UKC

Planning to climb Tues / Wed next week - thinking Lochnagar for some of the classic grade 5 gullies. Has anyone got any up to date info on conditions.

Was also thinking Sticil Face might be worth a punt - saw it got an ascent this week but no comment on conditions.

Many thanks

Mike

In reply to kenneM:

Was in yesterday. The main corrie was pretty buried in fresh snow, lots more than I'd expected. Many cornices, and some fairly big recent avalanches. We didn't want to venture near any of it.

By contrast the far left of the Southern Sector was totally scoured, everything left of Perseverance Wall was barely white at all, not in nick by any stretch.

The only section of Perseverance Wall not threatened by large cornices was the Perseverance Rib area. Looked pretty much the only sensible option in the corrie on the day. We did some combination of Perseverance Rib and The Vice, I'm still not clear which bits of which, but it was good.

It was thawing late afternoon on the walk-out. If it's warm up there today I'd guess there'll be a fair amount of stuff on the move. Wait for a good thaw/freeze before you go near any of the gullies

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

Thanks for the info

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

Hi Dan! Nice to meet you yesterday. As you saw, we did a new 3-pitch IV, 5 not yet named on the left side of Perseverance Wall, and then a 2-pitch runnel/groove on the next buttress left, which Simon thought had probably already been done. It was IIIish. Brilliant easy route, reassuringly un-steep, with loads of good turf and lovely hooks. It would be a good one for a guide to take beginners up.

In reply to Tim Chappell:

And you Tim. Well done for finding anything worthwhile to do further left, guess you were in good company there! I've a pic of you both on your new IV,5 i'll email

In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

cheers for that!

In reply to kenneM:

Anyone been up there the last couple days? Any chance of climbing there this weekend?

In reply to MSchobitz:

Depends on the big thaw predicted for sat...

In reply to MSchobitz:

It was in great condition on Monday. Did Polyphemous in nice conditions. I did involve quite a lot of digging but the snow was quite stable for the most part.

All rather irrelevant though, as post above says there are some 'high' thawing temps on the way form Thurs.