In reply to planetmarshall:
> No not at all, just that it's easier to save 30 secs by having a slick transition (assuming it's pretty crap to begin with) than it is to save the same amount by being fitter - particularly when so little separates elite competitors.
The solution is to have both, slick admin and fitness. 30secs!!??, I've seen people on stances who could save 15mins every pitch. Jackets on/off, drinks, photo, swap some gear, tighten a boot.... endless list. Sometimes you will be a bit too hot sometimes cool, just cope then have a mad 5 mins at either the top or bottom, drink as you dress/tighten/photo/pass gear.... 1-2 hours saved instantly. Folk often have no plan with their second, on how they'll swing leads, lead through, do 3 straight leads then swap... so much can be planned in the hut the evening before.
Especially in France it's often a race off the phrique to the bottom of some routes, I often thrash up the first pitch or two, with much of my gear not quite right, or even in the bag, just taking what I will need immediately etc. then progressively sort as I go, much better than getting stuck behind a slow party with poor admin and not really able to climb the grade efficiently.
Post edited at 16:54