UKC

UK rock: first ascents in 1965?

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 SteveM 20 Feb 2015
What good rock climbs saw their first ascents in 1965? (And are still standing to go do again this year). First ascent, first free, whatever...
 scott titt 20 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

A good day out to be had at Subluminal with Tony Willmott routes from 1965
Paralysis Paralysis (E2 5c)
The Grobbler The Grobbler (E1 5b)
Baboon Baboon (HVS 5b)
Grandma's Groove Grandma's Groove (E2 5c)
Philatus Philatus (E3 5c)
Stroof Stroof (E1 5c)
and
Puffin Puffin (VS 5a) was also climbed in 1965

elsewhere
Diamond Solitaire Diamond Solitaire (VS 4c)
and
Perygl Perygl (E4 6a)
stand out.

Of course in 1965 Brown (especially with Claude Davies), Pete Crew, Rowland Edwards and many others were busy!
In reply to SteveM:

Black Spring, Dinas Mot
 Postmanpat 20 Feb 2015
In reply to scott titt:

Finale Groove,
Directors Groove
Heidelberg Creature
Lightning Wall

Can anyone remember whether it was a bad weather year? Very little done North of Swanage it seems!!
 scott titt 20 Feb 2015
In reply to Postmanpat:

Finale Groove, 1966
Directors Groove 1966
Heidelberg Creature 1966
Lightning Wall 1966
 Postmanpat 20 Feb 2015
In reply to scott titt:

> Finale Groove, 1966

> Directors Groove 1966

> Heidelberg Creature 1966

> Lightning Wall 1966

Whoops. Missed the change of year! So1965 must have been a really crap weather year!
 Michael Gordon 20 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

Auld Nick (Hells Lum) is a fine easy route
 Marq 20 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

Steve - looks like we might have to do a trip down to Swanage. Luckily my old guidebooks should still be valid for routes done in 1965!

Marq
 deepstar 20 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

Consolation in Cheddar Gorge. First Ascent on August the 2nd 1965 by R.S. Dearman and R. Toogood a real classic.
 Dave Garnett 20 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

It really does seem to have been a thin year; almost nothing at Bosigran or Chair Ladder even.

However, how about Suspense and Earl of Perth at Avon? You can even use a point of aid on Earl of Perth.
 Dave Garnett 20 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

Synapse, Gribin Facet.
 stevieb 20 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

Queersville is the most famous one I found on a quick guidebook browse
 Mick Ward 20 Feb 2015
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> You can even use a point of aid on Earl of Perth.

Can't imagine how I missed that.

Suppose the odd skyhook would be entering into the spirit of things...

Mick

 Mick Ward 20 Feb 2015
In reply to stevieb:

> Queersville is the most famous one I found on a quick guidebook browse

Scraping the barrel surely.

A few years ago, we had the 50th anniversary of the FA of Great Wall. A sterling year for Crew. Typically nobody on here seemed to give a hoot.

O tempora, o mores...

Mick
In reply to SteveM:

Praying Mantis and Daedalus in Borrowdale.
 Ron Kenyon 21 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

Holy Ghost - East Buttress

Last Laugh - Castle Rock (another Chris B route - following The Medlar and Totalitarian in 1964)

Man of Straw (White Ghyll)

The Balrog (Dow)
 stevieb 21 Feb 2015
In reply to Mick Ward:
I suppose it might be a bit of a step down the year after the centenary of Central Buttress, but I'm sure it will see plenty of commemorative ascents
 Mick Ward 21 Feb 2015
In reply to stevieb:

A really lovely article by Claire Jane Carter:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6392

Centenaries are centenaries; they jog our memories, so cluttered by the day to day. It would be great to think of people doing CB and sparing a thought for a generation, from all sides, that perished terribly on the Western Front.

Somehow we have to get beyond war; not easy.

Mick
 Michael Gordon 23 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

Interesting question - made me look through a few guides!

Quite a few good ones from Skye:
The Snake (HVS)
The Asp (E2)
Con's Cleft (E1)

... and Etive Slabs:
Attila (E3)
Valkyrie (E2)

 Ian Parsons 23 Feb 2015
In reply to deepstar:

> Consolation in Cheddar Gorge. First Ascent on August the 2nd 1965 by R.S. Dearman and R. Toogood a real classic.

Coronation Street is generally thought to be quite good as well!

Not sure about Consolation, though; there seems to be a selection of FA dates on offer. The two Diadem South West Climbs editions have 1965. Dick Broomhead's 1977 Cordee edition says 2nd August 1966, as do Martin's two CC editions (his later Cheddar Gorge Climbs doesn't include Consolation); New Climbs 1968 also agrees with this. I don't have the more recent RockFax and CC selected guides, so no idea there. Bob Dearman's own guide, the red-covered 30p 1970 edition, suggests in its historical summary that the route dates from the winter of 1966/67. So take your pick! I would think the most likely scenario is that 2/8/66 is correct, and that Dearman's recollection a few years later is approximate.
 Dave Garnett 23 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

There are a few at Chudleigh, including Gagool, the Spider and the Fly (although some the individual pitches were climbed earlier).
 Bulls Crack 23 Feb 2015
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Beat me to it! Coronation Street's going to take some beating
In reply to Ian Parsons:

>I would think the most likely scenario is that 2/8/66 is correct, and that Dearman's recollection a few years later is approximate.

Or alternatively that winter had already set in down the Gorge by early August in 1966. This would be pretty normal in my experience.

jcm

 Ian Parsons 24 Feb 2015
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Entirely possible, John! What hadn't occurred to me at the time is that even back in the 1960s, before the later access problems had arisen, there was a fairly strong idea that climbing at Cheddar was an activity best restricted to the winter months, or at the very least not at weekends and other times of heightened tourist popularity; the access notes in the 1970 guide include this recommendation, together with a general note about loose rock, vegetation and risk to third parties. It's quite likely, therefore, that people were already cataloguing their activities in terms of particular winter seasons - 1965/66, 1966/67, etc - rather than whole years; and if one was fortunate/cunning/low key enough to climb something at a more temperate time of year it was probably simply regarded as "late" in one season or "early" in the next. With Consolation being set back at some distance from the road, well away from the show caves, and 2/8/66 being a tuesday, it was no doubt considered a much safer proposition than doing something further down the gorge at a different time of the week.
 Dave Garnett 24 Feb 2015
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Wasn't Consolation climbed after a retreat from a wash-out in the Dolomites? I suspect it wasn't a winter aid-climbing trip, back in those days. Not that that helps confirm the year unless someone has the weather records for the Dolomites in the mid-60s handy.
OP SteveM 25 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

Thanks all - some really good routes and ideas in here. The question came from this year being 50 years of the Leeds Mountaineering Club - so we are looking for commerative activities.

Any more suggestions welcome, especially those local to the grit or yorkshire limestone

 jcw 27 Feb 2015
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Well I had some very good climbing in late July to mid August 1966 in the Dolomites, though caught by the usual storms. 2. 8 66 did the S ridge of ring finger on Funfungerspitz in dubious weather. But the latter part of the season was pretty awful. The first week of August 1965 also produced 4 good routes for me there. Don't remember seeing Bob Toogood around the place while we were there, on either occasion, though that doesn't mean much. Denny Moorhouse and George Homer were the current British Dolomites stars of the time.


 Kafoozalem 27 Feb 2015
In reply to SteveM:

The Spider (E1 5b) *** - Frank Cannings SW masterpiece at Chudleigh.
 Dave Garnett 28 Feb 2015
In reply to jcw:

> The first week of August 1965 also produced 4 good routes for me there.

So, that seems to support the August 1966 date for Consolation being correct.


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