UKC

I have been struggling to find a harness which was simple enough yet comfortable enough to hang. The reason I want something like that as I have got two harnesses, Petzl Corax which is bulky and I hate having 4 buckles with no real need for that (it's a great harness for winter though!) and Petzl Hirundos which is far from comfortable to hang for longer than a minute. I bought it for a tenner (ish), so can't complain and I love how simple it is, but it's not durable either (got it replaced due to stitching being undone - it has seen only light use as my flatmate who had it didn't climb much and it has been used outdoors only twice).

Petzl Sama is an obvious choice, but looks like no one stocks them in Glasgow (apart from Decathlon). Edelrid Smith looks interesting and I wouldn't mind one, but I have never tried any Edelrid harnesses. Black Diamond Chaos is not common in shops either! Arcteryx harnesses are a little bit expensive and I don't think I would want to spend that much on a specialized harness.

Any suggestions where to try one out or any more recommendations? I am getting obsessed to get one, but need to find the right one first!

In reply to PPP:

Try harder to get a BD Chaos, it's worth the effort. I had an Arcteryx but the elastic at the back went all warped and funny. Artcteryx replaced it, without a quibble, but had to provide a slightly different model which is not nearly as comfortable as the original. Arctreyx harnesses are really light and pack small but I love the reassuring feel of my BD Chaos.

In reply to PPP:

I've got a petzl sama. Find that one it's loaded with a trad rack, it very easily starts to slide down my hips even with self locking buckles.

In reply to PPP:

I have no complaints about my DMM Renegade which I've had for about 7 years. The leg loops have an elasticated articulation which makes them simple yet comfortable.

In reply to Jimbo C:

...but the Renegade doesn't have fixed leg loops.

In reply to PPP:

I've been rather happy with my old fixed legloop 'Ryx R300, as well as the much cheaper Ocun options (Ego's, though the new WeBee 1's look good as well).

The only concern I have, is that for a hudge rack, the gearloops are kind of small... most of these fixed legloop harnesses are after all for sport...

In reply to PPP:
the latest BD Momentum has fixed leg loops that are adjustable so easy to put on. double back waist buckle too which is a bonus in my eyes, 4 gear loops and a haul line loop at the back which I use to attach my chalkbag.
they are sized quite small mind, I'm a 34 waist and I got the large but I could have gone for XL and still fit it comfortably.

In reply to PPP:

I think an earlier poster may have meant the DMM Maverick not the Renegade.

I've never used adjustable leg loops & tried one of these a while back but found the sizing a bit odd, the leg loops seemed too big for my correct waist size.

I ended up with a BD Momentum variant that they don't seem to do now; it has the "Trackfit" leg loops but has the double buckles on thee waist belt like the Momentum DS.
http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/search?cgid=harnesses
I get on fine with it but it probably isn't uber comfortable for hanging in for too long

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

"fixed leg loops that are adjustable" How does that work then?

In reply to tehmarks:


My bad, i think it's the Maverick, not the Renegade.

In reply to GridNorth:

They are fixed in that you can't undo the leg loops but you can widen the opening so if you have thunder thighs you can still get it on.

In reply to PPP:

Take a look at Camp Air. Very light, very slim, very comfortable even for long steep alpine routs with lots of hanging.
There art two versions: different rear gear loops and with or without places for carrytools.

In reply to PPP:

Thanks guys for comments, I am still not decided yet. Now looking at manufacturers like Ocun and Singing Rock, they have some cool harnesses too.

In reply to PPP:

I've got a Petzl Sama harness, even when loaded with a massive trad rack or winter rack its super comfy - best harness I've ever had!

Ollie.

In reply to PPP:

How comfortable it is to hang in does depend on how you are built as well. I don't like the fit of BD harnesses but friends swear by them. You really need to try, or get a bosuns chair for better comfort but maybe a bit overkill. Metolious makes a range of comfy harnesses but I'm not sure they are much less complicated or bulky. The traditional harnesses are comfy because they are bulky and cut into your legs less.

I have a corax and a hirundos as well but I use the corax in summer and the hirundos in winter instead. I personally don't see the corax bulkiness as much of a hindrance

In reply to PPP:

I know you said not arcterx but....the R300 is a great harness with fixed leg loops. They are super low profile which is why i like them, you barely know you have it on. Plenty of room for a full rack. Comfortable on all day routes, hanging belays (well to a point, obviously). And currently only 79quid at epicentre.

In reply to PPP:
Have a look at the BD Focus.

Just like the Chaos but it does have a handy back loop (not much of one) as well as the haul loop.

Banana fingers are selling it.

In reply to PPP:

Just an update. Received a Black Diamond Focus harness (couldn't find where to try it on, so had to order). It should be okay for hanging belays (simulated at home with a pull up bar), a great movement freedom and fits very nicely (I've got both Hirundos and Focus in Medium - Focus is a little bit on a bigger size). My only one concern was small gear loops, but each of them (except the 5th) accommodates up to 12 carabiners (3 cams, 4 hexes, 13 nuts, 5 offsets, 2 sets of micros ) at a push without making them too awkward. Belay loop does not look funny (Hirundos makes me laugh hysterically). Not sure if it's laminated or just very thin, but feels good. Maybe leg loops are a little bit stiff, but that might change over time.

That's going to be my go-to harness!