UKC

Hi all,

I have been asked to come up with a few ideas for singlepitch group activities in the South west, particularly in the area around Newquay. Im probably aiming away from the sea cliffs due to their multi-pitch nature.

I have been looking at Roche Rock, Trewortha Tor, Kilmar Tor and Cheesewring Quarry.

Does any body have any recommends or able to offer any advice on these venues.

Many Thanks

In reply to Dan1898:

All are OK but I would suggest Sennen or Halldrine Cove in West Cornwall. Both have a good selection of single pitch routes in the lower grades on perfect rock. Alison Rib at Bosigran is a perennial favourite with other good single pitch routes nearby. AR does have a top pitch but most walk off from the terrace at the top of the actual rib,

In reply to Dan1898:






I've only been to Roche Rock once and it was extremely busy with groups, lovely rock to climb on though.

In reply to Iain Peters:

I don't remember Alison Rib being a single pitch.

In reply to Dan1898:

As Iain says, all are good.

Just been in Cheesering an hour ago. Some of it is climbable, but it always suffers a bit throughout the winter months and into spring with dampness.

Trewortha, Hawk's and Kilmar Tors are quiet, with a good range of routes (Kilmar less so) and good bouldering (Kilmar and Trewortha in particular) they are quiet, but they are also quite spread out without any great accumulation of routes in one place, with the exception of Hawk's.

Roche Rock is the popular choice, with good reason. Good rock and protection, lots of good lines across the grades, but yes, can be busy.

HTH
Tom

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

True, but many don't do the top pitch though. There's a good ledge that you can easily walk off at the top of the first pitch, so the 2nd feels a little contrived.

In reply to Dan1898:

In your position I would go for Halldrine. Perhaps a bit tidal but good ledges, good belays and a true sea cliff. There are also many enjoyable micro-routes and bouldering on the outcrops behind the main crag, an excellent tidal swimming pool, curious seals, basking sharks and not usually at all crowded. Finally and conclusively to my mind there is one of the best cream teas in Cornwall a mere ten minutes walk away!

In reply to Dan1898:

The Cheesewring is a bit crap for group use I think.

Roche is ideal for groups but be sensitive as it gets a hammering.

Haldrine is awesome, but needs a good plan re. group management - safety.

In reply to Dan1898:

So the decission has been taken out of my hands, its going to be Sennan Cove, does anybody have any experience of Top Rope and Ab activities with groups? Any top tips. I'm heading down next week for a recce.

Dan

In reply to Dan1898:

Most of the easier routes there are easily set up for top-roping and abseiling. A popular way of getting down to the platform at the base of the crag is via an abseil in the vicinity of Griptight Gully next to the impressive wall taken by the classic Severe, Demo Route. There is often an ab rope in place but you would need to establish with its owners whether or not they were happy for it to be used by a large group. Probably better to set up your own a little to one side. This descent avoids blocking any likely route. On the question of which routes are suitable, most of the single pitch ones up to Severe would do with the usual caveat of being aware that individual teams may well want to climb them as well. Any of the current published guides contain enough routes at the standard to keep everyone happy. Be cautious about the state of the sea and tides. The platform can be affected by large waves and is tidal at the Sennen Cove end. If, by chance the crag is rammed, Halldrine Cove at Bosigran is usually quieter and about 30 minutes away by car. Another option if you have more than one day available is Trewavas head on the far side of Mount's Bay, a couple of smaller granite buttresses set well above the sea with a number of pleasant single pitch routes in the lower grades. Well worth a recce when you're down there and its set in delightful surroundings. Good luck!