UKC

Why do they make 10cm quick draws when everyones favourite is an 18?

In reply to zimpara:

So that you don't fall as far.

In reply to zimpara:


Is it?

In reply to zimpara:

Not necessarily. I use 10cms, quite thick and stiff, for sport and longer, far thinner and flexible ones for trad.

In reply to Robert Durran:


Exactly. Trouble is I get really scared even with short quickdraws so I just use a single krab to reduce the fall even more. Of course that means I get lots of rope drag so I solve that by only clipping every other bolt.

In reply to jon:


I prefer to solve it by getting strong enough to climb with loads of rope drag.

In reply to zimpara:


Everyone's?? 10cm is normally perfect - if not, then use two!



Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:


Or just carry a couple of long dangly ones for when they are really needed.

In reply to Robert Durran:


Did you get strong enough over Christmas in Spain?

In reply to zimpara:

Because 18 is the most pointless size ever.

I have some 10cm ones for sport, which they excel at. Then I have slingdraws, which are generally 20 or 60cm, can be 30 if required. About 40000 times better than what are essentially lengthend sport draws.

In reply to jon:


No! Spent two days on it, accepted I wasn't yet strong enough and that I didn't really like the route enough, the holds were too painful for the sort of siege required, and that it probably didn't suit me anyway. Shall think again, get stronger, hopefully remain uninjured and try again in October if possible..........

In reply to jon:


I get even more scared so at every bolt I stop, use a sling to attach myself to the bolt, then untie the rope and rethread it through the bolt, re-tie, detach the sling, then I'm off again. It does mean each route takes a wee while to climb, and ropes get trashed quite quickly. So I try to use my climbing partner's rope. That's when I can find a partner. Which is not often.

In reply to jon:


Too risky for me. I don't like falling that far so I thread the bolts as I go.

In reply to ericinbristol:


Even with those big steel screwgates which weigh half a ton each?

In reply to Robert Durran:

Yeah - threaded bolt compared to a single krab stops you falling about another 9 cm, maybe 12 cm with rope stretch

In reply to Willi Crater:

How do you get to thread the rope through the bolt eye when you already have a krab in it?


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:


... especially with that big thick 11mm rope?

In reply to jon:


Just climb on 3mm cord then.

In reply to zimpara:

I tend to use a mix, gives ma options

In reply to Chris Craggs:



I don't use a krab on the bolt, I larks foot a dyneema sling onto the bolt.