UKC

Is Aiguille Verte, Couturier Couloir doable in late spring/early summer?

going to mont blanc massif in the summer, really want to get Aiguille Verte ticked.

Thoughs?

In reply to Somerville:

Yes, normally.


Make sure you pay as much attention to getting off the Verte as 'getting it ticked' - there is no easy or trivial descent.


Not as serious as the Aiguille Blanche, but still pretty serious. The couloir is LONG!

In reply to Somerville:

If you simply want to tick the Verte, then I would have thought the Whymper Couloir (if in condition)or Moine Ridge would be a surer/less serious choice since your descent route is the same way so you are less committed and can bail at any time on known ground (assuming you weren't planning to descend the Coutourier).

In reply to Simon4:

having come down the Whymper in late afternoon/early evening, with whistling rocks and sloughing snow, I would agree there. In hindsight we might have waited at the top for it to re-freeze, but we were out of food/water, low on clothing and energy!

In reply to Somerville:

Yes, i do want the tick as in it looks like a wonderful ascent via the Couturier Couloir route. Ive heard its a long old day with the decent being a tricky one. I get the general conscientious is to descend by Whymper Couloir?

I have done up to AD+ and a couple of D rated routes, though i climb WI 3 - 4, im thinking that's fine for the ascent up?

Thanks for all the feedback.

In reply to Somerville:

you need to be comfortable running it out (protect your belays with some early gear, then get going) whilst climbing at that angle, with a lot of space beneath your feet! As much depends on your partner and if you are equals, so that you can move fast on the less steep bits and lead through(faster stance admin). Fitness is more critical, then you can simply motor along.

Do the Aig d Moine (otherside of the Verte) as an acclimatiser, you'll get a good view of your decent and there are a few reasonable rock lines on it to enjoy at the same time.

In reply to Somerville:


Yes, but if you are not descending it really pretty early in the day you stand a good chance of getting killed by stonefall, so be conscientious in getting a very early start and be confident of climbing quick enough or be prepared to bivi at the top. I once bivied near the top of the Verte and still nearly got killed by stonefall descending the Whymper.

In reply to Robert Durran:

when we went down early evening, sun was not on it, temp was low, but not everything had frozen back in place. There was nothing big coming at us, but I think in hindsight we were lucky. But we did come down it pretty quickly(didn't want to miss food at the hut), which may have been our saving grace.

In reply to Somerville:

You are supposed to be at the top of they Whymper by 8 in the morning in order to descend it. There is also a nerve racking knife-edge (and I REALLY mean knife-edge), snow crest from the summit to the top to of the Whymper, which is very imposing and requires sure cramponing.

Normally the Moine arrete is suggested as the late in the day descent, though that also starts with a steep snow crest, which will also have been in the sun all day. It is also quite complex and not obvious to follow in descent if you have not climbed it. There is said to be an abseil line on the Grande Rocheuse forming the right (East) side of the Whymper, but I do not know how to locate it.

There is quite a good argument for bivying on the very summit snow if you are late in the day, and waiting for early the next morning to descend.

In reply to Simon4:

Cheers simon. stuff to think about, sounds extremely committing yet brilliant. sounds like a 3am breakfast! cant wait to get to mont blanc.

In reply to Somerville:


Try half past midnight, probably from the base of the couloir.

In reply to Simon4:

Yeah no way 3am breakfast! I agree, much earlier needed...

In reply to Simon4:


The first time I climbed the Verte (when not at all experienced - second alps trip) we went up and down the Moine Ridge. Apart from the bergschrund it was fine and of course there were no route finding problems in descent. If the summit tick is the most important thing, then this might be the safest bet. It was 32 years ago, so the state of the route might be different now.

In reply to Simon4:


Yes, this would be a delightful, relatively stress free way of doing it if it is planned and the weather is sure. Just don't do it after an epic 27 hour day when you are too knackered to think straight enough to set up the abseils safely........

In reply to Simon4:

Try as soon as the snow is freezing......... the worst that could happen is waiting for the sunrise on the summit!

In reply to Robert Durran:


or when you get too cold to wait any longer, probably or 9 or 10pm!!

In reply to Somerville:

Look, it's a very boring route, and if you really want to do it (as I have) then it's much better done in winter or spring. (In my case, early March.) Then it will be safe. But boring. Honestly. There are far better ways up the Verte in summer.

In reply to Robert Durran:

I have only ever been down it - twice, so that may well explain my feeling that it is confusing. I recall Luca giving a description of the correct route that seemed to have little similarity to what we did on either occasion.

In reply to Simon4:


I'm sure it is confusing in descent! We sort of followed our noses and the description up without major problems and then reversed the way we had come.

In reply to David Rose:

What would you suggest?

In reply to Somerville:

the Sans Nom Ridge is a great route on the aiguille verte, more varied climbing than the Couturier. the couloir giving access to the ridge was in excellent condition when I was there, but in bad conditions ( too dry) that could be tricky, so better check beforehand.

In reply to Somerville:

I second the Sans Nom ridge.