UKC

Half rope for alpine

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Klemen 14 Mar 2015
Hi

I'm buying a high performance half rope, and am looking for different opinions. I would like a tough rope, that can take long routes of mixed climbing in granite, and also perform well in wet ice and snow conditions. Light and skinny is a plus. Im not planning to do any hard projects on the rope, so it shouldn't take (m)any falls.

So far, i was considering
-Edelrid Apus (heard good stuff about Edelrid ropes, about the pro shield)
-Sterling Fusion Photon Dry (skinny, light, handles well, expensive)
-Mammut Phoenix (the cheapest for me to get, any downsides in comparison?)

Thank you very much for your opinions/experiences
 John Kelly 14 Mar 2015
In reply to Klemen:

i've got phoenix and photon - go phoenix - 1g per meter heavier but feels more controllable for belaying and rappel

Edelrid - had a few (not apus), they are good but the mammut phoenix is great
 AlanLittle 14 Mar 2015
In reply to Klemen:

Used a friend's Apus's on a Dolomites trip and was impressed: top handling, feels robust. Mostly used as twins but didn't feel to scarily skimpy for the odd pitch as halves.
 beardy mike 14 Mar 2015
In reply to Klemen:

Had Phonixs and apus, and personally would go Phonix. The apus is not imo particularly robust, and tangle like crazy; they're not as bad as ice lines but phoenixs last well, handle well and if you can get them cheap you're going to go wrong.
 Mountain Llama 14 Mar 2015
In reply to Klemen:

Have had a pheonix for quite a while, it's fairly hardwaring.

Just bought 2 x 60 m of these http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Ropes/Half-Ro...

first week of using them is good.

HTH Davey
 Sharp 14 Mar 2015
In reply to Mountain Llama:

Yeah I got a pair of those, £85 for a dry treated skinny half, unreal price and a lovely rope for winter. Not sure over the logevity but it's got a slightly higher sheath percentage than the phoenix.
 Matt Amos 15 Mar 2015
In reply to Klemen:

I've had pair of the old style apus for over a year now and they're holding up really well. They've been abbed on, used on sharp alpine rock, used in the lakes and pretty much everywhere. I was surprised at how unthin they are for 7.8. It seems an odd thing to say but I'm sure they're thicker than a friends tendon ambition 8.5. They are also much more hardwearing.
Basically I think they're excellent, they stay supple in the cold and they're more hardwearing than they look.

On a different note, rock and run have some very cheap halfs at the moment in the deals section

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