UKC

Compass Point

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 Skip 23 Mar 2015
Am hearing reports on social media, from climbers local to the area, that Compass Point has suffered rock falls making it "very dangerous and unstable at the top".

Don't know any more than that at the moment.
 petegunn 23 Mar 2015
In reply to Skip:
Not sure about the whole crag but this area has had some rockfall.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2395
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=587387
Post edited at 11:44
 Iain Peters 23 Mar 2015
In reply to Skip:

My understanding is that the rockfall has occurred along the narrow ridge above Crimtyphon, not on the route itself but the stance and belays have gone.
 Joel Perkin 23 Mar 2015
In reply to Skip:

Was up there on Saturday and can confirm the path across the top is dangerous.

The top of crimptython has been affected by this and the only stuff to belay off is precariously balanced blocks, then you've got to survive getting off. Shame, best route up there!

The seaward routes still look alright!
OP Skip 04 Apr 2015
In reply to Skip:

Looking like it's about to fall down!
 Iain Peters 04 Apr 2015
In reply to Joel Perkin:

Joel. Would be a good idea to post your FB photos here. My advice would be to steer well clear of any route on the landward side of the usual descent.
OP Skip 12 Apr 2015
In reply to Skip:

Latest advice coming from an active local is STAY WELL CLEAR.

"The N side of the ridge is falling away rapidly leaving behind unconsolidated mud and shale bands."
 Iain Peters 13 Apr 2015
In reply to Skip:
I was there yesterday. Basically the ridge from the Compass Tower as far as the descent ramp has become an unsupported rock serac and is about to cascade down the N slope of mixed shale and earth bands, hence the horizontal cracks all along the S side. This could go at any time. As many will know there has already been one fatality on Caravanserai due to a previous rockfall. The latest situation is that every route from Snapping Bubblies/ Crimtyphon up to and including Dreadlock Holiday is affected, many to the point where they no longer exist, at least as rock climbs. I hope to return in a day or two and see whether Crimtyphon might be climbable with a leftward traverse below the fracture line and a belay on the existing anchors near Tydomin.
Post edited at 17:17
 Mark Kemball 13 Apr 2015
In reply to Iain Peters:

Get in touch when you come over Iain, phone, as my computer is not functioning at the moment - I'm having to use Ali's iPad!
 nightclimber 13 Apr 2015
In reply to Skip:

thought you meant the other Compass Point for a brief second - nearly got seriously concerned http://www.compasspointbeachresort.com/
 Chris the Tall 13 Apr 2015
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Hi mark - how's the ankle
In reply to Jelly Mould Surfer: Your pictures aren't accessible...is there some other place you've posted them?

 Mark Kemball 14 Apr 2015
In reply to Chris the Tall:

Good to climb, thanks. Well on the way to recovery, but aches quite a lot if I walk more than about 4 miles. How are things with you?
 Chris the Tall 14 Apr 2015
In reply to Mark Kemball:

Very stiff after running the Sheffield Half on Sunday !
In reply to Skip: Thanks. I'd say everyone should avoid that whole area until it's fallen down, which should be relatively soon.

OP Skip 20 Apr 2015
In reply to Skip:

Latest update:

"The landward slab is a definite No-Go area. Crimtyphon is in a very marginal condition. 2/3rds. of the route is still climbable but given the nature of the horizontal fracture and the amount of rock that's becoming detached I personally would give the whole slab a very wide berth. The next heavy rain might see most of the ridge collapse."
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