UKC

2 Weeks ago I damaged my A1 how long would the recovery usually take?There is not any pain there anymore (left ring finger)? Thanks Charlie

In reply to Charlie Fells 1994:

From my recent experience about 3 months. After that, climb lower grades and avoid crimps.
I did mine in December and only started climbing again at the start of this month. I am pain free but don't yet have ful range of movement but it is making progress.
Age may be a factor, I'm 51, a whippersnapper might get back to fitness quicker (damn kids).

Might just give it another week, Then stick to slabs! I'm (20)

In reply to Charlie Fells 1994:

One more week might be a bit optimistic, although it depends how badly you damaged it, if there is no pain after just 2 then it could have been a very minor injury in the first place.
Give it as long as you can stand before climbing on it again, and then just keep the level down so that you never experience pain of more than about 2 or 3 out of 10. That low level of pain shouldn't affect the healing and will make sure the finger gets some use and doesn't end up weak and injury prone as it would at the end of an extended lay-off.

In reply to Charlie Fells 1994:

get it checked if you haven't, i think a lot of people think they've damaged their a1 when they haven't- they did what i did recently and tore a lumbrical muscle in the palm. depending on how bad it is you could be back climbing sooner than if you'd damaged your a1.

In reply to Charlie Fells 1994:

Never damaged an A1, but having tweaked multiple A2's I can say that active recovery was always much more effective than just sitting around losing fitness waiting for it to heal when in all honesty, it will most like heal faster through gentle climbing as there will be much higher blood flow to the area. Tendons and ligaments like to be used and in my experience heal ineffectually when simply rested for long periods.

Of course, I'm not experienced with A1 injuries so feel free to correct me.

In reply to Charlie Fells 1994:

http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html