UKC

I will be going to California on a work trip during late May and I was planning on staying out for an extra 4 days and going climbing. I'll be working in Sacremento, but can hire a car and drive wherever. I've not been to California and am a little overwhelmed with the huge choice. As I'd be without a partner, I need to go somewhere where there would be people to hook up with. At the moment I'm pretty psyched on Bishop. It looks like it has great options for both bouldering and sport climbing at Owen River Gorge. I'm not adverse to trad climbing, but especially on a short trip without a partner prefer either bouldering or sport.

There are two things from people who know California. If you were in California and could just go to one place, would Bishop be a good choice? I guess late May might not be prime season in Bishop as it could be getting hot. Does anyone know if it's easy to just show up midweek and find people to climb? I'm very happy for recommendations for other places. I'd be interested in sport climbs in the 6c-7b range or bouldering in the V2-V5 range.

Cheers, Tony

In reply to TonyB:

Please feel free to ignore this suggestion at it doesn't exactly meet your needs and I've not traveled extensively in CA.

Yosemite.

If you haven't been you have to at some point. The trad and bouldering are amazing. You'll find partners there in camp 4... And it's Yosemite.

In reply to TonyB:

Bishop will be very hot at this time of year and as a result it will be harder to find partners - I was in Bishop in April (which is just out of season) a few years ago and there was barely anyone else there.

Yosemite is probably the best choice. Good time to go and loads of willing partners. It's got everything and it is amazing.

Lake Tahoe may also be possible but will need some planning.

Tahoe (South Lake or Donner) is an obvious choice driving from Sacramento. Guidebooks readily available. Should be able to find partners posting on MountainProject or SuperTopo.

Yosemite valley also very reachable from Sacramento.

Bishop in late May is normally very long drive from Sacramento. But if Tioga Pass road opens early this year it's not as long. Bishop itself is hot then, but there's lots more climbing + bouldering nearby at higher altitude a bit farther north around Mammoth Lakes. But not as easy to find partners because not much population (compared with Tahoe), and you'd be there "in between" seasons for tourist climbers.

Ken

In reply to kenr:


I was at Lover's Leap in September and posted on Mountain Project for partners, and ended up with too many responses. You'll obviously need internet though, and if you don't have mobile data you can get wi-fi at Strawberry Lodge, or the cafe/shop opposite the lodge (the shop also sells climbing gear). Both are a short walk from the campsite.

In reply to TonyB:

ORG is rubbish. About as good as Portland, which is okay but I wouldn't go specially.

Tahoe is great if you can find partners... but given the timings, the season, where you are for work, and that you've never been before, it really should be Yosemite. Even if you just want to go bouldering....

In reply to TonyB:
I'm sure you could have a great time in bishop but it would be a bit like coming to the UK and making the A55 crags your first choice.

I'd go to Yosemite first.

In reply to TonyB:

Yosemite. Since you've never been to California before, if there's any chance that you might not go again, go to Yosemite. It's like nowhere else in the world. Even if the weather is shit, just being there to look around is incredible.

Though known for the big wall stuff, there's a fair bit of single pitch sport and loads of bouldering.

The big win is that there will always be someone around to hook up with.

In reply to cdent:

If you go to Yosemite try to avoid the Memorial Day public holiday weekend if you can - May25th this year. We had trouble finding somewhere to stay when we were there over that holiday.

In reply to TonyB:

Hi Tony, its possible that I'll be over in San Francisco around then. I'll let you know if so as I'd love to take a couple of days off for some climbing.

In reply to all:

Thanks for all the comments and the resounding suggestions of Yosemite. The memorial day suggestion comment was useful, unfortunately that's exactly when I'll be there.

Dave, it would be great to go meet up. It's a surprise to hear from you and great if we can meet up. After Angelniemi and the like, climbing in Yosemite would be a real change! I'll send you an email.

Cheers, Tony

In reply to TonyB:

Tony I'll jump on the Yosemite band wagon but only because of it's ease for finding a partner. If you don't hook up with your friend get yourself to Camp 4 and either put a message on the notice board on the Rangers hut or just walk around camp and ask everyone that is hanging around. Someone will climb with you. You could also put a post on Supertopo

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum.php

but I guarantee someone will respond with the words "yer gonna die". Just ignore it, it's banter US style. Enjoy the trip.

In reply to Andy Fielding:

I'd recommend Supertopo too. I found partners and made some good friends by posting that I was a clueless Brit turning up on my own somewhere not having the first clue where the descent route was. Good people respond out of a sense of public duty!

Not sure that's the right sales pitch for Yosemite, but it's a big site with lots of traffic so you'll certainly get noticed.

In reply to Dave Garnett and Andy Fielding:

Thanks, I'll certainly post on Supertopo nearer the time. Next problem is where to stay, it looks like all the campsites are full.

Cheers, Tony

In reply to TonyB:

Camp 4 is first come first served as are some spaces elsewhere. Very few brits book.