UKC

Hi Guys,

Was intending to head to lochnagar and Coire an Sneachta on the 13th/14th for some very gentle introductory grade I and II gullies. Have done plenty of winter walking, glacier travel, rock climbing etc and want to start exploring mixed climbs for the future.

For two guys just wanting some gentle work (single ice axes, single rope, slings and nuts) do you think there will be any condition on that weekend? I know this is hard to say but I am sure some experience will be able to help give me some ideas.

I am initially looking at Gaot track, Fiacail Ridge, the Couloir, black Spout etc so very straightforward ascents.

Any help would be appreciated!

Joe

In reply to JoeWarne:

The east should escape the worst of the current thaw, and the long range forecasts look like high pressure building in the second half of next week, so I think you have a reasonable chance of useable conditions.

In reply to Mark Bull:

15degs tomorrow on one forecast for Aviemore.

In reply to JoeWarne:

There's normally plenty of snow left in the big deep gullies. I'm sure you'll find something.

In reply to JoeWarne:

I`ll be in on sunday so can take some photos for you if its visible. Should be in during the week too so will keep you posted.

In reply to JoeWarne:

Thanks guys,

I really appreciate all the replies, great community here.
Would love to see some pics Mr Bird.
Thanks a mill
Joe

In reply to JoeWarne:

Had a fantastic weekend with fantastic weather and routes in nice condition.
Climbed Black Spout, Jakes ladder and Aladdins Couloir.

I have no intention of pushing to try anything above grade two, that's about enough for me,
I was wondering however about the cornices. This weekend they were quite lean and therefore not a huge problem (although a bit scary for a first time gully lead), but I couldnt help think how difficult a full overhanging cornice would be to overcome.
Is there any particular techniques that you would use if you were faced with a monster?

Thanks

Joe

In reply to JoeWarne:


Downclimbing/abseiling...

In reply to JoeWarne:



Try hard not to do a route with a large cornice. Sounds hard to know if there is one but somehow it generally works.