UKC

Ok got 3 and ½ days (midweek) climbing Costa Blanca immediately after Easter, group of 4 climbers. Flying into Alicante, base is Benidorm. Climbing needs to be predominantly in the grades 4+ to 6a, and mainly single pitch.
Clearly there is a lot to go at on a first trip to the area. I’ve done a lot of looking and weather permitting am thinking of the following. Just want to get the most out of the trip and know if I’ve missed anything major, or am making any bad choices.

Full days:
Marin - Sector Classico. I know most are two pitches, but can handle that and there is a scramble descent for those not abseiling.
Then 2 of the following 3 crags:
Forada - South side - Sector Petorri
Mula - Sector Abuelo
Font d'Axia - Main


Arrival (half day) – one of the following:
Echo Valley - Sector ECHO 1.5
Sierra de Toix - Sector Far Oeste
Alcalali - Sector Left
Orihuela – Callosa, Sectors Solano and Rapel

Others crags looked at, but discounted for various reasons include: Montessa, Guadalest, Sella – new stuff, Gandia, Salem, Bellús, Murla

Thoughts welcome, Cheers

In reply to Alan Bates:


I was a bit underwhelmed by Marin - the rock is not the best quality and the easy routes are polished.


Nice situation, decent climbing. Note that you may have to walk-in from the hotel (c. 40 mins) http://www.rockfax.com/news/2013/01/29/forada-approach/ I have been plagued by wasps there to the point of dangerously distracting the belayer


Nice place, climbing is OK, nothing special.

Not sure why you are discounting Sella - it's very good apart from some polished horror easy shows near the car park. If you are managing 6a OK, you might also consider Reconco.


Climbing is unexceptional but it's a good place to warm up at, and very convenient for access. If you get bored, there's better, longer routes 5 mins walk away at Toix Oeste.


Very nice crag, good climbing. Enough for a full day (consider this instead of Marin?)

In reply to Alan Bates:
Worth considering the echo valley for half a day from Benidorm as its gots lots of quality single pich and is close by. also a lot of people have gone off sella but if you haven't been before the situation is still as beautiful as ever, yes a lot of routes are polished but many are not and the new sector at the top end is excellent .

In reply to Mark Bull and mike123:

This is exactly the kind of feedback I need. From the guidebook my mind was made up on Marin, but now maybe not though I'd be keen to hear other opinions on it.

And both of you point out that Sella really ought to be visited for a number of reasons, I was focusing on the new RF guide and a lot of polished stuff at our grades, but as Mike pointed out there is new stuff above sector Final and a beautiful setting counts for a lot.

Also thanks Mark for the Forada approach info.

Any other thoughts gratefully received.

In reply to Alan Bates:

Personally I'd have Sella higher my list especially as you'll be wanting to pack the most into a limited time.

In reply to Alan Bates:

Had a day at Montessa recently and thought it well worth the extra drive. Very good climbing and friendly bolting.

Gandia is also excellent and plenty at the easier end of the grade range.

Alcalali is excellent but often very busy. Murla is only minutes away and offers good climbs too, albeit shorter & quieter.

Toix TV is better than Toix Oeste, but you could easily visit both during the day.

Echo 1.5 is worth a day.

Font d 'Axia also has quite a few good routes.

In reply to Alan Bates:

I think Marin is a great venue, the stuff at sector classico isn't that polished, there are also some good enough non polished routes in your grade range at sector intermedio and maybe Sector Senda down the hill a bit.
It's also good as an airport day crag assuming that you fly out in the evening, half an hour usually sees us at airport from the car park.

I've been to Forada a couple of times, but it's a bit of a bugger if you have to walk in from the hotel and it takes a bit of time to get there from Benidorm too.

Gaudalest is worth a visit, if you can operate at 6a there'd be a good amount of longish routes for you to go at for a day and more, I think the easier stuff there is a bit on the short side, but probably still enough for a day.

Echo 1.5 is nice, the lower routes at 1.5 I recall being a fair bit shorter than some further up the hill, I also thought Paret de la Bassa was not bad, but not much in the 4 range tho.

Alcalali is definitely worth a day of your time and round the corner at Murla isn't too bad either, there are a handful of routes there not in the guide, but I think grades and names are on the rock..

Only went to Font d' Axia for the first time this year, it's o.k.

I've never though much to Sella(busy, bog paper and shit all over the place)and have only visited twice in the last eight years of going out there, but I haven't been upto the newish sector so couldn't comment on that..

I've been to Toix many times, it's nice enough, but the easier stuff that you're after is becoming more polished year on year, still not as bad as some french crags i've tried..

In reply to Alan Bates:

Take a full day at Guadalest, it is superb.

The newly developed sector at the top of Sella was a highlight of my recent trip. Tony, the land and finca owner was very accommodating.

Toix is good but can get hot and busy, great if pretty girls in tight vests are your thing.

There is very little bad in the area, enjoy your trip

In reply to fatbuoybazza:

Another vote for Marin, it's my favourite of the Costa Blanca crags (I climb up to 6a on a good day).

Must just be me that doesn't rate Marin then - maybe I was having a grumpy day!

In reply to Mark Bull:

Marin sector Classico was nice, went up Johny with 2 folk new to outdoor climbing. Technically easy climbing, but feeling of adventure, 2 pitches, huge stances, and walk-off descent going back then left, a wee bit scramble but fine if both hands free. Not polished. However, there was a school there, so it wouldn't need many more folk before you might struggle for choice of route, after walking in. Bit warm for me personally (October) but had 2 half days at different sectors.

Montesa was brilliant - a long drive for us, but we went twice - pretty views, range of climbing types, opposing walls allow sun or shade, 5 min walk in. Chimneying and other esoterica (for low grade bolt routes) was a big hit with my newish team (I was supposed to be the older and wiser one). Montesa appears a small venue, but I reckon you could get nearly a week out of it. Also, you can top out, beyond the lower offs, on the big block - again, nice for those raised on bolts or indoors.
We stayed at brill place near the town of the Boreal factory, so Narin was near, however Montesa was on a fast road, no wee roads at the other end, so not too bad a commute!

In reply to BrendanO:
Yes, Montesa is one of my favourite crags in the area.

If you are going there from Benidorm/Calpe check out the map in the Rockfax guide (or Google Maps) for the quickest route from the motorway exit at Oliva onto the CV-60 - the signposting is hopeless.

In reply to Alan Bates:

I'd support the idea of Montesa as it is really easy access and has plenty of stuff to go at in a friendly environment. Most people I have taken there have wanted to go back on a subsequent trip. Bellus is a good place for getting a lot done and has variety if you visit the riverside crag as well - this has some great, steep 5's and 5+ routes with some really steep stuff. Font D'Axia is ok. I like Salem as it has quite varied sectors around the hillside. Forada is a great situation but a bit challenging to get to on a short trip, as others have suggested. It is used as an airport day crag though for people with late flights home!

Tropical Dreams wall up at the top of Toix is good for a half day - quick approach and nice views. Guadalest is also great with a lot of different sectors. Every crag is worth a visit or several, so perhaps base your decisions around ease of access?

In reply to Alan Bates:

gandia is really good such a nice place

In reply to Alan Bates:

Assuming you haven't climbed in the area before I would stick to the stuff nearest to where you are stopping - Montesa is great but it is a long drive from Benidorm, as is Forada and even Marin.

Toix/Sella/Guadalest/Echo/Alcalali should easily fill your days - giving more time for climbing (and going to the beach) rather than sitting in the car,


Chris

In reply to Alan Bates:

Latest topo for bear and doggy sectors at the top of sella -
http://costa-vertical.com/wp-content/uploads/Sella_La-Moleta_Topo.pdf
There is one further 5+/6a in the doggy sector

The new years day sector (bay right of sector final) is covered in the orange house's mini guide - http://theorangehouse.co.uk/mini-guides

Cheers everyone, some great advice there.
Marin is now back in the hat, with Montessa, Sella and Guadalest as new entries. Sounds like a return trip will be in order. Not too worried about driving for a while each day as we'll be making early starts.
Can't wait.
Cheers