UKC

I've decided that on my rest days from harder climbing that I would like to learn how to trad climb. I don't want to rush things, I'd like to progress relatively slowly almost like a beginner to climbing would - but not quite. I know that from a physical perspective I could be climbing mid E grade climbs relatively quickly but at least to begin with, I'd like to get volume in at (relatively) lower grades for safety reasons really.

I have the book Trad Climbing + and although I haven't read it for many years I know it contained lots of good information. I think for the most part I could learn a lot of the information I need from it. I'm currently wondering about the trad equipment i'll require. Except half-ropes I have a decent limestone trad rack (2 sets of nuts, 1 set offset nuts, 1 set torque nuts, selection of slings, lots of draws) but in terms of grit climbing which is what I will mainly be on, I only have 3 cams. Think they are size 1,2 and 3 C4s. Would you recommend that I buy more cams? What are the most common sizes in the Low E's or is not as simple as that?

Any other relevant advice appreciated.

In reply to cha1n:


Obviously gear can be quite specific to a route, but I'd definitely buy more cams if I were you. A few smaller ones will be useful on most routes (smaller C4's maybe, and I really like the Totem Basics, always carry them because they don't weigh much).

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Thanks, I appreciate the advice. I was sort of assuming that the size of gear required would get smaller as the grades went up but I appreciate that perhaps some bold routes would have a cluster of good gear, followed by a run-out.

I would mostly be trying stuff with a higher tech grade and more gear, at least to begin with!

In reply to cha1n:


I suppose that's part of it, unless you pick something like an obvious wide crack. But you're not likely to want to carry a C4 #4, #5 and #6 with you anyway, unless you know you need it.


More gear is good, but the high tech grade might not mean it's a well protected route. Guidebook descriptions usually give you a better idea. Words like 'serious' and phrases like 'gear comes after the crux' should get your attention.

In reply to cha1n:


Now there's a put down!

In reply to cha1n:

having a relatively low adjectival grade doesn't necessarily mean you'll place more or less gear than on a lower grade route. I've climbed E2 routes that have taken almost no gear and some that have cleaned me out of wires. the same goes for some VS routes

You can climb most things with a full set of wires, some slingdraws, a selection of slings and a few cams and maybe a hex or two.

In reply to cha1n:

Grit eats cams like there's no tomorrow, and placing them (usually) takes little energy. You can also size up most routes from the ground and avoid taking (for example) your entire set of large cams when there are clearly no placements for them.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Great advice, thanks. Perhaps I'll get some finger crack sized cams too then. BananaFingers has 25% off cams at the moment!

Haha, Hat Dude I didn't mean for it to be an insult. I like that whilst some of the lower to mid-grade trad may be below my physical limit that it will still play havoc with my mind. I get very scared at the prospect of trad climbing, and have a lot of respect for trad climbers. I've only avoided it due to fear not out of dislike for the activity!

In reply to cha1n:

you need a rack for the rock regardless of grade - protection is protection no matter how hard the climbs are. I'd suggest getting a small pink tricam because they'll go wherever your thumb does

In reply to Toerag:

And, of course, placing your thumb for protection can leave you significantly handicapped further up the route