UKC Forums - AD routes from Saas Fee/Grund

AD routes from Saas Fee/Grund

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shaun walby 17 Mar 2015

First visit to Sass Fee this summer got a week before moving onto Chamonix. No partner for couple of days considering solo ascent's of Weissmies and Lagginhorn...what should i consider at AD..ish

OP shaun walby 17 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

the AD routes are with partner not solo btw...

AdamCB 17 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

Nadelhorn-Lenzspitze traverse is on my wish list..

OP shaun walby 17 Mar 2015

In reply to AdamCB

Martin Moran's 4000m Peaks of the Alps guide? He states it gives one of the finest ridge traverses in the region at a sustained AD grade" From the Micschabel Hut...does look impressive.

Simon4 17 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

Well I've not done the entire ridge, but the North ridge of the Rimpfishhorn is said to be a grand day out. Probably best not to do in a blizzard though, especially the short, sharp, overhanging last pitch. Eh, Amanda?

It is also said, though I confess not to having done it, that the North Ridge of the Weissmies is a full-on day out.

Mountain Llama 17 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

Try this one its a good 2 day trip Plus acclimatisation

http://livingmountain.net/2013/10/swiss-alpinism-weissmies-traverse-from-sa...

butteredfrog 17 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

The Rotgrat Arête onto Alphubel, was a very enjoyable day out.

Simon4 17 Mar 2015

In reply to Mountain Llama:

As the lawyers say, for the avoidance of doubt ...

He can only do the Weissmies traverse with a partner, though it can be soloed from the Almageller hut returning by the same route (long, tiring descent from the hut to the valley, as against just catching a cablecar when doing the traverse).

OP shaun walby 18 Mar 2015

In reply to all

Thanks all some good stuff to look through. re solo Weissmies yes iam looking at the SSE ridge from Almegellar Hut descending the same way, wouldn't dream of attempting to get across to Hohsass lift/Trift glacier (easy decent) un roped.
If i find someone at the campsite looking to try Weissmies id go as pair/roped.

will have a look at the blog bit later,skip read looks good...thanks

OP shaun walby 18 Mar 2015

In reply to Simon4:
Rimpfischorn N ridge...suprised to see how long a day that is, climb over the grand gendarme sounds v impressive.

Simon4 18 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

All the days from the Britannia hut are surprisingly long, as the mountains are so remote from the hut. You finish up with a long return, after you are off the mountain proper, with a short but sharp final ascent to get to the hut, just when you don't want it.

I haven't done the Grande Gendarme, so can't comment. Martin Moran gives the GG only II in ascent, a lot harder if you reverse it. He also says :

"Dry conditions are recommended, the route becomes considerably harder if crampons need to be worn"

I'll say!! A blizzard on the crux last pitch, with little or no rock gear to protect it, adds extra sporting value too.

Simon4 18 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

Camptocamp account of the Weissmies North ridge :

http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55927/fr/weissmies-arete-n

OP shaun walby 18 Mar 2015

In reply to Simon4:

Defo a tad more demanding than the normal time routes another impressive route, so many to go at just a case of trying to identify the pearls due to limited time, I'am only there for a week, supposed to be in Chamonix the wk after...so many routes too little time as per usual. Iam due a break with weather this next outing.

Solaris 18 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:
For some acclimatisation: traverse of the Weissmies voies normale starting from the Almageller Hut and down to the Weissmies Hut (F+/PD, iirc). Next day, Fletschhorn–Lagginhorn traverse (AD, iirc). The top part of the decent of the voie normale of the Lagginhorn requires care if it's icy. Two thoroughly enjoyable, varied and interesting days out.

I haven't done it, but if you get decent weather, you could also do the Portjengrat from the Almageller Hut.

Post edited at 19:19

OwenM 18 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

What about the Portjengrat, AD+ a really good rock ridge. I did it years ago but would say it's one of the best days out I've had in the area certainly better rock than many of the classics.

chris gooder 19 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

Hi Shaun, Soloed the Lagginhorn and Weissmies from the Weissmies Hut a few years ago. On the Lagginhorn I climbed the ridge all the way and it was straight forward. On the Weissmies there was one steep icy section which was tricky on the descent but other than that it was ok.
When are you in the Alps? Martin and I are out there again.

OP shaun walby 19 Mar 2015

In reply to chris gooder:

Hi Chris...wk before you arrive, should be fit/partial acclimatised by time you arrive? Might be able to grab a route with you/Martin before you proper Alpinists get into your stride 😊

chris gooder 19 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

Good, hope to meet up. Yes the Lagginhorn and the Weissmies are good warm ups and easily reached from Saas Grund via the cable car. I would have liked to have gone onto the other side of the valley which you see very well from the Weissmies Hut but I like you were moving on to Chamonix and was pushed for time.

The Ivanator 19 Mar 2015

In reply to shaun walby:

Bolted climbs on the Jegihorn (near Weissmies hut) or the Dri Hornli face (near Almageller hut) are good fun if you have a partner, and all at a good altitude for acclimitization (around 3000m). The traverse of the Dri Hornli ridge is a fun outing at ADish.
If you are without partner I'd head up to the Weissmies hut and use as a base for the via ferrata on the Jegihorn to acclimatize, then solo the Lagginhorn - you can avoid the remnant glacier altogether if you start from the base of the ridge.

alastairbegley 19 Mar 2015

In reply to Simon4:
The North Ridge of the Weissmies is a fantastic route, short approach, often quiet, long sustained ridge with a remote feeling (despite its very unremote location) and quick descent. It is much longer and more difficult than the Lagginhorn. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/north-ridge-weissmies/

Top tip, if you ask nicely at the Hohsaas hut they will serve breakfast earlier than their scheduled time.

The north ridge of the Rimpfishhorn and the traverse of the Lenspitze are really high on my list as they just look fantastic, however both are really long days and are made much harder if they have snow on them.

It's not hard, in fact its a long snow plod, but I really enjoyed the Strahlhorn. It has stunning views down into Italy from the top, a nice snow aete to finish the route and a stunning view of the Zermatt watershed.

Post edited at 22:35

Simon4 20 Mar 2015

In reply to alastairbegley:

I might think about the North ridge myself for this Summer, depending on partners. Would make for at least the third time I have climbed the Weissmies though, there are other peaks I ought to be climbing.

I recall the Strahlhorn as being an endless grind.

ashpreston 20 Mar 2015

In reply to Simon4:

Portjengrat and north ridge of rimpfishorn both excellent routes!

Simon4 20 Mar 2015

In reply to ashpreston:

Portjengrat looks good, both as a route and as an acclimitisation, certainly might be an option for me this Summer.

Personally I have no great desire to climb the Rimpfischhorn a third time, not that that should put anyone else off.

chris bedford 20 Mar 2015

In reply to Simon4:

> I recall the Strahlhorn as being an endless grind.

Much better on skis - especially the descent
The only 4000m peak (out of quite a few) that I've never done in the summer (nor ever will).

Simon4 20 Mar 2015

In reply to chris bedford:
I agree it looks like a great ski peak.

Hang on Chris, does that mean you are one of the magical "4000m completers"?

(i.e. glorified Munroists)

I fall at your feet and kiss your climbing boots, or would do if I were worthy of that honour - and hope to join you some time in the next few years.

Post edited at 12:26

chris bedford 20 Mar 2015

In reply to Simon4:

> Hang on Chris, does that mean you are one of the magical "4000m completers"?

Well, depending on how you count them I have three left (Zinalrothorn, Droites, and the inevitable Aig Blanche). The wife is two ahead of me, only has the AB to go......

Simon4 20 Mar 2015

In reply to chris bedford:

> (Zinalrothorn, Droites, and the inevitable Aig Blanche). The wife is two ahead of me, only has the AB to go......

Aiguille Blanche???

Snigger. Smirk.

I withdraw all my admiration and hero worship.

jdgaventa 21 Mar 2015

In reply to Simon4:

Another +1 for the Portjengrat. Long, varied and nobody on it (as it's <4000m) - great day out.

Simon4 22 Mar 2015

In reply to jdgaventa:

I climbed the Brunegghorn last year (twice actually, once with the finish of the North Face) :

http://images.summitpost.org/original/247626.JPG
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=244902

Similarly neglected because it is only 3833, despite being a superb mountain with a fantastic view. The day we climbed (at least the edge of), the North face, we were not only the only people on the face, we were the only people on the mountain. But it is a fine peak, looks really impressive from the valley and has a superb summit view :

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=245248

The year before that, we climbed the Balmenhorn, which is a good day out, though nothing like as fine a peak as the Brunneghorn.

People get so fixated on named routes, on one of the Tour Ronde threads, where there was a picture of people waiting at every stance and every pitch like a bus queue, I posted a picture of the B North face with no-one at all on it.

Will certainly look at the Portjengrat this Summer.

jcw 22 Mar 2015

In reply to butteredfrog:
Interesting you recommend the Rotgrat. Obviously your experience was better than mine. All I noted in my diary was 12 hr round trip and would be better called the Grotgrat.