UKC

Hi everybody, in the first days of march we'll spend few days around Edinburgh just before to go to the Ben Nevis..so we'd like to do some UK traditional rock climbing there! any suggestion about it! ..i think maximum a couple hours driving the city..
Thanks so much in advance!

In reply to Dafer4:

Hi,
The climbing's not particularly special nearby to Edinburgh, but there is some single-pitch fun to be had at trad venues like:

The Souter - a sea cliff, with a good stack, an hour's drive to the south
Limekilns - short, polished, but good quality (anciently) quarried limestone
Aberdour/Hawkcraig - a very accessible semi-tidal sea cliff, with good routes in the lower grades
Traprain Law - very polished, but with good easy routes in a nice setting
Northumberland crags - lots of very short, but good quality sandstone trad routes, two hours drive south
Dunkeld - An excellent roadside schist crag, about two hours'drive north.

If it's fairly dry, all the above should be fine to climb in March. There's more info on them in the database on here.

Enjoy,
D.

In reply to DannyC:

Thank you very much for the info!

In reply to DannyC: Is Ratho quarry not worth a look? I always drive passed on the way to the inlaws but thought I might pop in one day.

In reply to Dafer4:

Forget about the crags mentioned above - the best ones within 2 hours of you are either Kyloe (out) or Bowden Doors - and by some:

http://thenmc.org.uk/onlineguide/index.php?v=4&s=6&id=7
http://www.thenmc.org.uk/onlineguide/index.php?v=3&s=3&sid=5&id...

In reply to Mike Stretford:

Yes Mike, it is. I should have mentioned it. Less scenic than the others, but some very worthwhile routes.

D.

In reply to Dafer4:

Aye, dont forget the lowlands speciality Dolerite! Ratho, Auchinstarry and Cambusbarron all have good trad routes. Quick drying and often sheltered too. 'Starry and Cambu both doable by train, Ratho cycleable from Edinburgh, and has the EICA if it rains...
Worth mentioning that the rock at the Souter should be approached with care, especially on the main stack. The area generally will tend to be cold and damp this time of year I would think. Ideal preparation for the Ben
Traprain very pleasant for lower grades, but exposed so pick a calm sunny day (same goes for the Hawcraig)
Polney Crag (lower grades) and Upper Cave crag at Dunkeld are the closest crags with a highland feel. You can get there in just over an hour.
If the weather gets driech in Scotland, Northumberland often holds a dry microclimate, so good as a backup, but its sandstone so give it a couple of days after rain to dry out
Enjoy!

In reply to Dr Toph:

ok! thank you very much!now we have some options to think about!
..and i keep to profit by you..what about a good book for a tourist?

In reply to Dafer4:

Ratho Quarry and Cambusbarron Quarry are excellent.

In reply to Dafer4:

The only book for lowland trad climbing is SMC Lowland Outcrops
Get in touch if the conditions are good and you would like a local guide

In reply to Dafer4:

It seems a bit of a waste to travel all the way from Italy to Scotland and then go climbing in a bl00dy quarry!

Of the suggestions made above, Aberdour is a lovely spot on a nice day, with views across the Forth to Edinburgh. It's also easily accessible from Edinburgh by train. Dunkeld has a more 'highland' feel to it, and can also be reached by train (although the crag is a bit of a hike from the station). Traprain Law is an interesting place but the climbing is a bit disappointing IMO. Limekilns is unusual, and makes an interesting venue for local climbers but might not really be worth the trip for a visitor from abroad (and of course it is, technically, a quarry!)

Kyloe and Bowden are a bit of a drudge to get to from Edinburgh IMO, although the scenery is pleasant enough for the passengers in the car. I always felt Kyloe to be a bit enclosed: the views of the surrounding countryside are rather restricted unless you're at the top.

As has already been said, the guide book for the crags nearby to Edinburgh is the SMC's Lowland Outcrops. For Dunkeld, though, it's Highland Outcrops (it appears as "Craig a Barns" in the index to the edition I have).

In reply to Dafer4:

And if you are staying in Edinburgh, and just want to have an half an hour or an hour play on some rock, you could do worse than head to Salisbury crags. Climbing is only allowed in the south quarry, and it's bouldering, but it's good if you are visiting.

In reply to Dafer4:

of course i know edinbourgh is not one of the world wide most famous rock climbing destination but we have to wait for some friends there for a couple of days..so we are doing some tourism! thank you again!

In reply to Dafer4:

North ?Berwick Law is good fun, sunny, and near to Embra...but it's BOLTS! Dr Toph would be too polite to say so, but there's a Sport climbing book called 7a Max with lots of suitable SPORTS venues in Angus region where it never rains, ever.
Otherwise, Aberdour, Limekilns, Dunkekd as mentioned above. Dunkekd is driest.

If it's raining, go to Ratho, the biggest indoor wall ever, which is freezing. 10 miles from Edin centre. Or friendlier feeling local wall Alien Rock by seaside is bus routes, local pub next door, and have better coffee.

Last word - Northumberland as mentioned above.