means I can jump on any route, some I can flash, some take some work. But it's usually doable. The down side is I have no metric for improvement. Which im finding rather demoralizing. Any ideas for ways to measure my improvements? (or lack thereof)

In reply to Kemics:

Grades are so randomly assigned that they don't help much. Jump on a real boulder problem you tried last year but couldn't do - you'll find it hard to argue with the answer you get from that test, but any other method I think is too unreliable to help you out.

The best way to improve is to go to a different wall. Sometimes, this backfires.

In reply to Kemics:

When they get reset, how quickly you can get everything ticked is a vague metric to go by. Or how many you can get done in a session etc.

Always going to be difficult having a firm comparison tho that is resilient to problems being set easier or harder or you just getting used to the specific problems.

How about testing yourself against a fingerboard routine? At least there's no hiding place if you're weak....not the be all of climbing but a good baseline.

In reply to Kemics:

As mutley says, if the reset regularly, how many you can get first night is a good way, but prone to suffering from an easy or a hard set one week. But taken over a period of say 6months, if you started off managing 50% of the 6cs but by the end are consistently flash or onsighting say all the 6cs and getting a few 7s done before each reset you know its time to start setting your goals higher

In reply to Kemics:

For me the only way I know for sure I've improved is trying a problem I couldn't / or hardly manage and doing it easily later on. Problem has to be outside (or a wall that doesn't change often, which would not be a good thing I guess).