UKC

I'm heading to Kalymnos on the 10th April, three days after I get off ship. From now till then I have about four weeks in which to train forearm endurance and core, but no access to a wall.

What I do have is a crusher grip trainer, a powerball, a one-handed fingerboard thing and a lat pulldown machine to attach it to, a dumbbell and a bar bell. Also (in good weather) a pullup bar.

What will give me the best benefit? I'm currently cardio fit from a month of winter climbing and when out on grit the other day was moving relatively well. Looking to climb 7a this holiday.

R

In reply to Roberttaylor:

Got some heavy buckets? You could try a farmers walk.

In reply to Roberttaylor:

What do you mean by a "one-handed fingerboard thing"? Something like the Crusher Orb or Metolius Rock Rings? http://crusherholds.co.uk/crusher-orb-fingerboard

In reply to Roberttaylor:

Piece of broom handle, about 18" long. Drill a transverse hole through it, in the middle. Thread with some cord, with a metre-long tail. Attach the end to a weight. Hold it out in front of you, and wind the weight up, then slowly down.

Repeat with palms both supinated and pronated.

Old school, but very effective.

In reply to slab_happy:

Crusher Orb

In reply to Martin not maise: Good call. I've done these before.

In reply to Roberttaylor:

Hang off a table. Lie under a sturdy table, put your hands up on to the table edge, first joint on the table top, hang open handed style, your feet should be on the floor and your knees bent at 90 deg (or more open if you can manage) and pull yourself off the floor such that you are using your core to keep your thighs and torso pretty much horizontal. Now the training bit... Both hands on for 5sec, left hand off for 3sec, both hands on for 5sec, right hand off for 3sec (that's one rep) continue to repeat that sequence without rest for eight reps (that's one set). Do four sets with 7min rest between. You can play with your foot position vary the weight on your arms and decrease the rest from 7 to 5min if you are feeling hard core... Good luck.

In reply to Roberttaylor:

Regular masturbation

In reply to 3leggeddog:


Somebody had to say it didn't they. I was surprised it took this many replies before this.

In reply to Roberttaylor:

With two Orbs (hung off the pull-up bar), you could do a pretty decent fingerboard workout -- one based on "repeaters"will be more oriented towards power-endurance rather than pure strength.

It is apparently possible to work aerobic endurance on a fingerboard, if you put your feet on a support or use a pulley or some other means to take weight off -- it's just much more boring than doing it on a wall. There's a discussion here:

http://rockprodigytraining.proboards.com/thread/275/endurance-training-on-h...

Also, I second Martin not maisie's recommendation of the wrist roller.

In reply to slab_happy:

I assume you mean anaerobic endurance. I do pyramid shaped repeaters with both hands on with my finger board. 4s, 6s, 8, 10, 8, 6, 4s with 5 sec in between. In fact, I often miss out the 10 second peak, but I get very pumped. Repeat 7 our more times with only 1 min rest. Eric Hörst I think.

I don't know if its the best, but I get pumped, which is the main point

In reply to Roberttaylor:

Have you got plenty of weight for the bar? You could try some heavy finger rolls...

In reply to Cake:


Re: the repeaters, yes.

When I said aerobic endurance, I did mean aerobic endurance -- the low-intensity "aerobic restoration and capillarity" type stuff. Whence the boredom factor, if you're trying to pootle around at a low continuous intensity for 20 minutes or so on a fingerboard.

In reply to Martin not maisie:

This exercise is brilliant.

In reply to Roberttaylor:

What you need Buddy is the ' GRIP master ' heavy tension. Sorts the finger strength and the forearms at the same time . Costs about £12 for 1 or I suppose £24 for the pair. I only use one and change hands. 10 reps per hand till you can't do any more.
" No pain no gain " as Ron used to say.