UKC

I'm planning a family weekend up to Northumberland in May or June, castles, walks etc.
Hoping I might get about 3 hours bouldering into the programme and have never bouldered in the area before.
Venue should ideally be family friendly, good picnic spot perhaps, sheltered from wind, fairly accessible given time constraint and with a good variety of routes up to f7a. Also if possible in the Boulder Britain book, but not essential.

Any advice greatly appreciated - Kyloe in the Woods perhaps?

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Since you said castles, I assume you're heading up the coast and if so Kyloe In fits the bill perfectly.

In reply to JDal:

Yes probably Bamburgh or Dunstanburgh way. Thanks for the shout. Any must-do problems in the mid 6 to low 7 category you'd recommend at Kyloe In?

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Not really bouldered there, too many good places closer to home. I'm sure someone will come along though. It's a lovely spot so long as the family don't wander off and get lost!

In reply to Shapeshifter:

It would be such a shame to come all this way and only sample one of our fantastic crags (certainly one with no views anyway)

Check out the logbook map on here and have a scout about, so many great spots ; Kyloe in / out, Bowden, Back Bowden, Goat, Berryhill, Simonside I could go on, then, there are even more bouldering spots (which i know less about, but im sure others can fill you in on.)

In reply to Shapeshifter:
If you have about 3 hours to kill then Kyloe out/Kyloe in is probably your best bet. Kyloe out being better for bouldering picnics, kyloe in being better for quality of problems (although to be fair they are all excellent).

In the woods:
Monty Python's Flying Circus
Badfinger
Jocks and Geordies
Crucifix Traverse
The Elf

Out the woods:
Overhanging buttress has some good problems under the cave, Roof RH etc
Fir tree buttress has some good problems around the obvious jamming crack (note the tree is cut down, big stump with someone's initials carved in it now)
Prime Time 7a+ if you are feeling strong...

I'd hit kyloe out first, have a picnic, warm up... then you can head directly to Kyloe In via a rough track if you know the way... if not probably best to walk back out, drive along the road and walk back in! If you only have a couple of hours then you'll probably just get the one crag done though.

Or for something completely different how about a picnic on the beach?
http://issuu.com/leerobinson/docs/rumbling_kern/4?e=0

In reply to odox:

Thanks all looks like it's Kyloe then. I'll sort some combination of In and Out to suit the family.
Wish I had more time there

Cheers

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Kyle In has excellent bouldering but is a bit of a walk in - at least 15 minutes each way? Think it can get a bit midge as well? Edge is in the middle of a forest/plantation with no real views.

I think Bowden doors is a much quicker walk in? No trees, but the edge itself can provide shelter depending on wind direction. Views are great, a fine place to be on a nice spring day. I think I would choose this with a family in tow .

In reply to Shapeshifter:

If you're thinking of Kyloe-in, just be aware of access - this happened to us the other day: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=609935

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Thanks Nat - we are trying to get the word out to the community. From what I understand the signs aren't easy to spot...

In reply to Shapeshifter:
Hepburn has an ancient hill fort circle so you can do castles (sort of), nice views, picnicking and bouldering all at once. Though the top out of Northern Soul might make your nearest and dearest somewhat concerned!

In reply to Shapeshifter:

It depends on the weather. Kyloe in is a good bet if it's too windy or if there is the odd bit of rain, the trees often keep the rain off, however if its still it can be a bit smeggy. I wouldn't recommend walking between the Kyloes, you are certain to get lost!!

Bowden, Back Bowden and Hepburn have pleasant outlooks and might be more interesting places to take the family. My wee one loves going to Bowden but finds Kyloe in a bit boring. She loves mucking about on the boulders at Back Bowden too. Hepburn has possibly the best aspect but some bits are a bit steep if your kids are very little...

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Surprised no one has mentioned Shaftoe (near Rothbury) - there's more problems that you can shake a large stick at.
As long as the weathers nice it a good place for a family picnic too.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Someone mentioned cutting through the woods to get between the crags. Please do not do this. If you have gone to Kyloe Out first and the stalkers are out it's dangerous - In reverse it's a monumental thrash! Go in and out the correct way and check there's no stalkers sign on the gate.

Cheers

Steve