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UKC Fit Club Week 415
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=609973
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video of the week:
youtube.com/watch?v=sxWev0htAMA&
Not new, but you can't go wrong with a bit of Wide Boyz!
Last week's posters:
AJM - Still keeping the climbing tape manufacturers in business?
Exile - Well done on the VI 7 lead!
mrchewy - Progress on the injuries?
Nick Russell - wonky shoulders.
mbh - How was the off-road event?
hms - Consistent training. Are you starting a taper for the trip yet?
mattrm - Was the coaching good?
Mutl3y - 29 pull-ups and +24kg is a lot! It's certainly not a weakness in terms of improving climbing.
Ian Rock - How's the movement course?
JayK - Nice Font ticklist!
Lancer - Soloing VS and bouldering V4 puts you well on the way to your E1 goal
Ally Smith - Progress on Fisheye? I saw some photos of Oliana from Rob Greenwood the other day - looks like a great place.
Tyler - 2 climbing sessions + 1 fingerboard + 2 bike sessions isn't such a bad week... Back to normal this week?
Dandan82 - Good news on the finger and elbow, and sounds like you crushed the audition!
The Ex-Engineer - Back to rock season now?
flopsicle - Lots of dispruption... put it down as a rest week and come back stronger.
Kevster - If a grit HVS feels like a chop route, it probably is... Did you get out yesterday?
0.5viking - Good to see some progress on the bouldering.
Humperdink - Well done in the National XC! The start of that race looked mental, don't know how you manage to fight your way to the front in that scrum!
Joughton - Well done in BUCS!
Joyce - Back on the training? I always feel very fit after skiing/snowboarding for a week, but I find it doesn't transfer well to climbing.
Creedence - Ever closer to that 7a onsight, you'll get it soon.
Just Tintin - Well done qualifying for WBL finals! Shame you can't make it.
Luke Owens - Grit is an acquired taste, sounds like you didn't pick the best day for it. I'm also curious: what's an atomic push up?
Willi Crater - 2000 calories/day doesn't sound excessive. Is that some kind of 'net calorie' calculation?
biscuit - Keep putting in the short sessions while work is busy. It doesn't take much to maintain a level.
Spring seems to be well on it's way, at least it does today here in Bristol. I hope everyone's looking forward to getting back on rock!
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=609973
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video of the week:
youtube.com/watch?v=sxWev0htAMA&
Not new, but you can't go wrong with a bit of Wide Boyz!
Last week's posters:
AJM - Still keeping the climbing tape manufacturers in business?
Exile - Well done on the VI 7 lead!
mrchewy - Progress on the injuries?
Nick Russell - wonky shoulders.
mbh - How was the off-road event?
hms - Consistent training. Are you starting a taper for the trip yet?
mattrm - Was the coaching good?
Mutl3y - 29 pull-ups and +24kg is a lot! It's certainly not a weakness in terms of improving climbing.
Ian Rock - How's the movement course?
JayK - Nice Font ticklist!
Lancer - Soloing VS and bouldering V4 puts you well on the way to your E1 goal
Ally Smith - Progress on Fisheye? I saw some photos of Oliana from Rob Greenwood the other day - looks like a great place.
Tyler - 2 climbing sessions + 1 fingerboard + 2 bike sessions isn't such a bad week... Back to normal this week?
Dandan82 - Good news on the finger and elbow, and sounds like you crushed the audition!
The Ex-Engineer - Back to rock season now?
flopsicle - Lots of dispruption... put it down as a rest week and come back stronger.
Kevster - If a grit HVS feels like a chop route, it probably is... Did you get out yesterday?
0.5viking - Good to see some progress on the bouldering.
Humperdink - Well done in the National XC! The start of that race looked mental, don't know how you manage to fight your way to the front in that scrum!
Joughton - Well done in BUCS!
Joyce - Back on the training? I always feel very fit after skiing/snowboarding for a week, but I find it doesn't transfer well to climbing.
Creedence - Ever closer to that 7a onsight, you'll get it soon.
Just Tintin - Well done qualifying for WBL finals! Shame you can't make it.
Luke Owens - Grit is an acquired taste, sounds like you didn't pick the best day for it. I'm also curious: what's an atomic push up?
Willi Crater - 2000 calories/day doesn't sound excessive. Is that some kind of 'net calorie' calculation?
biscuit - Keep putting in the short sessions while work is busy. It doesn't take much to maintain a level.
Spring seems to be well on it's way, at least it does today here in Bristol. I hope everyone's looking forward to getting back on rock!
I did some trad climbing this week, for the first time since about September! Mostly pegged-up Avon trad, but I did place 4 pieces of gear.
M - Gym. Did some deadlifts following last week's discussions on posterior chain.
T - TCA. A bit lacking in focus (and strength). Haven't done much bouldering for ages.
W - 6.5km run, steady. Shins a little uncomfortable but nothing to worry about really.
T - UCR. Didn't do much really, one more go at the green 7b. Should go at some point.
F - Avon. Climbed Peryl on Main Wall (I led P2). Great route! Also repeated Rancho on the ramp.
S - UCR with hms. Flashed a 7a, tried the 7b again, and a 7b+. All felt hard, tired from Friday.
S - 6km run, steady.
It was good to get on Peryl. It's bird-banned now until July so got in there just in time! That's one ticked off my Avon list and a nice confidence boost for E4 6a.
Goals
Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
2-finger (front and middle) repeaters on BM1000 small pockets
Managed 6x6/4 on middle 2. Front 2 still seems a way off
Tick off some of the harder Avon trad that I've not got round to yet
Peryl -> Think Pink, GT Special, Amanita, Low Profile, Central Wall, Main Wall Elimate
More winter grade VI
I'll leave this up for another month but not too confident that I'll get out again this season.
Sort out the asymmetry
A bit of an ongoing thing
M - Gym. Did some deadlifts following last week's discussions on posterior chain.
T - TCA. A bit lacking in focus (and strength). Haven't done much bouldering for ages.
W - 6.5km run, steady. Shins a little uncomfortable but nothing to worry about really.
T - UCR. Didn't do much really, one more go at the green 7b. Should go at some point.
F - Avon. Climbed Peryl on Main Wall (I led P2). Great route! Also repeated Rancho on the ramp.
S - UCR with hms. Flashed a 7a, tried the 7b again, and a 7b+. All felt hard, tired from Friday.
S - 6km run, steady.
It was good to get on Peryl. It's bird-banned now until July so got in there just in time! That's one ticked off my Avon list and a nice confidence boost for E4 6a.
Goals
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
Managed 6x6/4 on middle 2. Front 2 still seems a way off
Peryl -> Think Pink, GT Special, Amanita, Low Profile, Central Wall, Main Wall Elimate
I'll leave this up for another month but not too confident that I'll get out again this season.
A bit of an ongoing thing
In reply to Nick Russell:
I saw you'd done Peryl, happy memories of doing that. I found p1 pretty nails and was quite looking forwards to the blunt end on p2, but that wasn't quite how it turned out!
The only E4 I've done with 2 actual hard pitches on it (there's only one other, to be fair, Grand Alliance, which has an easier main pitch and is also less sustained an outing)...
I saw you'd done Peryl, happy memories of doing that. I found p1 pretty nails and was quite looking forwards to the blunt end on p2, but that wasn't quite how it turned out!
The only E4 I've done with 2 actual hard pitches on it (there's only one other, to be fair, Grand Alliance, which has an easier main pitch and is also less sustained an outing)...
In reply to AJM:
And I was v glad that I persuaded you to nobly lead P2 as well as P1 - as I said in my logbook comment, I can't udge! And it did mean that you got the full tick after all.
And I was v glad that I persuaded you to nobly lead P2 as well as P1 - as I said in my logbook comment, I can't udge! And it did mean that you got the full tick after all.
In reply to Nick Russell:
thanks Nick. Tapering, well sort of!
M - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Back to back pairs. Ticked a 7a+ I'd been trying for a while. Failed on another high up due to being unable to clip (missing 2 is frowned upon I think!). Tried a 7b+ but it was an ex comp route so easy,easy,easy,utter nails.
T - cycle commute. Cycled on to UCR, bouldered then did a few circuits to finish. Have worked out how to get from 4/5 to 6 on the 7a+ (hah!) circuit. There is no subtlety, one just has to hurl to a crimp. Nasty.
W - taxi service so no cycling. S&C x 3
T - day change at work, so had a long session on TCA. Still closed down by the greens. Blacks being reset, so did the 12 new ones, quite hard inc a couple of ~v4. Only 1 I couldn't do - large 2 handed sloper before the top which I couldn't stick, even after a psychological brush!
F - cycle commute, 3 mile walk, S&C x 3
S - UCR routes in singles with Nick. Dozen routes. Ticked a 7a (easy but v scary, all in the clipping), tried the 7b+ again. Finished with a nice little 6c6c6b triple to get a pump.
S - Redpoint. Ticked the horrid 6c I'd failed on last visit, onsighted another, generally took things a bit easy & had fun.
So, the taper. I fly out to CB on Fri and will be climbing that day. 4 days between now & then. So should I aim to have another bimble session of some sort, or just do a bit of S&C?
thanks Nick. Tapering, well sort of!
M - cycle commute. UCR in evening. Back to back pairs. Ticked a 7a+ I'd been trying for a while. Failed on another high up due to being unable to clip (missing 2 is frowned upon I think!). Tried a 7b+ but it was an ex comp route so easy,easy,easy,utter nails.
T - cycle commute. Cycled on to UCR, bouldered then did a few circuits to finish. Have worked out how to get from 4/5 to 6 on the 7a+ (hah!) circuit. There is no subtlety, one just has to hurl to a crimp. Nasty.
W - taxi service so no cycling. S&C x 3
T - day change at work, so had a long session on TCA. Still closed down by the greens. Blacks being reset, so did the 12 new ones, quite hard inc a couple of ~v4. Only 1 I couldn't do - large 2 handed sloper before the top which I couldn't stick, even after a psychological brush!
F - cycle commute, 3 mile walk, S&C x 3
S - UCR routes in singles with Nick. Dozen routes. Ticked a 7a (easy but v scary, all in the clipping), tried the 7b+ again. Finished with a nice little 6c6c6b triple to get a pump.
S - Redpoint. Ticked the horrid 6c I'd failed on last visit, onsighted another, generally took things a bit easy & had fun.
So, the taper. I fly out to CB on Fri and will be climbing that day. 4 days between now & then. So should I aim to have another bimble session of some sort, or just do a bit of S&C?
In reply to hms:
Taper does not equal bimble! Volume down about 50% but it's all the easy stuff that goes - should leave you with short but intense sessions.
You want to give your body the message that it's all systems go very soon, not that it can take the foot off the gas pedal.
Balance this, of course, with skin conservation!
Hope this helps,
Andy
Taper does not equal bimble! Volume down about 50% but it's all the easy stuff that goes - should leave you with short but intense sessions.
You want to give your body the message that it's all systems go very soon, not that it can take the foot off the gas pedal.
Balance this, of course, with skin conservation!
Hope this helps,
Andy
In reply to Nick Russell:
"If a grit HVS feels like a chop route, it probably is..." Great comment that Nick!
The dodgy knee - got an appointment for an MRI on the 13th of this month. The Diclofenic the Doc prescribed has worked wonders, saw the physio too and it's just heat and stretch from now on with regards to the adductor.
Had to rethink my goals -
STG - Sort my breathing.
MTG - Work on momentum during the summer.
LTG - Redpoint some stuff in Spain.
Mon - Saw the Doc about the left knee - he ordered an MRI, prescribed anti-flams. Icing etc.
Tue - 3hr session at Kendal wall with John Kettle. In the boulder room.
Wed - 3hrs session with John again but on a rope.
Thu - Rest day.
Fri - Saw physio - ouch. Adductor is getting there. Drugs are good for you.
Sat - Redpoint Birmingham. Ha. Really friendly, cheap drinks but the setting was interesting. Won't bother again. The bouldering area was pretty funky.
Sun - Pinnacle. Routes, easy stuff trying to understand the Kettle sessions and their application to what I've been doing. Boulder room for the same reason.
It's been an enlightening week and the more I think about and reason upon the sessions with Mr Kettle - the more optimistic I am. One on one with him, driving to Kendal, a hostel, it all adds up but it's been a worthwhile investment already. He has a great way about him, rather than saying this is right, do this, not that, he enables you to listen yourself to what's happening whilst you climb. It felt like a session of discovery rather than one of instruction, almost like I was finding my own failings rather than being told what they were.
The things I do well - My footwork, same side flagging, he thought I was plenty strong enough for the goals I have and also that I knew how to train myself.
The things to work on - Initiating movement by use of the core and using that momentum to finish the move on a straight arm. Breathing!!! I hadn't realised how much I hold my breath, it's diabolical and no surprise I get pumped when doing routes. I hold my breath for maybe 5 or 6 hand movements around the crux, also if I'm pondering moves. I hold my breath the whole way when downclimbing in the boulder room... I was shocked today when checking it out on stuff I use to do laps. There was a host of other stuff too to be honest but nothing too major.
I can honestly say I learnt more about technique in six hours than I have in the past three years, there was a raft of movement stuff I don't think I'd have ever happened upon for a long time otherwise. The pleasing thing was the stuff I have trained, like my footwork, is up to muster and now I know what I need to do, it's just a matter of working away to get improvement. I can do a lot of this with the rope on easy stuff or rainbowing around and it shouldn't affect trying to get stronger at the same time.
It's like a bit of a veil has been lifted and I'm feeling pretty psyched to sort stuff - I've been such a donut with the breathing!
"If a grit HVS feels like a chop route, it probably is..." Great comment that Nick!
The dodgy knee - got an appointment for an MRI on the 13th of this month. The Diclofenic the Doc prescribed has worked wonders, saw the physio too and it's just heat and stretch from now on with regards to the adductor.
Had to rethink my goals -
STG - Sort my breathing.
MTG - Work on momentum during the summer.
LTG - Redpoint some stuff in Spain.
Mon - Saw the Doc about the left knee - he ordered an MRI, prescribed anti-flams. Icing etc.
Tue - 3hr session at Kendal wall with John Kettle. In the boulder room.
Wed - 3hrs session with John again but on a rope.
Thu - Rest day.
Fri - Saw physio - ouch. Adductor is getting there. Drugs are good for you.
Sat - Redpoint Birmingham. Ha. Really friendly, cheap drinks but the setting was interesting. Won't bother again. The bouldering area was pretty funky.
Sun - Pinnacle. Routes, easy stuff trying to understand the Kettle sessions and their application to what I've been doing. Boulder room for the same reason.
It's been an enlightening week and the more I think about and reason upon the sessions with Mr Kettle - the more optimistic I am. One on one with him, driving to Kendal, a hostel, it all adds up but it's been a worthwhile investment already. He has a great way about him, rather than saying this is right, do this, not that, he enables you to listen yourself to what's happening whilst you climb. It felt like a session of discovery rather than one of instruction, almost like I was finding my own failings rather than being told what they were.
The things I do well - My footwork, same side flagging, he thought I was plenty strong enough for the goals I have and also that I knew how to train myself.
The things to work on - Initiating movement by use of the core and using that momentum to finish the move on a straight arm. Breathing!!! I hadn't realised how much I hold my breath, it's diabolical and no surprise I get pumped when doing routes. I hold my breath for maybe 5 or 6 hand movements around the crux, also if I'm pondering moves. I hold my breath the whole way when downclimbing in the boulder room... I was shocked today when checking it out on stuff I use to do laps. There was a host of other stuff too to be honest but nothing too major.
I can honestly say I learnt more about technique in six hours than I have in the past three years, there was a raft of movement stuff I don't think I'd have ever happened upon for a long time otherwise. The pleasing thing was the stuff I have trained, like my footwork, is up to muster and now I know what I need to do, it's just a matter of working away to get improvement. I can do a lot of this with the rope on easy stuff or rainbowing around and it shouldn't affect trying to get stronger at the same time.
It's like a bit of a veil has been lifted and I'm feeling pretty psyched to sort stuff - I've been such a donut with the breathing!
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing fit club Nick, and thanks re Cutlass, pleased with the lead and the winter as a whole so far.
Aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr road run, (winter endurance)
T: 1hr 20min PE and core at the wall
W: Rest
T: 45min continual dry tooling (ARC and winter technique
F: Rest
S: 40min fell run, (winter endurance) felt hard going
S: 1hr 15min PE and core at wall
A good week.
Thanks for doing fit club Nick, and thanks re Cutlass, pleased with the lead and the winter as a whole so far.
Aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr road run, (winter endurance)
T: 1hr 20min PE and core at the wall
W: Rest
T: 45min continual dry tooling (ARC and winter technique
F: Rest
S: 40min fell run, (winter endurance) felt hard going
S: 1hr 15min PE and core at wall
A good week.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Certainly am!
Monday - wall. Bouldering, did some relatively tricky problems. Then onto rings. 3x12 push-ups into rings. 3x5-6 tucked front lever pullups - could feel Sunday in my back so poorer. 3x3 extension into L-sit eccentrics, focusing on keeping it slow and controlled. Some dips on the bars I think. Stretching I think. Should have noted it down when it was fresh!
Tuesday - rest. Walked to/from work.
Wednesday - quick morning core session. 50 crunches, 5x10sec Spider-Man, 2x45sec paddling dishes, 50 crunches. Evening wall - good session feeling strong.
Thursday - tried to do wall comp. decided very quickly that I was tired, knackered and weak as a kitten. Plus it was crazy busy. So I sacked it.
Friday - wall. Half decent session did some decent stuff. Didn't go too hard as thought I was getting out Sat. Did some dips and some invert to l-sit eccentrics - 3x4, form improving.
Saturday - outdoor plan fail. Nipped to the wall for a very quick 1-on-1-off session (60s on, 60s off x10 - high end aerocap). Pumpy little number! Managed about 5 on my initial link, then had to switch to some slightly more amenable options to keep going to lap 10. Also some stretching. Not too hard as hoped to get out Sunday.
Sunday - outdoor plan fail! Getting repetitive. Went for a few hours on the bike to use the window of sun - 28 miles, 1200ft ascent. Then wall again in the pm. This time though I knew I wasn't getting out the next day! 3x8 bottom pulls, 3x6 dips on bar, 5x10sec spidermans, 3x3 each arm offsets (forearms length spacing), 2x6 flies (Ts), 2x6 Is, 3x6 sets tucked front lever pullups (well, actually 7,5,6), 2x4 skin-the-cat, 2,1,1 l-sit to invert (going up as well as the eccentric, plus knackered, hence reduced reps). Then fingerboard - 3- finger drag1-arm hangs on BM2k little rails @56kg (5s left, 8s right)
Notes
- enjoying the rings stuff. Probably working a weakness too as I'm terrible at it and it makes my shoulders and back ache in a way climbing rarely does.
- did an actual session off the plan again this week. Pumpy stuff! Hoping to fully follow the aerobic and conditioning side again from now on, with rings/etc replacing AnCap for a bit longer.
- bit frustrating not to get outside but got some good training in.
> AJM - still keeping the climbing tape manufacturers in business?
Certainly am!
Monday - wall. Bouldering, did some relatively tricky problems. Then onto rings. 3x12 push-ups into rings. 3x5-6 tucked front lever pullups - could feel Sunday in my back so poorer. 3x3 extension into L-sit eccentrics, focusing on keeping it slow and controlled. Some dips on the bars I think. Stretching I think. Should have noted it down when it was fresh!
Tuesday - rest. Walked to/from work.
Wednesday - quick morning core session. 50 crunches, 5x10sec Spider-Man, 2x45sec paddling dishes, 50 crunches. Evening wall - good session feeling strong.
Thursday - tried to do wall comp. decided very quickly that I was tired, knackered and weak as a kitten. Plus it was crazy busy. So I sacked it.
Friday - wall. Half decent session did some decent stuff. Didn't go too hard as thought I was getting out Sat. Did some dips and some invert to l-sit eccentrics - 3x4, form improving.
Saturday - outdoor plan fail. Nipped to the wall for a very quick 1-on-1-off session (60s on, 60s off x10 - high end aerocap). Pumpy little number! Managed about 5 on my initial link, then had to switch to some slightly more amenable options to keep going to lap 10. Also some stretching. Not too hard as hoped to get out Sunday.
Sunday - outdoor plan fail! Getting repetitive. Went for a few hours on the bike to use the window of sun - 28 miles, 1200ft ascent. Then wall again in the pm. This time though I knew I wasn't getting out the next day! 3x8 bottom pulls, 3x6 dips on bar, 5x10sec spidermans, 3x3 each arm offsets (forearms length spacing), 2x6 flies (Ts), 2x6 Is, 3x6 sets tucked front lever pullups (well, actually 7,5,6), 2x4 skin-the-cat, 2,1,1 l-sit to invert (going up as well as the eccentric, plus knackered, hence reduced reps). Then fingerboard - 3- finger drag1-arm hangs on BM2k little rails @56kg (5s left, 8s right)
Notes
- enjoying the rings stuff. Probably working a weakness too as I'm terrible at it and it makes my shoulders and back ache in a way climbing rarely does.
- did an actual session off the plan again this week. Pumpy stuff! Hoping to fully follow the aerobic and conditioning side again from now on, with rings/etc replacing AnCap for a bit longer.
- bit frustrating not to get outside but got some good training in.
In reply to Nick Russell:
1st full week in the Organya apartment, trying Fisheye at Oliana…
…very long-winded write-up. Helping me to remember all the micro-beta and stay motivated.
STG (next week) – FISHEYE!
- Get solid on the first crux above the wiggy long draw; skipping draw post crux to ease rope drag - all sorted
- Second crux to the rail – struggling on the link, but fine in isolation.
- Headwall link – rail to chains – 8a-ish – no – close 3 times.
- Ground to rail
- Ground to chains!
Last week:
M - Rest. “Working from home” from Organya – stretching and shopping in the evening.
T - Oliana. 7a then 7c/+ warm-ups (dogged from 2/3rd's – unfamiliar with it).
Fisheye pseudo RP – left ground at 4pm and had gaffered kneepad in place. Got through opening 7c section smoothly. Shook out, then through 1st crux while skipping clip – slightly over-gripping. Didn’t get the rest I though t I could before 2nd crux. Too front on and couldn’t do undercut opener to 2nd crux – took a while to figure out body position - right hip against the wall! 3 days to equal to last years high-point.
Pulled through 2nd crux and went to high on headwall, but came up short of square-cut pocket before the final crux.
Nailed final crux to letter-box, but cocked up final throw. Tweaked feet and found 2 finger stack to get into position.
Belayed for an hour, got cold, went to go for headwall link on next tie-in and bailed due to freezing fingers.
W - 7a, then tried Pastellon Direct 7c OS to warm-up. Bailed due to fingery nature, so went up Pastellon, 7b OS instead. Bailed off this too as it was a shit eliminate! Lesson learnt – there’s a reason Sense Nom 7c/+ is the popular warm-up! (AJM – this is the thing we sent you up last year and got a spanking on).
Fisheye – bolt-2-bolt to below 2nd crux – 4:30pm departure. Warmed hands (white ring-finger finger) then pulled into undercut opener of crux and nailed it 1st go and went all the way to the square-cut pocket below final crux. Another lesson learnt - milk the big pocket rest below the headwall for all it’s worth, as it’s hard to get it all back in square-cut pocket.
Came up short on crux rock-over  - really need to engage right shoulder to get height on left foot. Then went to top with ease using new letter-box beta. i.e. done it in three now.
T - Nowt – Rest – belay/camera b*tch at Oliana for John. Watched awesome Mawson smash Mind Control and Jonathon take the victory whip from the top of Marroncita. Good day at the crag.
F - Equalled high point again after 2 aborted starts when I repeatedly put my hand the wrong side of my knee to initiate the first crux. Dipsh*t! Struggled with the crux undercut move again – worked it – did it 3 times, then a link from crux to middle of headwall. Worked a move mid-head wall, using intermediate to enable drop-knee and avoid lurching for 3 finger pocket. Brian did Mind Control 2nd go - wad!
S - Forced to go early because of airport run; again got to high-point, but with less style than before. Still couldn’t do crux undercut! Much frustration ensued; worked it again – big dropknee off black mess, force ringfinger deep into undercut, high-thumb scum/pinch, push with trailing hand, RF on and R hip against wall – don’t look until the last second. If I get the hold at all wrong, it feels like my ring-finger will explode – the problem with chubby fingers!
Linked Rail to square-cut pocket, shook-out, but failed on rockover – more micro beta – RH finger-stack all three fingertips, not just 2+1, and really pull with LH mono-stack to gain height. Also, from letter box, get LF on micro edge, then get new 2 finger pocket, RF on edge, then bowl over. Opened up a flapper on L-pinky dragging the corner of square-cut pocket to rest.
Cracking headache on airport run and whilst shopping; cocked up hydration again – drink more you eegit!
S - Rest day – lazy brunch. Short jolly to check out Coll de Nargo; John has taken the knock. Listened to a Paul KcKenna sports performance hypnosis podcast. Tomorrow?
1st full week in the Organya apartment, trying Fisheye at Oliana…
…very long-winded write-up. Helping me to remember all the micro-beta and stay motivated.
STG (next week) – FISHEYE!
- Get solid on the first crux above the wiggy long draw; skipping draw post crux to ease rope drag - all sorted
- Second crux to the rail – struggling on the link, but fine in isolation.
- Headwall link – rail to chains – 8a-ish – no – close 3 times.
- Ground to rail
- Ground to chains!
Last week:
M - Rest. “Working from home” from Organya – stretching and shopping in the evening.
T - Oliana. 7a then 7c/+ warm-ups (dogged from 2/3rd's – unfamiliar with it).
Fisheye pseudo RP – left ground at 4pm and had gaffered kneepad in place. Got through opening 7c section smoothly. Shook out, then through 1st crux while skipping clip – slightly over-gripping. Didn’t get the rest I though t I could before 2nd crux. Too front on and couldn’t do undercut opener to 2nd crux – took a while to figure out body position - right hip against the wall! 3 days to equal to last years high-point.
Pulled through 2nd crux and went to high on headwall, but came up short of square-cut pocket before the final crux.
Nailed final crux to letter-box, but cocked up final throw. Tweaked feet and found 2 finger stack to get into position.
Belayed for an hour, got cold, went to go for headwall link on next tie-in and bailed due to freezing fingers.
W - 7a, then tried Pastellon Direct 7c OS to warm-up. Bailed due to fingery nature, so went up Pastellon, 7b OS instead. Bailed off this too as it was a shit eliminate! Lesson learnt – there’s a reason Sense Nom 7c/+ is the popular warm-up! (AJM – this is the thing we sent you up last year and got a spanking on).
Fisheye – bolt-2-bolt to below 2nd crux – 4:30pm departure. Warmed hands (white ring-finger finger) then pulled into undercut opener of crux and nailed it 1st go and went all the way to the square-cut pocket below final crux. Another lesson learnt - milk the big pocket rest below the headwall for all it’s worth, as it’s hard to get it all back in square-cut pocket.
Came up short on crux rock-over  - really need to engage right shoulder to get height on left foot. Then went to top with ease using new letter-box beta. i.e. done it in three now.
T - Nowt – Rest – belay/camera b*tch at Oliana for John. Watched awesome Mawson smash Mind Control and Jonathon take the victory whip from the top of Marroncita. Good day at the crag.
F - Equalled high point again after 2 aborted starts when I repeatedly put my hand the wrong side of my knee to initiate the first crux. Dipsh*t! Struggled with the crux undercut move again – worked it – did it 3 times, then a link from crux to middle of headwall. Worked a move mid-head wall, using intermediate to enable drop-knee and avoid lurching for 3 finger pocket. Brian did Mind Control 2nd go - wad!
S - Forced to go early because of airport run; again got to high-point, but with less style than before. Still couldn’t do crux undercut! Much frustration ensued; worked it again – big dropknee off black mess, force ringfinger deep into undercut, high-thumb scum/pinch, push with trailing hand, RF on and R hip against wall – don’t look until the last second. If I get the hold at all wrong, it feels like my ring-finger will explode – the problem with chubby fingers!
Linked Rail to square-cut pocket, shook-out, but failed on rockover – more micro beta – RH finger-stack all three fingertips, not just 2+1, and really pull with LH mono-stack to gain height. Also, from letter box, get LF on micro edge, then get new 2 finger pocket, RF on edge, then bowl over. Opened up a flapper on L-pinky dragging the corner of square-cut pocket to rest.
Cracking headache on airport run and whilst shopping; cocked up hydration again – drink more you eegit!
S - Rest day – lazy brunch. Short jolly to check out Coll de Nargo; John has taken the knock. Listened to a Paul KcKenna sports performance hypnosis podcast. Tomorrow?
2
In reply to AJM:
Am I mis-understanding this or have you suddenly become a beast?? You surely can't hang one-armed on a single 3-finger drag on the bottom rail, even with your weight reduced to 56kg by some pulley system?
> Sunday - ...Then fingerboard - 3- finger drag1-arm hangs on BM2k little rails @56kg (5s left, 8s right)
Am I mis-understanding this or have you suddenly become a beast?? You surely can't hang one-armed on a single 3-finger drag on the bottom rail, even with your weight reduced to 56kg by some pulley system?
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick, (effort on Peryl, an early tick for the trad year)
The HVS was a chop route. Any route with gear at 1/3rd height and crux above is a chop route. But that was last week and old news now. This week I have done nothing other than work. So little to report!
I was suposed to get out Saturday but the weather looked too poor to risk a 3hr journey on. Today has been lovely here, if a little windy. Hope others got out!
MrChewy: Sounds like excellent progress. I hope a new plateau breakthrough is on the agenda.
Thanks all, Kev.
Thanks Nick, (effort on Peryl, an early tick for the trad year)
The HVS was a chop route. Any route with gear at 1/3rd height and crux above is a chop route. But that was last week and old news now. This week I have done nothing other than work. So little to report!
I was suposed to get out Saturday but the weather looked too poor to risk a 3hr journey on. Today has been lovely here, if a little windy. Hope others got out!
MrChewy: Sounds like excellent progress. I hope a new plateau breakthrough is on the agenda.
Thanks all, Kev.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers bud. I was pretty chuffed. They were some amazing boulders which I'd recommend to anyone with a font wish list.
M- new set of whites down the wall. Climbed most v5-8. Failed on the hard one, despite trying it loads.
T- fingerboard session. Followed by a core set.
W- attempted climbing but was super tired after parents evening. Ended up doing a short trx session. Absolutely Beasted my core.
T- rest day
F- rubicon night session. Walk in was pretty flooded and the wall was damp with lots of seepy holds. Manned up anyway and tried climbing. Failed on a 7B for about 2 hours until I managed the 7C finishing into the 7B. Then tried tsunami from one move in and did it...? Weird session, made me think I could actually do tsunami. Fell off the last hold 3 times until I stuck it from sit! Nice, February 8A!
S- rest and watch rugby
S- early start at RA. Eastern peak. Another battle of a problem but managed to send fools justice 8A. Pretty soft, but I'll take it until someone downgrades it.
Going to try and get back on the grit next week. I've been on the lime too much recently. Fingers crossed for the weather.
Cheers bud. I was pretty chuffed. They were some amazing boulders which I'd recommend to anyone with a font wish list.
M- new set of whites down the wall. Climbed most v5-8. Failed on the hard one, despite trying it loads.
T- fingerboard session. Followed by a core set.
W- attempted climbing but was super tired after parents evening. Ended up doing a short trx session. Absolutely Beasted my core.
T- rest day
F- rubicon night session. Walk in was pretty flooded and the wall was damp with lots of seepy holds. Manned up anyway and tried climbing. Failed on a 7B for about 2 hours until I managed the 7C finishing into the 7B. Then tried tsunami from one move in and did it...? Weird session, made me think I could actually do tsunami. Fell off the last hold 3 times until I stuck it from sit! Nice, February 8A!
S- rest and watch rugby
S- early start at RA. Eastern peak. Another battle of a problem but managed to send fools justice 8A. Pretty soft, but I'll take it until someone downgrades it.
Going to try and get back on the grit next week. I've been on the lime too much recently. Fingers crossed for the weather.
In reply to Si dH:
The bottom left and right holds on a BM2k, one hand on those one on the counterweight rope. The counterweight setup is a bit set back from the fingerboard which I think helps pull me under/behind the hold rather than hanging directly underneath it, if that makes sense
But my fingers, based on the fingerboard, have rarely been my problem in the past - I've 2-handed hung those edges before with about 16kg of dumbbell hooked round my knee - it's the application.
Which I think is why the amount of steep stuff I was doing, and the conditioning and now the rings exercises Tom set me, have probably been well-aimed - helping to tie the whole system together. On the subject of Tom, the benchmark score I got was slightly above median finger strength out of the sample of Fr8a climbers, and that was roughly 90% bodyweight on a hold that broadly speaking is a medium campus rung.
Edit: remember that I am also a fatty - the ~56kg is versus a weight of 73.2kg in my shoes and trainers (I checked when I got home to aid the accuracy of the benchmark), so it's a 17.5kg stack on the counterweight!
The bottom left and right holds on a BM2k, one hand on those one on the counterweight rope. The counterweight setup is a bit set back from the fingerboard which I think helps pull me under/behind the hold rather than hanging directly underneath it, if that makes sense
But my fingers, based on the fingerboard, have rarely been my problem in the past - I've 2-handed hung those edges before with about 16kg of dumbbell hooked round my knee - it's the application.
Which I think is why the amount of steep stuff I was doing, and the conditioning and now the rings exercises Tom set me, have probably been well-aimed - helping to tie the whole system together. On the subject of Tom, the benchmark score I got was slightly above median finger strength out of the sample of Fr8a climbers, and that was roughly 90% bodyweight on a hold that broadly speaking is a medium campus rung.
Edit: remember that I am also a fatty - the ~56kg is versus a weight of 73.2kg in my shoes and trainers (I checked when I got home to aid the accuracy of the benchmark), so it's a 17.5kg stack on the counterweight!
Post edited at 20:02
In reply to AJM:
The reason I said a bimble session was that in my original 6 week training plan for the Chulilla trip, he said to have 3-4 days complete rest before the trip itself. So doing one gentle session just to keep everything ticking away seemed appropriate. And I did do 5 good wall sessions & 2 S&C sessions in the last 7 days so do feel that I've possibly been a bit foot to the floor!
The reason I said a bimble session was that in my original 6 week training plan for the Chulilla trip, he said to have 3-4 days complete rest before the trip itself. So doing one gentle session just to keep everything ticking away seemed appropriate. And I did do 5 good wall sessions & 2 S&C sessions in the last 7 days so do feel that I've possibly been a bit foot to the floor!
In reply to hms:
Id never just stop completely before a trip. I'd do some really easy dead hangs on campus rungs. Just to keep the fingers warm. I always find it takes me a day or two to get back up to scratch if I haven't done anything for more than 2 or 3 days.
Id never just stop completely before a trip. I'd do some really easy dead hangs on campus rungs. Just to keep the fingers warm. I always find it takes me a day or two to get back up to scratch if I haven't done anything for more than 2 or 3 days.
In reply to hms:
That sounds excessive. I don't know exactly how to adapt this to climbing, but in swimming training we'd have a week or two taper. During this time, we'd switch more to sprints (roughly like AJM is suggesting, keep the short, intense stuff in), technique (starts, turns etc - this doesn't seem to have a good analogue in climbing), and practicing the event we would be racing. We'd have a 'paddle' (bimble) on the day before, and probably a complete rest the day before that, but definitely not complete rest.
Based on this, I'd suggest 2 climbing sessions this week - one short and intense, one bimble. I'm open to discussion on that though!
> have 3-4 days complete rest before the trip itself
That sounds excessive. I don't know exactly how to adapt this to climbing, but in swimming training we'd have a week or two taper. During this time, we'd switch more to sprints (roughly like AJM is suggesting, keep the short, intense stuff in), technique (starts, turns etc - this doesn't seem to have a good analogue in climbing), and practicing the event we would be racing. We'd have a 'paddle' (bimble) on the day before, and probably a complete rest the day before that, but definitely not complete rest.
Based on this, I'd suggest 2 climbing sessions this week - one short and intense, one bimble. I'm open to discussion on that though!
In reply to hms:
Your call, I'm just going on the Word according to Barrows, but personally I'd be aiming for at least one short intense session this week before you go. The Word, of course, also proscribes a 2- week taper rather than a 4-day taper, so who knows...
Your call, I'm just going on the Word according to Barrows, but personally I'd be aiming for at least one short intense session this week before you go. The Word, of course, also proscribes a 2- week taper rather than a 4-day taper, so who knows...
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick - last week was pants but this week has been a bit better.
Mon - 2 mile hill run
Tues - 3 miles hills
Weds - 1.5 hrs lead climbing with no belay breaks as had Magic Mike belayer. Until the last 3 wks I'd done very little leading with big gaps between and none on my top rope/boulder grade. I was having a stab at F6b+ leading on weds, didn't get up it, had a mini fall and a 2nd try after so felt chuffed with my efforts. I was getting cheered on again, the vibe is so cool, makes me try harder and smile wider.
Thurs - 2 miles hills, 45 mins aqua aerobics
Fri - 2 miles abysmal run, got a stitch round my belly, didn't know what it was and felt terrible so sauntered home! 1.5 hrs skating on my own so decent efforts, plenty quick.
Sat - 2 miles hills. 1.5 hrs bouldering.
Sun - 3+ hours, ropes and bouldering stayed at till I was battered! Ache....
Thanks Nick - last week was pants but this week has been a bit better.
Mon - 2 mile hill run
Tues - 3 miles hills
Weds - 1.5 hrs lead climbing with no belay breaks as had Magic Mike belayer. Until the last 3 wks I'd done very little leading with big gaps between and none on my top rope/boulder grade. I was having a stab at F6b+ leading on weds, didn't get up it, had a mini fall and a 2nd try after so felt chuffed with my efforts. I was getting cheered on again, the vibe is so cool, makes me try harder and smile wider.
Thurs - 2 miles hills, 45 mins aqua aerobics
Fri - 2 miles abysmal run, got a stitch round my belly, didn't know what it was and felt terrible so sauntered home! 1.5 hrs skating on my own so decent efforts, plenty quick.
Sat - 2 miles hills. 1.5 hrs bouldering.
Sun - 3+ hours, ropes and bouldering stayed at till I was battered! Ache....
In reply to Nick Russell:
Hi nick yep I think I'm coming round to the idea that there must be a few things I can get up soon as there is a break in the weather....
M-kettlebell blast and body weight exercises
T-quick works session. Did most of the murples which is ok for a quick session.
W-nowt
T-nowt
F-three hour works session. Really good fun. Did all but 5 wasps (F6b/c ish) including several I'd not got before. Was doing other stuff too tho so possibly could have got all but one of them if id put my mind to it. One or two I thought were stupid hard a few weeks this time I cruised them. Felt good.
S-higgar tor to look at piss (F7B). It was wet. After a detour to the boulders which were also wet came back and the holds on piss were dry-ish. Gave it some goes. Wasted effort trying to use the wrong sequence but......long story short, it'll go next time in the dry I feel almost certain.
S-sorting out my garage to build a climbing wall in it. 150 press ups, 50 pull ups, and a new high score on 2 labs of the 5A BM circuit (73/84).
Weight - excellent progress here, hit my end February target yesterday by scoring 63.4kgs down from 72.5kgs on NYE. Quite happy about that.
Next steps - get out on some dry rock!
Hi nick yep I think I'm coming round to the idea that there must be a few things I can get up soon as there is a break in the weather....
M-kettlebell blast and body weight exercises
T-quick works session. Did most of the murples which is ok for a quick session.
W-nowt
T-nowt
F-three hour works session. Really good fun. Did all but 5 wasps (F6b/c ish) including several I'd not got before. Was doing other stuff too tho so possibly could have got all but one of them if id put my mind to it. One or two I thought were stupid hard a few weeks this time I cruised them. Felt good.
S-higgar tor to look at piss (F7B). It was wet. After a detour to the boulders which were also wet came back and the holds on piss were dry-ish. Gave it some goes. Wasted effort trying to use the wrong sequence but......long story short, it'll go next time in the dry I feel almost certain.
S-sorting out my garage to build a climbing wall in it. 150 press ups, 50 pull ups, and a new high score on 2 labs of the 5A BM circuit (73/84).
Weight - excellent progress here, hit my end February target yesterday by scoring 63.4kgs down from 72.5kgs on NYE. Quite happy about that.
Next steps - get out on some dry rock!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers Nick, that's good perspective. I did eat an awful lot though!
M: Stockport
T: Excercise bike, felt easy on level 13 so upped it to 14 for last 20 mins. Big difference.
W: Deadhangs, some improvement, little foot on but still pitifully short times
T: Stockport, nine tie ins, no doubles
F: Out on bike, wanted to see how exercise bike converts to proper biking; not well! Took the Coal Road over to Crag Quarry needed two or three rests on the way up. Not psyched by biking but the down hill to Lee Quarry was ace.
S: Bike on road, 18 miles very up and down, felt ok considering this was my second day 'on'.
S: Stockport, scraped 10 tie ins including top ropes, failures and warm ups.
Injuries: Normal ankle etc., hip been better but not been doing rehab and tonight I'm noticing it, coincidence? RH index swollen, RH middle finger painfully 'clicky'.
Diet: Good, spinach and meat/fish every night, not lost any weight though, maybe still too much fat in diet.
> Tyler - 2 climbing sessions + 1 fingerboard + 2 bike sessions isn't such a bad week
Cheers Nick, that's good perspective. I did eat an awful lot though!
M: Stockport
T: Excercise bike, felt easy on level 13 so upped it to 14 for last 20 mins. Big difference.
W: Deadhangs, some improvement, little foot on but still pitifully short times
T: Stockport, nine tie ins, no doubles
F: Out on bike, wanted to see how exercise bike converts to proper biking; not well! Took the Coal Road over to Crag Quarry needed two or three rests on the way up. Not psyched by biking but the down hill to Lee Quarry was ace.
S: Bike on road, 18 miles very up and down, felt ok considering this was my second day 'on'.
S: Stockport, scraped 10 tie ins including top ropes, failures and warm ups.
Injuries: Normal ankle etc., hip been better but not been doing rehab and tonight I'm noticing it, coincidence? RH index swollen, RH middle finger painfully 'clicky'.
Diet: Good, spinach and meat/fish every night, not lost any weight though, maybe still too much fat in diet.
Post edited at 21:44
1
In reply to Nick Russell
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 10lbs (3lbs gain)
M - 100 dish tucks
T - Grange Fell
W - Great Crag
T - 2 hours indoor routes - Great Mell Fell
F - Tarn Crag - 6 mile walk
S - Drive back from the Lakes
S - DIY all day then 100 dish tucks
Month average - 85% - for Feb
Year Average - 81%
A nice relaxing week up in the Lakes, lots of gentle bimbling around various small fells, slowly upping the Wainwright count. Too much good food, cake and ale however means a rather large weight gain. The averages are looking good however and I also fitted two drawers into the kitchen today, just one drawer left to make and fit. The end of the units is almost in sight! Then it's just a bit of building work on the alcove and some tiling. Thne I need to finish the floor in the shed so it can take the weight of the woorkworking kit and I can turn the kitchen into a kitchen and not a kitchen/workshop.
The coaching session with John Kettle was top notch. I don't think I learned anything that I didn't already know, eg I knew about the importance of footwork and momentum in climbing. But I'd never had anyone spell out to me what I should be doing. We also had a great chat about mental techniques and 'resetting state' which was new to me and I really think I can get some good gains there. My footwork is ok, but there's still a way to go with it, so I need to start some drills. Also if I can do it I need to lead more indoors and do some clip drop if possible. Basically it's obvious now that my mental state is my biggest weakness, so training that is going to get me the best and biggest gains, certainly in my trad climbing. The footwork (which I thought was ok tbh) should net me some good gains in the sport (and trad) side of things. John is a good coach and I thought the session was really worthwhile. I'm keen to have more sessions, it's just a bit of a trek, but as we go to the Lakes a lot anyway, then it's doable.
The weight situation is awful, but the wife and I are on a diet from next week, so hopefully should be able to get it down steadily.
mrchewey - I'm glad to hear you got a lot out of it. I replied to your email, hope it's not in the spam folder again!
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 10lbs (3lbs gain)
M - 100 dish tucks
T - Grange Fell
W - Great Crag
T - 2 hours indoor routes - Great Mell Fell
F - Tarn Crag - 6 mile walk
S - Drive back from the Lakes
S - DIY all day then 100 dish tucks
Month average - 85% - for Feb
Year Average - 81%
A nice relaxing week up in the Lakes, lots of gentle bimbling around various small fells, slowly upping the Wainwright count. Too much good food, cake and ale however means a rather large weight gain. The averages are looking good however and I also fitted two drawers into the kitchen today, just one drawer left to make and fit. The end of the units is almost in sight! Then it's just a bit of building work on the alcove and some tiling. Thne I need to finish the floor in the shed so it can take the weight of the woorkworking kit and I can turn the kitchen into a kitchen and not a kitchen/workshop.
The coaching session with John Kettle was top notch. I don't think I learned anything that I didn't already know, eg I knew about the importance of footwork and momentum in climbing. But I'd never had anyone spell out to me what I should be doing. We also had a great chat about mental techniques and 'resetting state' which was new to me and I really think I can get some good gains there. My footwork is ok, but there's still a way to go with it, so I need to start some drills. Also if I can do it I need to lead more indoors and do some clip drop if possible. Basically it's obvious now that my mental state is my biggest weakness, so training that is going to get me the best and biggest gains, certainly in my trad climbing. The footwork (which I thought was ok tbh) should net me some good gains in the sport (and trad) side of things. John is a good coach and I thought the session was really worthwhile. I'm keen to have more sessions, it's just a bit of a trek, but as we go to the Lakes a lot anyway, then it's doable.
The weight situation is awful, but the wife and I are on a diet from next week, so hopefully should be able to get it down steadily.
mrchewey - I'm glad to hear you got a lot out of it. I replied to your email, hope it's not in the spam folder again!
2
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers for doing FC Nick, the movement course went well thanks. It started with going through and identifying all the good and bad habits we had developed naturally. A lot of it was self questioning and working through why the good habits worked and expanding on the theories behind them. We then tried to eradicate the bad habits by doing semi competitive exercises that resulted in point loss for poor form. Main points for me being trying to get my footwork quiet and precise, think instead of flail. Can't say its all sticking under pressure yet but it seems to have helped.
M - Cycle commute. Swimming in evening, 1km mixed stroke.
T - Cycle commute. Movement course.
W - Cycle commute. Walk / rest.
T - Cycle commute. 8km easy jogging with heart rate below 80% Max.
F - Cycle commute. Rest.
S - Turned up to do Parkrun, but hadn't printed barcode and they couldn't scan phone screen. Doh, next week - did core session instead!
S - Routes at Pinnacle, good session. Crossed off one of my goals, "climb an overhanging route" - it was overhanging from start to finish and a 5+, so at the top of my grade. Then nearly crossed off another goal of getting a 6a - finger tips gave way reaching round a roof on the crux. Was gonna bail but I had an audience, turned out to be mrchewy (good to finally meet)! Took a quick rest on the rope instead and then finished it off. Bit gutted as it would have been a flash but well chuffed overall! Progress!
Cheers for doing FC Nick, the movement course went well thanks. It started with going through and identifying all the good and bad habits we had developed naturally. A lot of it was self questioning and working through why the good habits worked and expanding on the theories behind them. We then tried to eradicate the bad habits by doing semi competitive exercises that resulted in point loss for poor form. Main points for me being trying to get my footwork quiet and precise, think instead of flail. Can't say its all sticking under pressure yet but it seems to have helped.
M - Cycle commute. Swimming in evening, 1km mixed stroke.
T - Cycle commute. Movement course.
W - Cycle commute. Walk / rest.
T - Cycle commute. 8km easy jogging with heart rate below 80% Max.
F - Cycle commute. Rest.
S - Turned up to do Parkrun, but hadn't printed barcode and they couldn't scan phone screen. Doh, next week - did core session instead!
S - Routes at Pinnacle, good session. Crossed off one of my goals, "climb an overhanging route" - it was overhanging from start to finish and a 5+, so at the top of my grade. Then nearly crossed off another goal of getting a 6a - finger tips gave way reaching round a roof on the crux. Was gonna bail but I had an audience, turned out to be mrchewy (good to finally meet)! Took a quick rest on the rope instead and then finished it off. Bit gutted as it would have been a flash but well chuffed overall! Progress!
Post edited at 22:51
In reply to Ian Rock:
The park run thing....could you run the course anyway without an official time or does it not work like that? Just curious don't know too much about the setup.
The park run thing....could you run the course anyway without an official time or does it not work like that? Just curious don't know too much about the setup.
In reply to Nick Russell: A good week. 5 bouldering sessions which is a first for me since I started climbing regularly again in November, however my right arm is definitely feeling it and my fingers are suffering loss of skin for the first time this season.
Off to Scotland for another trip but only 7-10 days this time, and then it will be 100% focused on outdoor rock...
M - Boulder (2 reds ticked, loosely graded V5-V7, one definitely feeling hard.)
T - rest
W - Boulder (first visit to Reading wall, 18/20 of V3-5 circuit, 5 out of the 11 V4-6 blocs
attempted.)
T - Boulder (2 more reds.)
F - rest
S - Boulder (another red.)
S - Boulder (another easier red, plus overlapping sections on a second much harder one.)
Off to Scotland for another trip but only 7-10 days this time, and then it will be 100% focused on outdoor rock...
M - Boulder (2 reds ticked, loosely graded V5-V7, one definitely feeling hard.)
T - rest
W - Boulder (first visit to Reading wall, 18/20 of V3-5 circuit, 5 out of the 11 V4-6 blocs
attempted.)
T - Boulder (2 more reds.)
F - rest
S - Boulder (another red.)
S - Boulder (another easier red, plus overlapping sections on a second much harder one.)
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing Fit Club Nick. The off-road event went really well. It was the Grizzly, a biggish, jolly event in Seaton on the Dorset coast, held by Axe Valley Runners, with 1000+ entrants and loads of deep mud and shingle beach. 19 miles/3000 ft ish of ascent. My target time was 3:30, based on what I have managed off-road down here, although that was a bit of a guess since that meant a 10:30 pace and I would only do that on the toughest parts of the SWCP. Also, my previous best was 3:58, but that was in 2009 on a lot less training and 7 extra kg of body weight. last year was a plantar fasciitis afflicted grind in 4:08
I did 3:10, so really pleased with that. The training helped hugely. Apart from making me physically capable of this, I knew when I was within my limits and could push-on past people ahead of me. It felt great.
'They' say your Grizzly time is similar to your marathon time. Now, my only marathon was 31 years ago, around Cambridge, and I did it in 3:44, so there might be a PB up for the taking?
M - 9.5 miles, hills
W - 9.3 miles @ 7:44, including a few at 7:20 ish, then 2 more miles slowly, while my lift arrived.
F - 9.3 miles, same run again, @7:24, last three at 6:40-7:00 ish. Got me 5/108 on a Strava leader board for a 2 mile flat segment, up from 10th, from which I derived childish pleasure.
S - 5 miles easy around town
S - Grizzly
Thanks for doing Fit Club Nick. The off-road event went really well. It was the Grizzly, a biggish, jolly event in Seaton on the Dorset coast, held by Axe Valley Runners, with 1000+ entrants and loads of deep mud and shingle beach. 19 miles/3000 ft ish of ascent. My target time was 3:30, based on what I have managed off-road down here, although that was a bit of a guess since that meant a 10:30 pace and I would only do that on the toughest parts of the SWCP. Also, my previous best was 3:58, but that was in 2009 on a lot less training and 7 extra kg of body weight. last year was a plantar fasciitis afflicted grind in 4:08
I did 3:10, so really pleased with that. The training helped hugely. Apart from making me physically capable of this, I knew when I was within my limits and could push-on past people ahead of me. It felt great.
'They' say your Grizzly time is similar to your marathon time. Now, my only marathon was 31 years ago, around Cambridge, and I did it in 3:44, so there might be a PB up for the taking?
M - 9.5 miles, hills
W - 9.3 miles @ 7:44, including a few at 7:20 ish, then 2 more miles slowly, while my lift arrived.
F - 9.3 miles, same run again, @7:24, last three at 6:40-7:00 ish. Got me 5/108 on a Strava leader board for a 2 mile flat segment, up from 10th, from which I derived childish pleasure.
S - 5 miles easy around town
S - Grizzly
In reply to Mutl3y:
Yea I suppose you could, its run on public ground after all. It looks like there is a funnel system in place at the end for scanning barcodes and working out places and times. Being unfamiliar with it all I didnt want to mess up their system by being given an official place that belonged to someone else, so just went home and did something else.
Yea I suppose you could, its run on public ground after all. It looks like there is a funnel system in place at the end for scanning barcodes and working out places and times. Being unfamiliar with it all I didnt want to mess up their system by being given an official place that belonged to someone else, so just went home and did something else.
In reply to mbh:
Well done, that's an awesome time! I don't know how 'they' calculate the marathon equivalence but it definitely sounds like there's a PB on the cards if you want it.
Well done, that's an awesome time! I don't know how 'they' calculate the marathon equivalence but it definitely sounds like there's a PB on the cards if you want it.
In reply to Mutl3y:
Yeah, you can. It doesn't mess up their timings if you don't enter the funnel. I think they don't mind this; after all, it can't be that unusual for someone to forget their barcode.
> could you run the course anyway without an official time or does it not work like that?
Yeah, you can. It doesn't mess up their timings if you don't enter the funnel. I think they don't mind this; after all, it can't be that unusual for someone to forget their barcode.
1
In reply to Ian Rock:
Fair play, good luck with it next time! Been thinking of giving it a go myself for a bit of a laugh- never do any running of any type but vaguely interested in this sort of event.
Have had my barcode for over a year now tho and not used yet
Fair play, good luck with it next time! Been thinking of giving it a go myself for a bit of a laugh- never do any running of any type but vaguely interested in this sort of event.
Have had my barcode for over a year now tho and not used yet
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers Nick - yes net calories (I'm not very big so are aiming for around 1500 per day).
M - Fingerboard session.
T - General conditioning and core exercises.
W - Resting.
T - Climbing outside working on project. Managing to get to 5th bolt - but crux is in next 8m or so.
F - Back outside but knackered from previous day.
S - Resting.
S - Working on boulder project, but think lacking in the core strength dept. Fingerboard session - really starting to see improvements in this area.
Cheers Nick - yes net calories (I'm not very big so are aiming for around 1500 per day).
M - Fingerboard session.
T - General conditioning and core exercises.
W - Resting.
T - Climbing outside working on project. Managing to get to 5th bolt - but crux is in next 8m or so.
F - Back outside but knackered from previous day.
S - Resting.
S - Working on boulder project, but think lacking in the core strength dept. Fingerboard session - really starting to see improvements in this area.
In reply to Mutl3y:
It's good fun, I'd recommend it. You don't have to be running a lot for it to be worthwhile.
> Been thinking of giving it a go myself
It's good fun, I'd recommend it. You don't have to be running a lot for it to be worthwhile.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick. "They" is probably the accumulated experience of those who have done both. The Grizzly is shorter than a marathon but has lots of comedy terrain. so it sounds plausible to me.
Thanks Nick. "They" is probably the accumulated experience of those who have done both. The Grizzly is shorter than a marathon but has lots of comedy terrain. so it sounds plausible to me.
In reply to Mutl3y:
9 kg weight loss in 2 months is really quick - when I first tried to lose weight, three years ago though a combination of lots of exercise and less food and drink, I didn't quite match your rate of weight loss at first, but I did lose rapidly for the first six months, then found that I levelled off after that, at about 62-63 kg, which gave me a low-mid range "right" BMI, down from 75 kg, the BMI for which put me well on the way to obese, despite no obvious change in regime. My body seemed to know when to stop.
9 kg weight loss in 2 months is really quick - when I first tried to lose weight, three years ago though a combination of lots of exercise and less food and drink, I didn't quite match your rate of weight loss at first, but I did lose rapidly for the first six months, then found that I levelled off after that, at about 62-63 kg, which gave me a low-mid range "right" BMI, down from 75 kg, the BMI for which put me well on the way to obese, despite no obvious change in regime. My body seemed to know when to stop.
In reply to Tyler:
Sounds like a good week Ash; I'd like to re-visit Lee Quarry if you're keen? Is Crag Quarry the other spot over the moors; making it more of XC loop?
Sounds like a good week Ash; I'd like to re-visit Lee Quarry if you're keen? Is Crag Quarry the other spot over the moors; making it more of XC loop?
In reply to Ally Smith:
A weird day that. Eating the whole.time bit in a permanent sugar crash, knackered despite several rest days.
I'm getting almost inspired about a rematch, maybe take your approach and go big on one of the big lines (easy end of the range, of course!).
From Ukb it sounds like John has been on storming form. Best of luck to you both!
> Lesson learnt – there’s a reason Sense Nom 7c/+ is the popular warm-up! (AJM – this is the thing we sent you up last year and got a spanking on).
A weird day that. Eating the whole.time bit in a permanent sugar crash, knackered despite several rest days.
I'm getting almost inspired about a rematch, maybe take your approach and go big on one of the big lines (easy end of the range, of course!).
From Ukb it sounds like John has been on storming form. Best of luck to you both!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick, injuries are still under control, even managed some cheeky crimps on the dodgy finger this week!
M: Boulder indoor; max moves, working 2 new problems, both around V8
T: Suspected lurgy emerging, chilled out, lurgy never materialised
W: Physio with Nina
T: Boulder indoor; supposed to be 4x4 routes, just did max moves instead, progress on both V8-ish problems
F: Strength and conditioning
S: Routes indoor; double dips 6c+,7a,7a+,7b+
S: Rest
This week should have been mega intense if I was following the training plan, but a hint of lurgy on Tuesday (which I’d like to think could well have developed into something had I not taken the rest) and the 4 hour round trip to the physio on Wednesday kind of ruined my mojo for the week.
The trip to the Physio was well worth it though, aside from the seriously tasty burger I had in the Redpoint Bristol Café, I think we figured out what I did to my elbow last week.
Essentially, during tricep extensions I am letting my shoulder move out of a stable position meaning I have less control over the elbow at full extension and it can easily result in a tweak, probably of the brachialis. This might be compounded by the fact that my elbows are clearly a bit beaten up anyway, which just means I have to be extra careful on any exercises where the elbow is extended under load. I have to make sure my shoulder stays centered and I don’t try to ‘dip’ it to complete the extension of the arm. It’s all good advice for good form anyway but I need to be extra vigilant, as this tiny tweak can put me out of climbing for days at a time.
Nina also suggested getting back on the YTI ring exercises for additional shoulder support, I need to be wary doing the front-on ones to avoid this elbow tweak but equally the exercises should make the supporting muscles stronger which in turn will lower the likelihood of elbow tweaking in the future.
I felt really guilty on Thursday for ditching the plan and just having a chilled out boulder session, despite it being a positive session! It does seem a bit stupid to not follow the plan but the psyche wasn’t there so better that I did something that I enjoy rather than have no desire to perform in a session that I’m not interested in, surely?
Saturday double dips were good, the 7b+ was done in more of a worked style than back to back attempts, as lo and behold, there is a new hard (ish) route at Calshot! Amazingly, it’s actually pretty good too, it’s in the cave but has a low down crux on the flat wall first (after two safe clips) before getting burly on the steep stuff.
It finishes with a powerful lunge that would feel utterly impossible without my new secret weapon; the proper application of footwork! A not entirely obvious drop knee makes it just a good hard move instead of a seemingly unbridgeable gap if you went face-on to it, I’m still inordinately pleased when I spot stuff like this, six months ago I would have spent 10 minutes throwing myself at it and come down complaining of sore elbows, this time I needed two attempts to latch it, lowered off and immediately climbed the route again! That’s progress right there.
As the subject of weight seems to be a hot topic at the moment, I’ve quietly been trying to put on a little bit of ‘off-season’ weight so that I have something to shed just before a big holiday or competition. I’m usually happy at 10 stone and don’t want to go below that, so I’ve managed to put on 10 pounds (4.5kg) in the last couple of months, but only gain about 0.2% bodyfat in the process. Hopefully that means some muscle gains, I don’t ‘feel’ heavy when climbing so I’m thinking I’ll drop maybe half of that extra weight before Kalymnos and I should feel like I’m filled with helium, at least for a couple of days.
Aim for next week is to stick to the training plan a little better.
Nothing from the Ninja warrior people yet, but it’s early days.
> Dandan82 - Good news on the finger and elbow, and sounds like you crushed the audition!
Thanks Nick, injuries are still under control, even managed some cheeky crimps on the dodgy finger this week!
M: Boulder indoor; max moves, working 2 new problems, both around V8
T: Suspected lurgy emerging, chilled out, lurgy never materialised
W: Physio with Nina
T: Boulder indoor; supposed to be 4x4 routes, just did max moves instead, progress on both V8-ish problems
F: Strength and conditioning
S: Routes indoor; double dips 6c+,7a,7a+,7b+
S: Rest
This week should have been mega intense if I was following the training plan, but a hint of lurgy on Tuesday (which I’d like to think could well have developed into something had I not taken the rest) and the 4 hour round trip to the physio on Wednesday kind of ruined my mojo for the week.
The trip to the Physio was well worth it though, aside from the seriously tasty burger I had in the Redpoint Bristol Café, I think we figured out what I did to my elbow last week.
Essentially, during tricep extensions I am letting my shoulder move out of a stable position meaning I have less control over the elbow at full extension and it can easily result in a tweak, probably of the brachialis. This might be compounded by the fact that my elbows are clearly a bit beaten up anyway, which just means I have to be extra careful on any exercises where the elbow is extended under load. I have to make sure my shoulder stays centered and I don’t try to ‘dip’ it to complete the extension of the arm. It’s all good advice for good form anyway but I need to be extra vigilant, as this tiny tweak can put me out of climbing for days at a time.
Nina also suggested getting back on the YTI ring exercises for additional shoulder support, I need to be wary doing the front-on ones to avoid this elbow tweak but equally the exercises should make the supporting muscles stronger which in turn will lower the likelihood of elbow tweaking in the future.
I felt really guilty on Thursday for ditching the plan and just having a chilled out boulder session, despite it being a positive session! It does seem a bit stupid to not follow the plan but the psyche wasn’t there so better that I did something that I enjoy rather than have no desire to perform in a session that I’m not interested in, surely?
Saturday double dips were good, the 7b+ was done in more of a worked style than back to back attempts, as lo and behold, there is a new hard (ish) route at Calshot! Amazingly, it’s actually pretty good too, it’s in the cave but has a low down crux on the flat wall first (after two safe clips) before getting burly on the steep stuff.
It finishes with a powerful lunge that would feel utterly impossible without my new secret weapon; the proper application of footwork! A not entirely obvious drop knee makes it just a good hard move instead of a seemingly unbridgeable gap if you went face-on to it, I’m still inordinately pleased when I spot stuff like this, six months ago I would have spent 10 minutes throwing myself at it and come down complaining of sore elbows, this time I needed two attempts to latch it, lowered off and immediately climbed the route again! That’s progress right there.
As the subject of weight seems to be a hot topic at the moment, I’ve quietly been trying to put on a little bit of ‘off-season’ weight so that I have something to shed just before a big holiday or competition. I’m usually happy at 10 stone and don’t want to go below that, so I’ve managed to put on 10 pounds (4.5kg) in the last couple of months, but only gain about 0.2% bodyfat in the process. Hopefully that means some muscle gains, I don’t ‘feel’ heavy when climbing so I’m thinking I’ll drop maybe half of that extra weight before Kalymnos and I should feel like I’m filled with helium, at least for a couple of days.
Aim for next week is to stick to the training plan a little better.
Nothing from the Ninja warrior people yet, but it’s early days.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cool, let me know when. Yes, Lee is on one side of a hill, Crag quarry is on top and my house is on the other side. I can't imagine Lee being much fun for circuits as it is on the side of a hill but Crag looks better as it is, overall, flat.
Cool, let me know when. Yes, Lee is on one side of a hill, Crag quarry is on top and my house is on the other side. I can't imagine Lee being much fun for circuits as it is on the side of a hill but Crag looks better as it is, overall, flat.
In reply to hms:
I'd second what nick is saying. Looking at it from a running perspective the week before a big race you can't get any fitter so there is no point doing something really long and hard. At the same time you don't want to rest completely or just bimble as you'll feel sluggish/ stale and your neuromuscular system is not as "switched on" and you loose tension in your muscles. The answer (and this is a lot easier to do in running than climbing) is to reduce the time running over the 5 days building up to the race but to keep some short fast bursts of running in there (60m fast and relaxed x 5 - its what I'll call strides) to keep muscle tension and neuromusclar system on. Its like telling your body that although you are resting it can't switch off completely as it might have to go full out tomorrow.
In climbing terms you could do a routes session but only half the volume 4 or 5 days out and then 2 days before going a short boulder session to make sure you've still got the stimulus to the neuromuscular system ie warm-up, a few hard problems (5? 10?) but not max hard and then good warm down. you shouldn't feel worked after either of those, you want to leave feeling like you only just got started. Good luck in Spain.
I'd second what nick is saying. Looking at it from a running perspective the week before a big race you can't get any fitter so there is no point doing something really long and hard. At the same time you don't want to rest completely or just bimble as you'll feel sluggish/ stale and your neuromuscular system is not as "switched on" and you loose tension in your muscles. The answer (and this is a lot easier to do in running than climbing) is to reduce the time running over the 5 days building up to the race but to keep some short fast bursts of running in there (60m fast and relaxed x 5 - its what I'll call strides) to keep muscle tension and neuromusclar system on. Its like telling your body that although you are resting it can't switch off completely as it might have to go full out tomorrow.
In climbing terms you could do a routes session but only half the volume 4 or 5 days out and then 2 days before going a short boulder session to make sure you've still got the stimulus to the neuromuscular system ie warm-up, a few hard problems (5? 10?) but not max hard and then good warm down. you shouldn't feel worked after either of those, you want to leave feeling like you only just got started. Good luck in Spain.
In reply to Humperdink, Nick, Andy et al:
Thanks for all the input from everyone. I'm really intrigued that the Fitclub consensus and what I was told by my coach are so different! So, current amended plan would by S&C tonight, fingerboard on Tues and a routes session (definitely not bimble but nothing too stupidly intense) on Weds. First day climbing in Spain on Friday although that's a half day really.
Goal for the trip is something in the 7s every day, and to bag at least 1 7b or above. I have a couple of 7c recommendations so definitely plan to try out at least one and see if it feels possible. If it does then hammer it, if not move on and try another one somewhere else. If the timescale turns out to be too short to nail it then consider the trip as a valuable recce and plan to return (as opposed to getting all despondant which really isn't very helpful!)
As ever, I have no intention of taking a laptop or anything, so won't be posting for 1 week.
Thanks for all the input from everyone. I'm really intrigued that the Fitclub consensus and what I was told by my coach are so different! So, current amended plan would by S&C tonight, fingerboard on Tues and a routes session (definitely not bimble but nothing too stupidly intense) on Weds. First day climbing in Spain on Friday although that's a half day really.
Goal for the trip is something in the 7s every day, and to bag at least 1 7b or above. I have a couple of 7c recommendations so definitely plan to try out at least one and see if it feels possible. If it does then hammer it, if not move on and try another one somewhere else. If the timescale turns out to be too short to nail it then consider the trip as a valuable recce and plan to return (as opposed to getting all despondant which really isn't very helpful!)
As ever, I have no intention of taking a laptop or anything, so won't be posting for 1 week.
Post edited at 13:52
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick. It was so close, gutted!
Last week: Trying to work my power endurance, anyone have any tips for doing this on routes that are about 15 moves long. Climb up and down, climb twice?
M - Core session. Wk 1 of gym ball routine. 5x5 pull ups (+5kg). 5x5 push ups (+5kg).
T - Wall. Power Endurance Session. The routes are a bit short at the wall for this, so to get to around 30 moves I’ll climb halfway up, down climb to the bottom, then all the way to the top. Which kind of worked but the down climb can be awkward on some harder routes. Anyone else offer some ideas to get around that? I could just lower off and climb the route again straight away,, but that would give a brief 10 - 15 seconds of rest in the middle, or does that not really matter?
6b+, 6b+, 6b+. 6b+, 6c, 6c (failure), 6c (failure), 6b.
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Core. Wk 1 of gym ball. 5x5 pull ups (+5kg). 5x5 push ups (+6kg).
Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between sets:
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (-2kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (-2kg), 35° sloper (-2kg).
S - Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (-1kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (-1kg), 35° sloper (-1kg).
+1kg all grips
S - Wall. Bouldering. Working hard problems, but feeling weak. Made some progress on a v6, but no ticks.
Thanks Nick. It was so close, gutted!
Last week: Trying to work my power endurance, anyone have any tips for doing this on routes that are about 15 moves long. Climb up and down, climb twice?
M - Core session. Wk 1 of gym ball routine. 5x5 pull ups (+5kg). 5x5 push ups (+5kg).
T - Wall. Power Endurance Session. The routes are a bit short at the wall for this, so to get to around 30 moves I’ll climb halfway up, down climb to the bottom, then all the way to the top. Which kind of worked but the down climb can be awkward on some harder routes. Anyone else offer some ideas to get around that? I could just lower off and climb the route again straight away,, but that would give a brief 10 - 15 seconds of rest in the middle, or does that not really matter?
6b+, 6b+, 6b+. 6b+, 6c, 6c (failure), 6c (failure), 6b.
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Core. Wk 1 of gym ball. 5x5 pull ups (+5kg). 5x5 push ups (+6kg).
Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between sets:
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (-2kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (-2kg), 35° sloper (-2kg).
S - Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (-1kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (-1kg), 35° sloper (-1kg).
+1kg all grips
S - Wall. Bouldering. Working hard problems, but feeling weak. Made some progress on a v6, but no ticks.
In reply to Creedence:
I've always found down-climbing a lot more effort than going upwards - and some routes don't really seem to down-climb at all. You could just do the downclimb on something a grade or so easier than the main route.
I've always found down-climbing a lot more effort than going upwards - and some routes don't really seem to down-climb at all. You could just do the downclimb on something a grade or so easier than the main route.
In reply to Creedence:
Shouldn't take long to be lowered off - I'd just do that and do it on a slightly harder grade to compensate for the slight rest. Downclimbing is a faff...
Shouldn't take long to be lowered off - I'd just do that and do it on a slightly harder grade to compensate for the slight rest. Downclimbing is a faff...
In reply to AJM:
Thanks, (and hms too). I'll switch to just going up twice then. Will make my elbows happier too.
Thanks, (and hms too). I'll switch to just going up twice then. Will make my elbows happier too.
In reply to Creedence:
I'd have thought 15 moves was about the correct length for power endurance.
> Trying to work my power endurance, anyone have any tips for doing this on routes that are about 15 moves long. Climb up and down, climb twice
I'd have thought 15 moves was about the correct length for power endurance.
In reply to mbh:
Thanks yeah I'm quite pleased. In fairness that 72.5 was partly Christmas pudding and festive cheer so the first few kilos were easy to shed. Still glad I hit the target I said I would hit when I said I'd hit it!
But three years ago I was 23kgs heavier and was not really thinking about Font 7B as a thing I would ever contemplate.
Bmi 21.9 now and fairly happy with that, don't need it to go much lower.
Thanks yeah I'm quite pleased. In fairness that 72.5 was partly Christmas pudding and festive cheer so the first few kilos were easy to shed. Still glad I hit the target I said I would hit when I said I'd hit it!
But three years ago I was 23kgs heavier and was not really thinking about Font 7B as a thing I would ever contemplate.
Bmi 21.9 now and fairly happy with that, don't need it to go much lower.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Nick- not such a great week this week: v busy at work, so lots of hanging around in doorways and not enough hanging at the wall (hmmm...looking back at it, that statement could be somewhat ambiguous).
Goals:
MTG-
Indoors 6c.
Trad- Onsight HVS (VS at present)
LTG (end of year?..)
Trad- Lead E1.
Have a reasonable punt at 7a indoors.
Mon- worked late- nothing apart from 50 press ups before bed.
Tues- meetings until late. Went to AW late so only got in 6 routes- 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b (not clean), 6b (not clean), 6b+. Did a overhung 6b+ clean which is my highest yet, so chuffed with that. 80 press ups before bed.
Wed- nothing.
Thurs- 12 mile cycle commute. nil climbing. Frenchies- 1 set of 4, 2 sets of 3. Ouch. 4 x 40 press ups.
Fri- Beastmaker (App) 5c routine- 2 laps- 76/84- nudging my way towards completing the 2nd lap- best score so far. Find "middle two" the worst.
Sat- nothing but 3 x wrist roller with 5kg weight. Family extravaganza for rest of day.
Sun- a 60 mins intensive weights and kettlebell session, mostly focusing on core, chest and shoulders: bench press, chest flyes, ab wheel, military press, clean and press, upright row, press ups, L-sits. Will be aching tomorrow.
Thanks Nick- not such a great week this week: v busy at work, so lots of hanging around in doorways and not enough hanging at the wall (hmmm...looking back at it, that statement could be somewhat ambiguous).
Goals:
MTG-
Indoors 6c.
Trad- Onsight HVS (VS at present)
LTG (end of year?..)
Trad- Lead E1.
Have a reasonable punt at 7a indoors.
Mon- worked late- nothing apart from 50 press ups before bed.
Tues- meetings until late. Went to AW late so only got in 6 routes- 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b (not clean), 6b (not clean), 6b+. Did a overhung 6b+ clean which is my highest yet, so chuffed with that. 80 press ups before bed.
Wed- nothing.
Thurs- 12 mile cycle commute. nil climbing. Frenchies- 1 set of 4, 2 sets of 3. Ouch. 4 x 40 press ups.
Fri- Beastmaker (App) 5c routine- 2 laps- 76/84- nudging my way towards completing the 2nd lap- best score so far. Find "middle two" the worst.
Sat- nothing but 3 x wrist roller with 5kg weight. Family extravaganza for rest of day.
Sun- a 60 mins intensive weights and kettlebell session, mostly focusing on core, chest and shoulders: bench press, chest flyes, ab wheel, military press, clean and press, upright row, press ups, L-sits. Will be aching tomorrow.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick! Luckily I was on the front row which helped but you have to kind of get somewhere near the front but not right at the front because there are plenty of people who 2K in have run their race and you need to make sure you're not one of them! I read in Athletics weekly this morning the the guy first up the hill finished in about 750th - here ends the lesson!!
M: am - jog to work 15min, 1/2M, pm - run home felt good 8M in 54:44
Tu: am - run to work, 4.5M in 31:48, pm - run home 8M in 53:09
W: am - jog to work, 15mins 1/2M, pm - run home 9M in 59:36
Th: am - run to work 4.5M in 32:12, pm - run home 9M in 58:40
F: am - run to work 4.5M in 32:25, pm - run home 4.5M in 33:44 (that all looks a bit monotonous!
Sa: am - Grass session - 3 x (3x3min) 1min recovery between reps, 4 min recovery between sets. Felt pretty good. pm - went to watch Revolution Track cycling @ the Olympic Velodrome - those guys/girls are fast! Got back late (12:30am)
Su: tired from late night, very steady long run with the wife 14/15M in 1:52:51
~80M total, nicely into the routine of this sort of mileage now so coping ok with it. Wouldn't like to go higher though! Last big race of the XC season on Sat and then early Sunday we are off to Portugal for a week of warm weather training . Probably won't have internet so I'll be after a pass for the next two weeks please
> Humperdink - Well done in the National XC! The start of that race looked mental, don't know how you manage to fight your way to the front in that scrum!
Thanks Nick! Luckily I was on the front row which helped but you have to kind of get somewhere near the front but not right at the front because there are plenty of people who 2K in have run their race and you need to make sure you're not one of them! I read in Athletics weekly this morning the the guy first up the hill finished in about 750th - here ends the lesson!!
M: am - jog to work 15min, 1/2M, pm - run home felt good 8M in 54:44
Tu: am - run to work, 4.5M in 31:48, pm - run home 8M in 53:09
W: am - jog to work, 15mins 1/2M, pm - run home 9M in 59:36
Th: am - run to work 4.5M in 32:12, pm - run home 9M in 58:40
F: am - run to work 4.5M in 32:25, pm - run home 4.5M in 33:44 (that all looks a bit monotonous!
Sa: am - Grass session - 3 x (3x3min) 1min recovery between reps, 4 min recovery between sets. Felt pretty good. pm - went to watch Revolution Track cycling @ the Olympic Velodrome - those guys/girls are fast! Got back late (12:30am)
Su: tired from late night, very steady long run with the wife 14/15M in 1:52:51
~80M total, nicely into the routine of this sort of mileage now so coping ok with it. Wouldn't like to go higher though! Last big race of the XC season on Sat and then early Sunday we are off to Portugal for a week of warm weather training . Probably won't have internet so I'll be after a pass for the next two weeks please
In reply to Lancer:
V impressive BM numbers there. Surely that can't be your weakness, HVS must be well within reach!
V impressive BM numbers there. Surely that can't be your weakness, HVS must be well within reach!
In reply to Mutl3y:
Thanks- the dreaded BM seems to be helping my strength on indoor routes, and on the few grit solos I have done so far this year- so hopefully "operation HVS" is moving along nicely, albeit just needing more daylight hours and less snow/ hail. Although not sure I will ever complete 3 laps. It's an evil routine.
Thanks- the dreaded BM seems to be helping my strength on indoor routes, and on the few grit solos I have done so far this year- so hopefully "operation HVS" is moving along nicely, albeit just needing more daylight hours and less snow/ hail. Although not sure I will ever complete 3 laps. It's an evil routine.
In reply to mbh:
Morning Camper,
Get in! That is what is technically known as a 'proper job' on the ol' Grizzly there - whoop whoop!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Camper,
Get in! That is what is technically known as a 'proper job' on the ol' Grizzly there - whoop whoop!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
1
In reply to Lancer:
Agreed. I can't see why you'd need to either - specially not for grit or bouldering. My longer term plan is to carry on with two laps until I can ace the first then up the difficulty. I think....hmmm maybe should up the difficulty sooner. Going to give this thought. Life is too short for three laps tho, better to make the hangs harder firs I reckon.
> Although not sure I will ever complete 3 laps. It's an evil routine.
Agreed. I can't see why you'd need to either - specially not for grit or bouldering. My longer term plan is to carry on with two laps until I can ace the first then up the difficulty. I think....hmmm maybe should up the difficulty sooner. Going to give this thought. Life is too short for three laps tho, better to make the hangs harder firs I reckon.
1
In reply to Mutl3y:
Morning Camper,
Park Runs are great! First up, it's free to register online (you just need to print off your bar code if you want a time and for Park Run to keep a note of your times each week and PBs etc.). You don't to be registered or have your bar code to do the run. Enter the funnel at the finish anyway and you'll get a plastic 'position' bar code. This has your position written on it in red. It'll get bipped by an official and then, later, you'll be able to see your time on the Park Run website - use your position to find yourself on there as you'll be listed as an Unknown Runner. The whole atmosphere is really friendly and supportive; all new Park Runners get a cheer before the off and everyone claps for those who've done 10, 25, 50, 100 runs etc. There's always someone slower than you too so don't ever worry about coming last, just do your own funky thing and enjoy being out early on a Saturday morning while the world stumbles out of bed, knowing that you're having an ace time and the whole day is yours! Finally, once you've worked out where your local course starts and finishes, you can, if registered, go and run the 5K at other times, timing yourself, and enter it on your profile on the website as a memorable run.
Get on it.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Camper,
Park Runs are great! First up, it's free to register online (you just need to print off your bar code if you want a time and for Park Run to keep a note of your times each week and PBs etc.). You don't to be registered or have your bar code to do the run. Enter the funnel at the finish anyway and you'll get a plastic 'position' bar code. This has your position written on it in red. It'll get bipped by an official and then, later, you'll be able to see your time on the Park Run website - use your position to find yourself on there as you'll be listed as an Unknown Runner. The whole atmosphere is really friendly and supportive; all new Park Runners get a cheer before the off and everyone claps for those who've done 10, 25, 50, 100 runs etc. There's always someone slower than you too so don't ever worry about coming last, just do your own funky thing and enjoy being out early on a Saturday morning while the world stumbles out of bed, knowing that you're having an ace time and the whole day is yours! Finally, once you've worked out where your local course starts and finishes, you can, if registered, go and run the 5K at other times, timing yourself, and enter it on your profile on the website as a memorable run.
Get on it.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Morning Campers,
Danka (totally fluent in German after a week in Les Alpes - ahem!) Nick, might catch you down TCA this Wednesday or Thursday from 5 ish.
Not the best week, I was actually a bit pooped after a week on the 'board and had had a really silly super slow speed crash that jarred my shoulder a tiny bit. It felt odd last week so I took it canny and rested up. When I got outside on Sunday, I realised that two full weeks without any clambering action or related exercises is faaaaaaaar too long. Took it easy because of the shoulder but back in the game tonight - psyche well and truly restored - whoop whoop!
Training Diary WC 23/02/15
Maximum Strength Training Week 1/3
Monday – Short BM fingerboard session. Managed new record of 6 pull ups on 35º sloper and 5 pull ups on small 4 finger crimps at end of warm up. Tried max hang pyramids starting with 2 finger pockets - not quite ready for this yet. One armer practice - 1 x sets of six sagging (read collapsing) locks each side. Sacked it off as it was late.
Tuesday – Tabata session 1/6: 20s sprint, 10s jog x 8 reps. Slightly up hill. Felt great, need to push harder next time. Also did 400m in 73s (as part of a 5 min mile goal, that’s in – whoop whoop!).
Wednesday – Rest. Think a week of snowboarding has caught up with me.
Thursday – Rest. Odd tweaked muscle in front (anterior – ooh, get me) of left shoulder made moving it clicky and ‘odd’. Having had mucho shoulder problems and operations in the past, I decided a rest was in order.
Friday – Shoulder feeling a tad better. Running; Tabata session 2/6: 20s sprint, 10s rest x 10 reps. Then went for a ‘fastest mile’ attempt for fun, managed ¼ mile in 79s then stopped as legs were empty after the sprints.
Saturday – The mighty ‘Sham. Took it very cannily so as not to damage the shoulder. Noticed that, after 2 weeks off of climbing my footwork and coordination was nowhere. Didn’t really get warm all day, didn’t achieve much but did find out two possible ways to do the baffling Shoehorn – both of which seem desperate. Stopped as soon as shoulder let me know it was there (after about 3 hours or so). Good to have a giggle with Tom and Ross though.
Sunday – Rest (work), lets get back on it next week,eh?
Weight 72.6kg
Right then, goals:
STG (by Easter):
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both).
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power
Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness
MTG (by September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them!
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
Keep up the good work kids!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Danka (totally fluent in German after a week in Les Alpes - ahem!) Nick, might catch you down TCA this Wednesday or Thursday from 5 ish.
Not the best week, I was actually a bit pooped after a week on the 'board and had had a really silly super slow speed crash that jarred my shoulder a tiny bit. It felt odd last week so I took it canny and rested up. When I got outside on Sunday, I realised that two full weeks without any clambering action or related exercises is faaaaaaaar too long. Took it easy because of the shoulder but back in the game tonight - psyche well and truly restored - whoop whoop!
Training Diary WC 23/02/15
Maximum Strength Training Week 1/3
Monday – Short BM fingerboard session. Managed new record of 6 pull ups on 35º sloper and 5 pull ups on small 4 finger crimps at end of warm up. Tried max hang pyramids starting with 2 finger pockets - not quite ready for this yet. One armer practice - 1 x sets of six sagging (read collapsing) locks each side. Sacked it off as it was late.
Tuesday – Tabata session 1/6: 20s sprint, 10s jog x 8 reps. Slightly up hill. Felt great, need to push harder next time. Also did 400m in 73s (as part of a 5 min mile goal, that’s in – whoop whoop!).
Wednesday – Rest. Think a week of snowboarding has caught up with me.
Thursday – Rest. Odd tweaked muscle in front (anterior – ooh, get me) of left shoulder made moving it clicky and ‘odd’. Having had mucho shoulder problems and operations in the past, I decided a rest was in order.
Friday – Shoulder feeling a tad better. Running; Tabata session 2/6: 20s sprint, 10s rest x 10 reps. Then went for a ‘fastest mile’ attempt for fun, managed ¼ mile in 79s then stopped as legs were empty after the sprints.
Saturday – The mighty ‘Sham. Took it very cannily so as not to damage the shoulder. Noticed that, after 2 weeks off of climbing my footwork and coordination was nowhere. Didn’t really get warm all day, didn’t achieve much but did find out two possible ways to do the baffling Shoehorn – both of which seem desperate. Stopped as soon as shoulder let me know it was there (after about 3 hours or so). Good to have a giggle with Tom and Ross though.
Sunday – Rest (work), lets get back on it next week,eh?
Weight 72.6kg
Right then, goals:
STG (by Easter):
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both).
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power
Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness
MTG (by September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them!
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
Keep up the good work kids!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Nick Russell:
May jump back on the wagon for a few weeks. I've been lacking motivation to report anything lately; mainly because I havent dont anything.
The Lakes 50 is screaming towards us now at a frightening pace so time to get some running done, even if we have to crowbar it in and do some solo runs. For reasons I wont go into, Im wary of going to isolated trails on my own so it'll be local trails/ roads for me.
Our new puppy is a gorgeous, hilariously clumsy squidgebug and I cant wait for him to grow and join us on runs but for now my schedule in most things is fitting around his needs. Add kids and two full time jobs between us into the mix and there isnt much time left to do stuff. As soon as the little fella is in day care I'll be back to riding to work, which is better than nothing.
Where can I buy an extra few hours in a day??
May jump back on the wagon for a few weeks. I've been lacking motivation to report anything lately; mainly because I havent dont anything.
The Lakes 50 is screaming towards us now at a frightening pace so time to get some running done, even if we have to crowbar it in and do some solo runs. For reasons I wont go into, Im wary of going to isolated trails on my own so it'll be local trails/ roads for me.
Our new puppy is a gorgeous, hilariously clumsy squidgebug and I cant wait for him to grow and join us on runs but for now my schedule in most things is fitting around his needs. Add kids and two full time jobs between us into the mix and there isnt much time left to do stuff. As soon as the little fella is in day care I'll be back to riding to work, which is better than nothing.
Where can I buy an extra few hours in a day??
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing FC Nick, and nice trad tick on your side, I hope to get outdoors tomorrow and give the only trad route of the crag a try. I didn’t get on my project, but still see improvements in bouldering.
Weight: 75.0
M: indoor bouldering, felt strong, managed to reach top hold on a 6B+ on the ‘hard’ wall first go, but slid off it which resulted in a flapper, so end of session
T: rest
W: roped climbing at a new wall, did routes up to 6a
T: interval running and shoulder + core
F: rest
S: 2 hours of ice skating and a quick 45 min bouldering session
S: running up the local bump, good to practice (steep) uphill running
Thanks for doing FC Nick, and nice trad tick on your side, I hope to get outdoors tomorrow and give the only trad route of the crag a try. I didn’t get on my project, but still see improvements in bouldering.
Weight: 75.0
M: indoor bouldering, felt strong, managed to reach top hold on a 6B+ on the ‘hard’ wall first go, but slid off it which resulted in a flapper, so end of session
T: rest
W: roped climbing at a new wall, did routes up to 6a
T: interval running and shoulder + core
F: rest
S: 2 hours of ice skating and a quick 45 min bouldering session
S: running up the local bump, good to practice (steep) uphill running
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers Nick.
Maintenance is for losers! I want improvements
Happy to report i got some.
2 after work autobelay sessions were worthwhile. Doubling up the new 7a+ was good, probably soft though. Then a day off and a benchmarking session with PPG.
The idea is to train for 3 weeks and every 4th week, when new routes are set on one of the main walls, to get onsighting.
Went well with a 6c+ ( was 7a but downgraded), and 2 7a's onsighted. Last time 6c+ was my best. Also worked a 7b, but it has a brick hard stopper move, so may not go back to it.
So, i'll continue with the after work snatched sessions and hopefully see gains still coming.
Next benchmark sessions i need to try 7a+ on-sight and in between start doubling the 7a's as training.
Cheers Nick.
Maintenance is for losers! I want improvements
Happy to report i got some.
2 after work autobelay sessions were worthwhile. Doubling up the new 7a+ was good, probably soft though. Then a day off and a benchmarking session with PPG.
The idea is to train for 3 weeks and every 4th week, when new routes are set on one of the main walls, to get onsighting.
Went well with a 6c+ ( was 7a but downgraded), and 2 7a's onsighted. Last time 6c+ was my best. Also worked a 7b, but it has a brick hard stopper move, so may not go back to it.
So, i'll continue with the after work snatched sessions and hopefully see gains still coming.
Next benchmark sessions i need to try 7a+ on-sight and in between start doubling the 7a's as training.
Post edited at 11:24
In reply to Nick Russell:
I meant to post the other week and say congrats to Jimmy and Jake. Some pretty good results there guys.
Fingers crossed for Ally and Fisheye this week
I meant to post the other week and say congrats to Jimmy and Jake. Some pretty good results there guys.
Fingers crossed for Ally and Fisheye this week
1
In reply to biscuit:
What's the new 7a+? Is that the new white 6c+ as was or the new pink 7b+ as was or something in the tower?
What's the new 7a+? Is that the new white 6c+ as was or the new pink 7b+ as was or something in the tower?
In reply to Mutl3y:
That's not a bad idea- I was thinking recently that 3 laps was not only time-consuming, but possibly a little OTT. Might follow your lead- stick to 2 laps and just increase the grade- will see how I get on this week.
> Agreed. I can't see why you'd need to either - specially not for grit or bouldering. My longer term plan is to carry on with two laps until I can ace the first then up the difficulty.
That's not a bad idea- I was thinking recently that 3 laps was not only time-consuming, but possibly a little OTT. Might follow your lead- stick to 2 laps and just increase the grade- will see how I get on this week.
Anybody here want to do the stats on the 15th? I may be able to do it (if Miguel has wifi these days ) but no guarantees.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick!
Following on from my lack of motivation thread I'm getting me some motivation! Planning on doing a baby triathlon this year, so going to start cycling into work on occasion too - about 7 miles each way, pretty flat although I can make it alot steeper/longer on the return leg I expect. Need to start doing some running again, the last run I did I overdid it massively without realising then couldnt walk for a few days - very annoyed.
STG- Get some structure in what the hell I'm doing with everything
MTG- 2km swim under an hour, get comfortable running again, cycle lots. All working toward triathlon fitness. Climbing start ticking V4s consistently inside. Onsight/flash 6c+ outside.
LTG- RP 7b+, Onsight E2, onsight Highway One fairly comfortably, triathlon
Last 2 weeks been sick with flu and got nothing done - very depressing.
This week so far and plan
S- Couple of E1s in Avon gorge before the rain, went well but got more pumped than I would have expected
M- Bouldering session - disappointing, but following on my recent thread I have lots of ideas on how to get more out of it
T- 1 mile swim today, felt strong and did it well under an hour. 2km in an hour is the next target, aiming for 2.5km in an hour in the future.
W- Bouldering - circuits or outside routes
T- Swim before work then hopefully a few routes in the afternoon. If weather is rubbish swim after work
F- Short run after work then drive down South
S/S- Easyish trad at Swanage with my wife hopefully. If its Sunday definitely easy trad as the hangover will be limiting...
Thanks Nick!
Following on from my lack of motivation thread I'm getting me some motivation! Planning on doing a baby triathlon this year, so going to start cycling into work on occasion too - about 7 miles each way, pretty flat although I can make it alot steeper/longer on the return leg I expect. Need to start doing some running again, the last run I did I overdid it massively without realising then couldnt walk for a few days - very annoyed.
STG- Get some structure in what the hell I'm doing with everything
MTG- 2km swim under an hour, get comfortable running again, cycle lots. All working toward triathlon fitness. Climbing start ticking V4s consistently inside. Onsight/flash 6c+ outside.
LTG- RP 7b+, Onsight E2, onsight Highway One fairly comfortably, triathlon
Last 2 weeks been sick with flu and got nothing done - very depressing.
This week so far and plan
S- Couple of E1s in Avon gorge before the rain, went well but got more pumped than I would have expected
M- Bouldering session - disappointing, but following on my recent thread I have lots of ideas on how to get more out of it
T- 1 mile swim today, felt strong and did it well under an hour. 2km in an hour is the next target, aiming for 2.5km in an hour in the future.
W- Bouldering - circuits or outside routes
T- Swim before work then hopefully a few routes in the afternoon. If weather is rubbish swim after work
F- Short run after work then drive down South
S/S- Easyish trad at Swanage with my wife hopefully. If its Sunday definitely easy trad as the hangover will be limiting...
Post edited at 18:59
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Welcome welcome...!
In reply to Nick Russell:
I can do it as a last resort if you get no keener takers...
Welcome welcome...!
In reply to Nick Russell:
I can do it as a last resort if you get no keener takers...
2
In reply to Joyce:
Evening rambler, what a lovely and super enthusiastic response! I might give that running thing a bash, just for a laugh. Can't see it helping with my weighted pull ups but might be fun.
Good luck with all your training. And you should go to plantation some time. You can look at torque and there's plenty of other stuff to crack on with.
M
Evening rambler, what a lovely and super enthusiastic response! I might give that running thing a bash, just for a laugh. Can't see it helping with my weighted pull ups but might be fun.
Good luck with all your training. And you should go to plantation some time. You can look at torque and there's plenty of other stuff to crack on with.
M
In reply to Lancer:
Yep overkill. Grit HVS if you just want to tick any of them you don't need to be all that strong at all. I can think of quite a few if you are soloing vs on Burbage then no problem.
Be great when we get a dry few days eh?
Yep overkill. Grit HVS if you just want to tick any of them you don't need to be all that strong at all. I can think of quite a few if you are soloing vs on Burbage then no problem.
Be great when we get a dry few days eh?
In reply to Mutl3y:
What is this alien concept you speak of?!
> Be great when we get a dry few days eh?
What is this alien concept you speak of?!
In reply to Joyce:
Thank you Joyce! Sub 3:00 is next year's target, which would put me 8th in the M50 category, and in the top 7%. There's a challenge for me! I'll need to keep running to get a shot at that. An M60 did it this year in 2:56 something - inspiration! I see on runbritain that in 2014 he ran 18/38/65 minutes for 5k/10k/10m and did a marathon in about 3:05. I can't do any of that. We'll see how close I get. Cheers, anyway!
Thank you Joyce! Sub 3:00 is next year's target, which would put me 8th in the M50 category, and in the top 7%. There's a challenge for me! I'll need to keep running to get a shot at that. An M60 did it this year in 2:56 something - inspiration! I see on runbritain that in 2014 he ran 18/38/65 minutes for 5k/10k/10m and did a marathon in about 3:05. I can't do any of that. We'll see how close I get. Cheers, anyway!
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Welcome! Your other thread did make me wonder if you'd find your way here.
If you need any advice on the swimming, let me know. I know that people without a swimming background often find it the hardest part of a triathlon and a bit of technique can go a long way!
Welcome! Your other thread did make me wonder if you'd find your way here.
If you need any advice on the swimming, let me know. I know that people without a swimming background often find it the hardest part of a triathlon and a bit of technique can go a long way!
In reply to Tyler:
Nothing that exciting I'm afraid, it's on the auto belay.
My after work sessions involve just sticking my harness on and doubling everything up to 7a/ +,short rest, then doubles of the 7a/+ until I run out of time and one warm down route.
Got two true blus now. One with a cruxy 7a+ on it and one with a nice sustained 7a.
Nothing that exciting I'm afraid, it's on the auto belay.
My after work sessions involve just sticking my harness on and doubling everything up to 7a/ +,short rest, then doubles of the 7a/+ until I run out of time and one warm down route.
Got two true blus now. One with a cruxy 7a+ on it and one with a nice sustained 7a.
Post edited at 15:40
In reply to Nick Russell:
This should go in next week's really but.....
I just beat the pink ear muff wearing whippet!! And I was not completely destroyed (mostly destroyed though), I went on to run another 2 miles of hills.
There was only 2 secs in it - 4:18 - 4:16. She may have just been jogging and snatch it straight back, we'll see.
Flippin' people suggesting Strava - just look what you gone done! :p
This should go in next week's really but.....
I just beat the pink ear muff wearing whippet!! And I was not completely destroyed (mostly destroyed though), I went on to run another 2 miles of hills.
There was only 2 secs in it - 4:18 - 4:16. She may have just been jogging and snatch it straight back, we'll see.
Flippin' people suggesting Strava - just look what you gone done! :p
3
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers Nick. I feel like my technique isnt too bad, but I need to focus on it more when I'm going for it! Tend to end up with everything going a bit haywire rather than keeping a good technique but pulling harder. Or something like that anyway. I think my main stumbling block is going to be the running. Hardly done anything, ever.
Good session at TCA this afternoon, ticked a super crimpy V4/5, repeated a few V4s and ticked a couple other V3s and V4s including cruising first go the one I failed on on Monday.
Cheers Nick. I feel like my technique isnt too bad, but I need to focus on it more when I'm going for it! Tend to end up with everything going a bit haywire rather than keeping a good technique but pulling harder. Or something like that anyway. I think my main stumbling block is going to be the running. Hardly done anything, ever.
Good session at TCA this afternoon, ticked a super crimpy V4/5, repeated a few V4s and ticked a couple other V3s and V4s including cruising first go the one I failed on on Monday.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
What distance tri are you thinking of doing? I'm planning on doing a sprint this year, but haven't picked an event yet, spose I should to concentrate my mind and efforts. Its kinda difficult training for four sports all at once.
What distance tri are you thinking of doing? I'm planning on doing a sprint this year, but haven't picked an event yet, spose I should to concentrate my mind and efforts. Its kinda difficult training for four sports all at once.
In reply to Ian Rock:
Probably olympic distance. Or some sort of adventure style one. I dont intend on taking it too seriously, would just like to complete one and see how I get on.
Probably olympic distance. Or some sort of adventure style one. I dont intend on taking it too seriously, would just like to complete one and see how I get on.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick. Despite no rock, managed to get some good work in the gym including my first 7a onsight lead. Feel strong (though possibly not rested!) from my holiday, so hopefully good gains to be made back in UK. Dying to get out on rock though!
M – Boulder/TR Boulder Rock Club volume session. Passed the TR test so can do the lead one next time! Great gym this – views of the snow-covered rock from the hangboard…
T – Crosscountry skiing Eldora. Lovely day so drove through snow-covered Boulder Canyon to find somewhere where snow was useful. My first go at crosscountry and enjoyed it, though will leave it until I’m old and can’t do alpine anymore methinks.
W – Boulder at Boulder Rock Club. Leading test then pyramid up to a top end 5.11+ onsight and then some bouldering. Eventually flew in the evening after sitting on a de-icing plane for 3 hours.
T – Back, work, massive board meeting with goggle marks.
F – Boulder Milton Keynes (Thanks MrChewy for the yellow crimps heads up!) Tried all the finals problems that I should have done last Sunday if I was here. Pretty stiff!
S – Boulder Wirksworth WBL opening account. Got a slopery V4/5 first go which was pretty pleasing as I usually avoid those.
S – Boulder Wirksworth WBL. 179 points this round so best so far. One round to go.
Probably time for check in with goals….
STG specifics:
• Maintain fitness/climbing training while on skiing holiday and get in a few big multipitch routes in Colorado (12-25 Feb) – CHECK (ish). Good fitness and though no rock done, at least got good wall and cross-training sessions in.
• Qualify for Big Rock WBL senior women’s final (can’t actually do the final as am away skiing!) - CHECK!
• Win Wirksworth Senior women’s WBL (22 March) - On target for this
• Get fit for Font (28 March) - Definitely feeling boulder stronger so need to work on a bit of route fitness to add to that.
• Master the hulahoop pull-up (end of June)
MTG generals:
• Indoors: 3 x 7a, 1 x 7a+/7b - onsighted first 7a this week
• Consolidate E1/6c/V3 outside
• E2/7a/V4 in good style outside
• Maintain 5/6 training sessions a week throughout 2015
• Minimum 80 sessions on rock this year (72 in 2014) - 3 so far in 2015. Some serious catching up to do!
LTG:
• Learn to embrace failure (ha!)
Thanks Nick. Despite no rock, managed to get some good work in the gym including my first 7a onsight lead. Feel strong (though possibly not rested!) from my holiday, so hopefully good gains to be made back in UK. Dying to get out on rock though!
M – Boulder/TR Boulder Rock Club volume session. Passed the TR test so can do the lead one next time! Great gym this – views of the snow-covered rock from the hangboard…
T – Crosscountry skiing Eldora. Lovely day so drove through snow-covered Boulder Canyon to find somewhere where snow was useful. My first go at crosscountry and enjoyed it, though will leave it until I’m old and can’t do alpine anymore methinks.
W – Boulder at Boulder Rock Club. Leading test then pyramid up to a top end 5.11+ onsight and then some bouldering. Eventually flew in the evening after sitting on a de-icing plane for 3 hours.
T – Back, work, massive board meeting with goggle marks.
F – Boulder Milton Keynes (Thanks MrChewy for the yellow crimps heads up!) Tried all the finals problems that I should have done last Sunday if I was here. Pretty stiff!
S – Boulder Wirksworth WBL opening account. Got a slopery V4/5 first go which was pretty pleasing as I usually avoid those.
S – Boulder Wirksworth WBL. 179 points this round so best so far. One round to go.
Probably time for check in with goals….
STG specifics:
• Maintain fitness/climbing training while on skiing holiday and get in a few big multipitch routes in Colorado (12-25 Feb) – CHECK (ish). Good fitness and though no rock done, at least got good wall and cross-training sessions in.
• Qualify for Big Rock WBL senior women’s final (can’t actually do the final as am away skiing!) - CHECK!
• Win Wirksworth Senior women’s WBL (22 March) - On target for this
• Get fit for Font (28 March) - Definitely feeling boulder stronger so need to work on a bit of route fitness to add to that.
• Master the hulahoop pull-up (end of June)
MTG generals:
• Indoors: 3 x 7a, 1 x 7a+/7b - onsighted first 7a this week
• Consolidate E1/6c/V3 outside
• E2/7a/V4 in good style outside
• Maintain 5/6 training sessions a week throughout 2015
• Minimum 80 sessions on rock this year (72 in 2014) - 3 so far in 2015. Some serious catching up to do!
LTG:
• Learn to embrace failure (ha!)
In reply to Nick Russell:
M: Rest
T: Work gym - Posterior chain stuff, 70kg Deadlifts etc.
W: Work gym - Posterior chain stuff, 70kg Deadlifts etc.
T: Boardroom - Couple of hours on routes for the first time in ages. Did some stuff up to 6b then repeatedly failed on a steep 6b+, still crap on steep indoor stuff so just kept trying it over and over again.
F: Work gym - Posterior chain stuff, 70kg Deadlifts etc.
S: Rest
S: Forecast only looked good until midday so went out local early to Ruthin Escarpment. Did "Pity the Billionaire" 6C and came close on the 7A sit but kept falling off the last move as problem got progressively more soaked... Used to be 6C+ from a sit but the massive shelf fell off, now a better problem.
More posterior chain stuff this week, seems to be helping my lower back/hamstring/glute flexability and strength. Hanging leg raises are certainly feeling nicer/easier. Aching with DOMS every day but that's only a good thing.
Nick: Atomic Pushups - www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wp6-x5Tg2gk
M: Rest
T: Work gym - Posterior chain stuff, 70kg Deadlifts etc.
W: Work gym - Posterior chain stuff, 70kg Deadlifts etc.
T: Boardroom - Couple of hours on routes for the first time in ages. Did some stuff up to 6b then repeatedly failed on a steep 6b+, still crap on steep indoor stuff so just kept trying it over and over again.
F: Work gym - Posterior chain stuff, 70kg Deadlifts etc.
S: Rest
S: Forecast only looked good until midday so went out local early to Ruthin Escarpment. Did "Pity the Billionaire" 6C and came close on the 7A sit but kept falling off the last move as problem got progressively more soaked... Used to be 6C+ from a sit but the massive shelf fell off, now a better problem.
More posterior chain stuff this week, seems to be helping my lower back/hamstring/glute flexability and strength. Hanging leg raises are certainly feeling nicer/easier. Aching with DOMS every day but that's only a good thing.
Nick: Atomic Pushups - www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wp6-x5Tg2gk
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