UKC

my friend and myself looking for guides to take us up the matterhorn via the lion ridge, carrell hut, ive climbed cosmiques arete and papillons rige last year, will to our own acclimatisation

In reply to Matthew Martin Wsm:

In the first place you do not need two guides and in the second there are far better things to do with them than the Italian ridge on the Matterhorn

In reply to jcw:

I thought Matterhorn guides worked 1:1, no?

In reply to Jamie B:

Yes, thats correct, each guide can only take one client on the Matterhorn.

In reply to Matthew Martin Wsm:

I would recommend two guides I have used in the past. Both are IFMGA and have great work ethic. Going un-guided is a rewarding experience ,however,their is nothing wrong with using a guide!

Miha Habjan (Speaks high level of English)
https://www.facebook.com/miha.habjan.3

Fabio Levi IFMGA (Catalan) Speaks perfect English, Spanish, Italian etc
fabiolevibcn@yahoo.com

In reply to Jon Bracey:

That's interesting. Does that Union rule apply on both sides of the mountain. And is it endorsed by UAIGM?

In reply to jcw:

I'm pretty sure if Jon Bracey says its only one client per guide then its only one client per guide. Check his credentials and I'm sure you will agree!

In reply to Matt300:

I don't think they were questioning his answer more seeking clarification if it's just a swiss rule and not a UIAGM one.

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Fair comment !

In reply to jcw:

yes, both sides of the mountains. As far as I know it's agreed throughout the UIAGM/IFMGA. Not sure about the UAIGM though...

In reply to jcw:
John, there are a number of mountains that have strict guiding ratios, the most well known being the Matterhorn 1:1 and Mont Blanc 1:2. As Graham says it applies on both sides of the mountain. However, the difference between the Italian side and the Swiss side is that is actually law on the Italian side.

In reply to Matthew Martin Wsm:
Classic UKC.

You ask for two guides for the Matterhorn (and state route and that you don't need a run-up with the guides).
Someone tells you you don't need them and you should do something else (John - not your finest).
The thread diverts into guiding ratios.
Someone makes a suggestion that meets the original request.
The thread decides to continue exploring guiding ratios.
In passing, it plays CV top trumps.
At post 12, there has been 1 sensible reply and 10 diversions.




Post 13 takes the piss.

In reply to JJL: So just the normal UKCF ratio then.....

Also think you need to check your arithmetic re the posts
The real Post 13 takes the piss

In reply to L.A.:

Fair cop.

In reply to L.A.:

UKC is the English climbers Daily Mail...

In reply to Matthew Martin Wsm:

chill out guys please, thanks for the helpful advice, and jon bracey you are a legend, stories of your new routes continues to inspire me!

In reply to Matt300:

Please guys can you use guides from the UK. Just to support them and in the interest of lets say buying British.

In reply to Aigen:

any ideas for british guides, i use dave kenyon normally and hes ace, but hes busy, phone numbers or emails please, and need 2 guides please one for me and my friend!

In reply to Matthew Martin Wsm:

You should maybe ask Graham Frost who replied above. He's resident in the Arolla valley.

In reply to Matthew Martin Wsm:
Matt Dickinson. He has a cool video on climbing the matterhorn in like 3 hours and Ollie Allen.
The British Guides web site has contacted details for all BMGs. But those guys have their own website as well.

In reply to Matthew Martin Wsm:

James Thacker & Tim Blakemore. All can be found here...

http://www.bmg.org.uk/index.php/eng/Members

In reply to Matthew Martin Wsm:

Herve and Marco Barmasse

In reply to jcw:


Great reply.... . .. . :-/

In reply to Aigen:

British for Britain.
Hiring a locals will be cheaper and they will have more experience.

In reply to nutme:

I'm sorry but I can't agree with this. UIAGM guides are international. They are highly experienced in multiple mountain ranges. Some guides from other countries will only lead clients on certain mountains / routes and charge accordingly.
Also; European Guides generally aim to get you safely up and down the chosen mountain / route. British guides are far more likely to teach / coach and generally help you become a more confident and independent climber

In reply to Mark / Alps:



Also, a British guide will ensure you have a far more enjoyable and satisfying experience than an angry Swiss one, who will drag you condescendingly like a sac of spuds up it, because he wants to get the whole thing over and done with as quickly as possible.

In reply to Goucho:
We employ lots of Swiss guides, particularly on Mont Blanc, because they are so good. The vast majority of them are incredibly professional and receive exceptional feedback from clients.

In reply to Tom Briggs:

I understand they're not keen on members of the Creag Dhu...

In reply to Tom Briggs:

Never used a guide, but met enough (angry) Swiss ones in the past to justify the comment.

In reply to Goucho:

Congrats Gouch - first guide bashing of the year - I didn't think the season was open yet! We need photographs.