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Eastern Grit Tomorrow

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 Droyd 06 Mar 2015
Hey all

We're planning on heading out to the Eastern Peak tomorrow and, while the forecast is for sun and 10-or-so degrees, it's also for strong south-westerly winds. We're after plenty of good routes in the VDiff-HS range due to one of us being pretty new to outdoor climbing - initially we were thinking Stanage but, having been up there when it's windy and not that warm, that seems like a crap plan. Froggatt and Rivelin are the obvious choices but there's not a lot to go at at either that we haven't already done, so does anyone have any other recommendations, perhaps even for parts of crags where we can climb without risking getting blown off?

Cheers
1
 steveb2006 06 Mar 2015
In reply to DBoothroyd:

Turningstone Edge - east facing and a fair bit in the grade range you mentioned, Possibly going myself too - nicely sheltered from stiff westerlies. The approach involves descending a slighly awkward / greasy short gully.
Steve
 Bulls Crack 06 Mar 2015
In reply to DBoothroyd:

going outside? but its the Works festival of all things plastic!
 deepsoup 06 Mar 2015
In reply to steveb2006:
> The approach involves descending a slighly awkward / greasy short gully.

If you don't like the look of the gully, you can avoid it by walking left (as you face out) along the top, towards the Turning Stone itself, and dropping down around the end.

It's worth taking a pair of secateurs to murder a bit of Rhododendron with while you're there and/or a rubbish bag to bring a few chav's beer cans back to the car. (The crag isn't as grotty as this suggestion makes it sound, honest. ;O)

If you're climbing in the VD-HS range, Sail Arete is a must. Lovely little route. :O)

Another crag (besides the obvious) where you might find some shelter from the wind is Gardoms. (NMC Crack, near Apple Arete is a good 'un, towards the lower end of your grade range.)

Wharncliffe? (Not strictly speaking Peak, or gritstone - but nearly.)
You might find shelter from the wind (and a more pastoral atmosphere) away from the er.. popular end. Perhaps go and do Lincoln Crack at Long John's Stride.

What else.. Not much to go at in the VD-HS range, but Cratcliffe could be worth a visit.
 JoeMortimer 06 Mar 2015
In reply to DBoothroyd:

m8
u shud jst be less batty n go climbin int cold. MTFU, only a bit ov wind init.
c u at the top,
JM
 charley 06 Mar 2015
Just a heads up if any of you go to Turning Stone Edge, I went there this week (was lovely and sheltered and has some really nice routes) - there's broken glass (bottles) at the top of Amber Buttress/Arete. I moved most of what I could see away from the edge but just be carful when you topout..
In reply to DBoothroyd:

Lawrencefield & Yarncliffe Quarry are often less affected by the wind & have sufficient entertainment within the range you quote. Nik
 deepsoup 07 Mar 2015
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:
Yarncliffe was absolutely gopping a few days ago, needs a bit of a dry spell before it'll be worth a visit really.
 Ciderslider 07 Mar 2015
In reply to charley:

You're such a golden boy Charley, mature beyond your years - me, I'd have taken a slash on the glass
OP Droyd 08 Mar 2015
In reply to Ciderslider:

Thank you all for the ideas! We ended up spending a very enjoyable day at Gardoms, but will definitely check out Turning Stone Edge some time.

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