UKC

Been having a chat with Redsonja about how she prefers the tatras to the Dolomites for ice climbing. I have a new set of refurbished apartments in the central Dolomites, very close to a fantastic venue with scores of routes virtually minutes from the door. So I'm looking for your opinions, what makes you choose a destination for ice climbing and why. What sort of climbing do you prefer?

If I have the oppotunity I will be exploring the posability of expanding the range of routes in the vicinity further. Currently the routes are mainly cascade ice but there is some mixed, some of which is basically drytooling, and some of which is more of the climb dry rock between smears of ice type. I beleive there is other mixed climbing to be had of the more scottish variety but nobody does this sort of thing there at the moment. The Gorge has quite a number of areas which could make for decent turf routes.

Also we are thinking about installing pipes, and want to get it right. We know the gorge could potentially have double the number of routes, but I'm also looking at elsewhere in the valley which could potentially provide long routes of several hundred metres of mixed gully and cascade climbing. I want to try to concentrate any efforts we make.

Send me your reckons.

In reply to beardy mike:

Generally a guidebook in English!! or at least a topo etc that will identify, and get me to, the routes.

In reply to beardy mike:

Ice generally.

It's a given that where ever I go on an "ice climbing holiday" the approaches will wither be impassible due to waist deep powder or the ice will have melted.

In reply to Doghouse:

Hey, Doghouse, I'm working on that. I've got a destination article coming soon for starters. After that I'll start looking at a miniguide of some variety to help people. Currently there is information in Italian and German but not much in english which for sure will not help.

In reply to davidbeynon: Normally the routes are a 5 to 25 minute walk up a snow covered track that is well trodden, although last year they has stoopid amounts of snow which mean't the gorge was inaccessible! We had 2.5m of snow on the roof!

In reply to beardy mike:

It would have been 3m if I had been there. Or 10 above freezing.

In reply to beardy mike:

Serrai di Sottoguda

I was in the Dolomites this winter; we struggled to find any ice within 'minutes', apart from this place. Is this where you have apartments? If so that's good to know for the future.

In reply to The Green Giant:

Yeah, five minutes down the road. There is much more aswell hidden away. As I say, we're hoping to expand it a bit if we can!

In reply to The Green Giant:
What did you think of the venue and how could it have been improved (other than some nice plush climbers bunkrooms ).. Its really useful to get feedback as I'm getting involved with the guys who run the ice climbing meet in January. They are really trying to push it so its well known, so any feedback you can give...

In reply to beardy mike:

How about some better anchors, fixed abseil points and solid new bolts for mixed sections. Admittedly, it has been a few years since I climbed in the Sotoguda gorge so things might have changed. back then we climbed the Cathedral and a mixed line somewhat to the left (if I remember correctly) and it was a mess of rusty pegs, strange bolts and abalakovs.

In reply to Zgemba: it is a little tricky there. Because its within the bounds of a Unesco world heritage site and the national park, strictly speaking permanent installations are strictly prohibited, including the bolts that are already there. They have been placed by individuals. If I was going to replace anything, I won't be broadcasting it here! And yes, its stupid, but knowing how local politics works, I won't be trying to push anything through legal channels as it will just be flatly refused. Unfortunately they don't understand or I get the impression want to understand climbers. But you never know... Things might change. There is certainly budget for improvements to the amenities of the gorge funded by local government, but this is mainly allocated to "standard" tourist projects. For example there is talk of a gravity bike park in the valley. We'll see...