UKC

Hi guys anybody have any idea how much snow is on the Arran hills? Was hoping for none at all. Looking at doing the chir traverse and glen sannox horseshoe already done the Sannox a few times before but any advice on the chir traverse would be appreciated.

In reply to Wesley Orvis:

They looked white in a pic a friend of mine Facebooked earlier today. Very distant and blurry but I'd say it's more a dusting than a dumping, and maybe just the top third or so

In reply to Wesley Orvis:

easier to ring one of the Businesses on the Island and ask them than to post on here really

In reply to Wesley Orvis:

Myself, I would probably think twice about doing the a'chir ridge in new snow. Bet it'd be good as a proper winter route, and it's ace in the dry, but the wintry half and half sort of conditions I imagine it's in right now would be insecure. There's a lot of slabby rock and some hard climbing at the grade. Best saved for a snow-free traverse now this season I imagine.

In reply to Wesley Orvis:

Was on Goatfell today- plenty of ice in the shade, and soft snow on lee slopes. I'd have thought that the North side of Achir, where a lot of the route goes, probably still has a few unavoidable patches- but it is a lot lower than Goatfell, so won't be as much.

Glen Sannox Horseshoe will still have a fair bit of snow, esp on the Witches Step at the moment.

Some pics up on my blog from today: http://wildonarran.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/some-winter-left-on-goatfell.html

In reply to Wesley Orvis:
cheers all much appreciated.

In reply to Snoweider:

Looks a lot of bare rock as Arran rocks can strip before your eyes. I soloed Stacach gully in the 80s thinking I was doing the first ascent. Once I reported it to the SMC it turned out someone in the SMC had climbed it in the 60s. They didn't bother reporting then but when they seen it turn up in the 80s did! The kept the name I gave it and description for the guide book which is nice. Buttresses on both sides are good winter fun but far from in from the pics.

In reply to fmck:

Yeah vertical rock is bare- but still a fair bit of ice on the slabs. We went over the top of the ridge bare booted, but still soft snow in places. I would expect that it will strip a fair bit over the next couple of days, but the OP asked how much snow is left.... and currently- still wintry.

Was thinking about your posse in the 80s today as we were looking at lines that aren't recorded- but I'm sure have seen ascents! Arran is a bit like that....

In reply to Snoweider:

Your picture shows on the right of SG a snowy line coming down the buttress to end at a rock band. This stops at a capped chockstone chimney which you exit to the left. Its really a grade two climb with a couple of moves at the chimney grade 3. Solo in the 90s. There are another two routes to the right following groove systems but again nothing harder than 3. Left hand buttress of SG goes at 4 with the first pitch being the route as its a wander after. An obvious short chimney on LHB points down into SG this direct route starting directly below in SG goes at IIII 5. The buttress has a number of low grade climbs at a high level so ideal. Arran still has some big lines awaiting with the Nuis face only climbed last year after loads of climbers looking at it.

I stopped reporting stuff as everyone on Arran kept telling me the locals had done loads already? In fact the guide book does have a route credited to a party that were far from the first. The route even had an old peg past the crux on it before they claimed it!

If you work at the outdoor centre in Lamlash you probably know my cousin Nigel Marshal (now retired). He kind of got me into the idea of mountains in the early 80s at a school visit to Corrie croft. The place looks a heck of a lot better than they old huts.

In reply to fmck:

Fantastic- yes we were looking at the chockstone chimney as a likely line! Loads of interesting beta there. Thanks very much.

I'm a freelancer- do a bit here and there for the outdoor centre so yes I know Nigel. Its a great wee facility they have there.

In reply to Snoweider:

Other climbs high :

Bells groove on Cir Mhor lots of protection, big belays and climbing turf next to the groove which is an icey pole during the winter. Naismith route is dead easy exposed wander but really nice n scenic.

In reply to fmck:

Ah fab. So much to do... so little winter.... mostly we've done a lot of SG ascents in pretty much every style imaginable as its so reliable, and easier things like Bypass route on Cir Mhor. Husband has explored the Nuis Gullies but I've not.

A friend put up Naanaarpoq II/III a few years ago in Coire Nam Fuaran- a big ice fall coming out of the deepest of the gullies there... Only seen it form the once.

A couple of years ago after the big snow some incredible ice appeared in the saddle. Never seen anything like it. Great fun!

In reply to Snoweider:

I have seen the dyke chocked with ice and the surrounding area was a nightmare to get down early in the morning after being stuck overnight. School boys out there depth that night. Took some time to find a route through without crampons.
There are some unreported rock climbs on the saddle and one yet unclimbed cracker following a rib of granite looks no harder than HVS.
One big obvious route is the big vertical fault running up the back of Coire Daingean. Its even listed in the guide book notes as the "big vertical curving fault as yet unclimbed". This needs a good freeze as there is little protection apart from turf. We (Three of us) got ejected from it into the coire. One of the party didn't bother tying into the belay because it was really useless. Unfortunately when I suddenly got ripped off the belay I instinctively grabbed for something that happened to be my mate Nick. We got caught with the rope going round a rib of rock but Nick went the distance into the coire!
At first I was unaware I had grabbed him shouting up but then realised and seen him lying in the coire far below. We both started yelling and eventually the figure sat up. Next came a distant yell "Fraser you f##### B######.

Doable if frozen but we got it insulated with deep snow. We could see Nicks slide from Glen Rosa once back at the path. He never climbed again. Did try once while on holiday in Cornwall but didn't appreciate how much it had affected him until that day. Most regrettable thing I think I have ever done. But its still there for the asking! The large off width near the top I planned to use a custom made acro prop to protect. Below pretty much just peat hags n turf.

A good long easy route with some ice is the waterslide slab south of the Rosa slabs finishing up into the mini coire leading up to the summit of Goatfell. Theres plenty of ice being a high waterfall in summer so good protection and well off the vertical.

Getting things in condition on Arran is always challenging and I have had a number of visits being a waste of time. I think that's what puts people off. I only seemed to meet winter climbers on the ferry when conditions were too extreme in the highlands or there was a guide book about to be published. Not sure if "once in a lifetime" is still the hardest winter route on Arran but it was named because the conditions that day were just that. I took some pictures with my mothers kodak camera that unfortunately dropped down B2 gully. So your best placed to catch it when it does come in.
B2C rib would probably make a technical route with protection all the way is another I thought about doing solo with back rope. still to be done.
Minotaur would be hard but needs good ice build.
Not talking new routes I hear pinnacle ridge on N face Cir Mhor is one of the best winter climbs on Arran. I tried it as a school boy unaware it had already been done but down climbed after getting myself out my depth with little in the way of gear. (Mate had a slaters hammer as a ice tool)
Achir has the giants staircase which we bailed due to just rock further up. But better conditions? Achir itself is a good adventure in winter. Better south to North, I of course did it the other way and ended up with finishing in the dark!