In reply to Nick Russell:
Frustrating week; fighting some kind of background lurgy and a finger tweak, versus some promising performances.
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Increase An-cap
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- RRG routes: Table of Colours, 5.13a/b, something in the Madness Cave, >5.13a, Check out “The Tube” 5.14a/b
- Boulders: The Dark Room, 7C+/8A, 36 Chambers, 7C, Be Ruthless sit, 7C+, In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Fix/sports massage on hip flexor & shoulders – fail – sports masseuse is on hols.
- Fingerboard and S&C workouts – tick - repeat this week.
- Start portion control/no biscuit diet; 76.7 kg & 6.8% BF – lurgy induced fail. Aim for no change next week as parents visiting.
- Trigger Cut, 7C.
Last week:
M - Rest. 1st day of new lunch allowance at work coinciding nicely with anti-lard diet.
T - Feeling the onset of a cold? Boulder on the 45 trying hard, then aero-cap. 10min 6c+, 10min 7a, feeling beasted, 10min 6b+/c. Hip/back very sore/spasming.
W - Rest; weird snot blocked ears
T - Cave session. An-cap laps on cave life short, LWH (short) and dust kick high. Learnt new beta for The Wire & Trigger Cut. Finger board aero-cap when home 15x 1min on/off + 6.5kg. S&C.
F - Rest; felt pretty terrible when out bike pootling (50min, 20km flat). Zero vege/lardy dinner with wine.
S - Orme. New high point on Trigger Cut; matching the shot hole for a second before firing off. Tomorrow People, 7c, 2nd go. Used to be a bogey route, then someone pointed out the chalk-less pinch and made it much steadier!
S - Tor – Brief play on Bens Roof, doing the start for the 1st time. Then Mecca trying new beta options on crux. Stuck drop-knee and ninja kick exit twice once I’d swapped to Scarpas instead of Dragons. Remembered the groove beta, but recalcitrant ring finger sore when I came down
M - Indoor session at Stockport to ensure absolute control over finger tweak. Warmed up, then did two of the V7/8’s on the steepness I’d not managed before. Finger boarding. Repeaters; 4x 35 degree (+6.5kg) 4x front 2 (+0kg). Foot-on campus aero-cap. 8x 90s on/off. Skin screaming. S&C. Finger no worse this morning.