UKC

Symonds Yat easy climbs

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 climbwhenready 17 Mar 2015
Can anyone recommend some worthwhile routes at the VDiff grade at Symonds Yat that are well protected? Never been before, but right now I have a strong preference for being able to get good gear in.

And are there other crags in the area I should visit?

Thanks a lot!
 Iain Thow 17 Mar 2015
In reply to climbwhenready:

Snoozin Suzie is the obvious V Diff at the Yat, lovely route. Runner above your head for the only awkward move.
In reply to Iain Thow:
Thanks, I'd seen Snoozin Suzie (an amazing >1000 ticks on UKC logbooks!). At the moment I'm only perusing UKC while I wait for my guidebook to arrive (the South West select guide as I'm not local). Good to know the gear is good, thanks.
Post edited at 15:01
 james.slater 17 Mar 2015
In reply to climbwhenready:

Ive climbed a fair amount of Vdiffs at S Y and they tend to be loose, dirty and rubbish. If you are able to raise the grade by 1 and look at severes the quality improves somewhat. Homoeopath isnt bad if you can find it. The Nansen routes are good, and Golden fleece is excellent. All well protected. Tea on a rainy day is the only Vdiff i think i could recommend (apart from snoozing suzie which is class).

Some of the longer multipitch routes at Wintours leap might be a good bet, lots of good VD and S, or easier!
In reply to james.slater:

OK, that's good to know. What would you recommend at Wintours Leap - Central Rib III, Original Route, and a Corner Buttress? I was actually looking at the Yat because it seemed there were more climbs in the lower grades, but it sounds like that could be a bad decision.
In reply to james.slater:

btw, in principle I lead severe, but in practice I haven't for over 6 months and want to get back into it gently.
 james.slater 17 Mar 2015
In reply to climbwhenready:

Dont get me wrong, Snoozin' Suzie is well worth calling in for, the views and climbing are superb! The other easys are just likely to dirty and slimey after the winter.

Yep, all those at Wintours should be good, and apparently bottle buttress is good too. Wintours leap is very different to S Y despite being in the same valley, and the leap might feel more committing with less gear, so it just depends how you feel I guess!

Good luck though, the Wye valley is a beautiful place to climb when its sunny!
 Iain Thow 17 Mar 2015
In reply to climbwhenready:

Central Rib at Wintours is excellent, haven't done corner Buttress. As James said, if you're prepared to go up a bit Golden Fleece is brill (well protected and low in the grade)

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