UKC

Weekend in The Gower - Need Advice on locations!

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
CL1MB0N 10 Mar 2015
Hello again!

I am headed to Wales for 10 days during the last full week in May. I previously posted on here to get advice on Northern Wales Rock based on the Ground Up guide and boy did I get some great advice! So I am going to try here for another area where we will be staying in for a few days. Our friends live in Swandsea. We will be spending a relaxing weekend in Swansea and the surrounding area. I know we planned to go near the coast for site seeing so it might be good to get some climbing in while we are there. I like to climb both sport and trad equally. I am a 5.11 sport climbing and up to a 5.9 trad climber and I will have a full rack including a set and a half of wires, a set of hexes, a full set of cams with some doubles, slings, and ONE rope. We might do one, maybe 2 days of climbing in the Swansea area. What are the MUST climb crags near Swansea. Three Cliffs Bay looked really cool with a couple nice routes in the VS 4c range. Areas like this might be nice because it will give the other couple something to do while we climb since they will not be climbing. Any specifics will help including links to crags from the UKC logbooks. If you have any recommendations for a comprehensive guidebook as well for our couple days of climbing there please inform me about that as well. Thank you!
 Ramblin dave 10 Mar 2015
In reply to CL1MB0N:

Fall Bay is worth a look - Osiris is a classic VS (two pitches if doing it with a single rope) and there's good stuff a grade or two either side as well. Fall Bay to Mewslade
 duchessofmalfi 10 Mar 2015
In reply to Ramblin dave:

Can't fault Osiris at Fall Bay (or Fall Bay full stop), enjoy the wooden peg!
 CurlyStevo 10 Mar 2015
In reply to CL1MB0N:
For me the sweet spots on the gower at your sort of grade are:
Fall Bay, Three Cliffs Bay and Juniper Wall. Paviland I found too vegetated to be fun.

Boiler Slab is also worth a look although it's not in the same league as the others and it's possibly best a few grades under your limit.
Post edited at 15:26
 DaveR 10 Mar 2015
In reply to CL1MB0N:

I'd recommend this guide book:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=1136

It's selected, but has more than enough for a few days and is easy to use.

I'd also recommend Fall Bay. It's two tiered, the bottom being tidal (you get about 2-3hrs either side of low tide I think) and the top tier is non-tidal. Personally I think the better routes are on the top tier, although they can be a little polished. Osiris is a good VS, there are some very good HVSs, and if you're feeling strong the "Lazy Sunday Afternoon" can be an easy E2 tick. There is a good beach by the crag, although the approach is not the easiest (just a little scramble).

For sport climbing, Fox Hole is a good choice, but there are plenty of other options too.
 CurlyStevo 10 Mar 2015
In reply to DaveR:
The top tier of fall bay is undoutedly some of the best rock I've encountered at the gower. The rock quality at the gower as a whole can be quite variable I've found, with the usual amount of loose stuff for uk limestone and also it can be pretty friable, some areas it's pretty normal for small foot holds to break off espicially if you are on the less frequented routes / virgin territory.
Post edited at 15:36
 d_b 10 Mar 2015
In reply to CL1MB0N:

I don't have much to add to what the others have said, except that here are the tide times for the last week of May.

2015-05-23 4:11 AM BST 1.99 meters Low Tide
2015-05-23 10:33 AM BST 8.33 meters High Tide
2015-05-23 4:25 PM BST 2.20 meters Low Tide
2015-05-23 10:48 PM BST 8.30 meters High Tide

2015-05-24 4:53 AM BST 2.42 meters Low Tide
2015-05-24 11:15 AM BST 7.86 meters High Tide
2015-05-24 5:09 PM BST 2.64 meters Low Tide
2015-05-24 11:33 PM BST 7.85 meters High Tide

2015-05-25 5:43 AM BST 2.83 meters Low Tide
2015-05-25 12:05 PM BST 7.44 meters High Tide
2015-05-25 6:05 PM BST 3.02 meters Low Tide

2015-05-26 12:29 AM BST 7.48 meters High Tide
2015-05-26 6:47 AM BST 3.11 meters Low Tide
2015-05-26 1:07 PM BST 7.17 meters High Tide
2015-05-26 7:14 PM BST 3.23 meters Low Tide

2015-05-27 1:35 AM BST 7.30 meters High Tide
2015-05-27 7:58 AM BST 3.17 meters Low Tide
2015-05-27 2:17 PM BST 7.15 meters High Tide
2015-05-27 8:27 PM BST 3.18 meters Low Tide

2015-05-28 2:44 AM BST 7.37 meters High Tide
2015-05-28 9:05 AM BST 2.99 meters Low Tide
2015-05-28 3:24 PM BST 7.40 meters High Tide
2015-05-28 9:31 PM BST 2.90 meters Low Tide

2015-05-29 3:47 AM BST 7.65 meters High Tide
2015-05-29 10:03 AM BST 2.65 meters Low Tide
2015-05-29 4:22 PM BST 7.79 meters High Tide
2015-05-29 10:25 PM BST 2.52 meters Low Tide

2015-05-30 4:40 AM BST 8.01 meters High Tide
2015-05-30 10:53 AM BST 2.28 meters Low Tide
2015-05-30 5:11 PM BST 8.21 meters High Tide
2015-05-30 11:12 PM BST 2.14 meters Low Tide

2015-05-31 5:27 AM BST 8.36 meters High Tide
2015-05-31 11:36 AM BST 1.95 meters Low Tide
2015-05-31 5:54 PM BST 8.59 meters High Tide
 MikeSP 10 Mar 2015
In reply to CL1MB0N:

For guide I would use this: http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Gower and take a copy with you.

For routes you can't go far wrong with these
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=845
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=965

Crag wise I would go for Fall Bay or Juniper Wall for trad and Southgate (there are a few crags around foxhole) or Shipwreck Cove (I am not sure what condition it will be in May so check before you go) for sport.

 Bobling 10 Mar 2015
In reply to CL1MB0N:

> Three Cliffs Bay looked really cool with a couple nice routes in the VS 4c range.

This - Arch Slab. Don't miss the traverse of the 3 pinnacles too - a very nice scramble, suitable to take a couple of reasonably confident non climbers up?
 The Ivanator 11 Mar 2015
In reply to CL1MB0N:

Here's a ticklist of Gower gems at HS - HVS trad and F5 - F6a+ sport, hope you have a good visit:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=965

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...