UKC

Much deference in performance between the two?

In reply to climber34neil:

Newmatic and Classic you can use with some B1 boots since they strap round and if the boot flexes a bit the strap holds it in place. ie Scarpa SLs
cramp o matic you cant because they basically clip on front and back and rely on the rigidity of the boot for the middle. So on a Scarpa SL when it flexes the crampon is likely to spring off.

In reply to climber34neil:

Have used both and no real difference.

Newmatic has the benefit of fitting boots without a front welt.

HTH Davey

In reply to m0unt41n:

Sorry I meant any performance difference if using a b3 rated boot with both?

In reply to climber34neil:

I've used new matic (G14's) on icey Scottish V's no problem. However, I'd probably choose crampomatic for harder steep ice cascades (crampomatic does seem to 'grip' the boot better, giving less vibration).

In reply to climber34neil:

Agree with Mick Taylor, seem to be able to get more leverage and tighter fit with crampomatic.

Not had a problem with B3 and I have to get length extenders because I have big feet / boots which in theory means attachment not so good with distance between front and back quite a bit more.

But I always replace the spring loaded clip on the adjuster with a nut and bolt and usually with dab of epoxy to make sure doesn't come undone. Once had it spring apart (because of the length) just when I didn't want it to and scared the pants off me so now take drastic measures.

In reply to m0unt41n:

Great, thanks all for he reply, very helpful

In reply to climber34neil:
New matic is more versatile, although it is impossible to adjust the front point portrusion. Especially in smaller boot sizes this can be annoying. Not so much of a problem on snow or mixed, although longer front points do make me feel more secure on steep ice.

Related question. How long do people leave bindings from the fastener. Got a new pair of Petzls and it seems pretty secure. Old Monte Rosa's not so much so would tie back round the front bail? Do I cut to say 10cms or leave enough to tie off?

In reply to mackfras:

Not heard of folks tying their crampon straps off on modern crampons, certainly no issues with my grivel ones.

I would cut the strap length so there is sufficient to put them on with gloves and be able to pull tight, then simply tuck the end back under the tightened strap.

HTH Davy

In reply to Mountain Llama:

If I read his site correctly Andy Kirkpatrick recommends double-backing the double rings.

In reply to andrewmcleod:

I personally find having the full strap length very useful, if you are putting them on with gloves on then it means you can wrap them around your gloves and pull hard to tighten them.
This obviously leaves a long excess - I run that up my gaiter i.e. part the Velcro, run it up next to the zip, pat the Velcro back down.
I always found the various other ways of tidying the excess both a faff and less reliable.
I imagine people have already read this on other articles; that crampomatic are more of a pain to put on and in very cold weather or when you have left it a bit late this difference becomes more of an issue. Personally I will stick with crampomatic and thinking about getting them on in time, but there is a strong argument that this binding system doesn't add much.

In reply to andrewmcleod:


I hunted his comments down:

http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/getting_the_right_crampon

TOP TIP

THE DOUBLE RING BUCKLE UP

Most crampon retaining straps these days feature the excellent and durable double ring locking system, whereby the nylon strap passes through both straps and then passes back through between the two, thereby locking it against itself. This system is good because it can’t break, is low bulk and won’t freeze up. The problem is that most users don’t finish this process off by passing the strap back through both loops a second time. This simple manoeuvre stops the strap from loosening over the day, which is common and, therefore, avoids the danger of snagging a crampon point on the strap on the inside of your other foot. If the strap is long enough then it’s also worth tying a knot on the strap after it passes through the heel clip. This means when you pull the strap tight the whole strap can’t just shift around the boot. One other modification is if you’ve got plain double rings that aren’t fitted with pull tabs to make loosening easy, then just fit your own with loops of 10mm abseil tape.

In reply to andrewmcleod:

What does that mean? Less of the quoting and more of the action?

Davey

In reply to Mountain Llama:



Bizarre... What do YOU mean?

In reply to Clauso:

Simply stating something without explaining or giving a link is of little help.

That's what I tried to say......without shouting........

HTH Davey