UKC

Just seen this,

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/horseshoe-quarry-redevelopment-consultation

Today marks the start of a consultation exercise on the redevelopment of Horseshoe Quarry in the Peak District.

Since the BMC acquired Horseshoe in 2004, considerable landscape improvements have been made, benefitting the flora and fauna and making the quarry more attractive, but the climbing has remained essentially the same other than some limited re-equipping in 2009.

BMC CEO Dave Turnbull explained the thinking behind the redevelopment: "Horseshoe is like it is due to human action rather than natural processes. Had the original owners stopped quarrying a month earlier or later the walls would be different to what we have today."

BMC president Scott Titt added: "Climbers have enjoyed the routes over the years, but we feel it is time to rejuvenate the quarry. If an indoor climbing wall hadn’t changed its routes for years there would be uproar and people would have gone elsewhere."

The BMC understands some climbers may be reluctant to see old routes go, especially those involved in first ascents, but we hope people will understand that a new lease of life is needed to enable young climbers to bag some new routes for themselves. We have secured Sports Council funding for the project and may extend the work at other sites in the future.

The consultation runs for three months before redevelopment starts. The work will take place next winter with Horseshoe re-opening in spring 2016.

The consultation focuses on:

Which routes should we keep?
It is hoped that some three-star routes can be retained, but are there some others worth keeping?
What new features should we add?
e.g. overhangs, slab routes and jamming cracks.
How should first ascents be allocated?
We want to encourage people to try new routing and avoid a free-for-all when the site re-opens.

In reply to sbattams:
Very good. Would sort out the polish.

In reply to Misha:

I think that the Czech climber Olof Prila gets first dibs on the first ascents.

In reply to sbattams:

To sort out the twin problems of instability and polish, they should bendcrete the faces and then move over to bolt on holds that can be reset every few weeks. That way they could have set your own route day where people turn up with their own holds and set a route they like. Also why don't they put a roof on to stop the rain getting in? As the car park fills up it would be better to let people park in the quarry itself just by opening the road up. They could add a cafe and a gear shop to fund the changes and maybe even pay for staff to check knots and belay technique.

In reply to sbattams:

Very good I like that.

In reply to sbattams:

Thing is, it's almost a good idea!

In reply to sbattams:

This time next year it'll be Stanage to be laser scanned and a 3d printed replica to be installed in appositely named chipping sodbury. Funding from the sports council, in anticipation of the imminent closure of the real thing to protect ring ouzel shooting rights of Russo-sino oligarch syndicates, though overpriced 4x4 'safaris' up the causeway will still allow access to see some bewildered sheep and inbred badgers.