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UKC Fit Club Week 420

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 Nick Russell 05 Apr 2015
Hi guys, just a quick post to get the thread started. Currently on the way back from Pembroke, might not get the stats done till tomorrow morning but feel free to post in advance.
In reply to Nick Russell: Hope you had a good trip.

As I thought, a fairly poor week...

M - working
T - working
W - working
T - Boulder @ TCA A long session. 28/33 Yellows.
F - Boulder Short session, feeling tired. Another 11/12 of the Blue Tags.
S - rest
S - Easter Sunday with partners family.

Should be able to get outside a few times next week. I am thinking about visiting Huntsham for the first time. Anyone else likely to be around?
 planetmarshall 05 Apr 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:

A really poor week for me - the wild weather sapped my enthusiasm at the beginning of the week but that's really no excuse.

Feeling reenergized after a great run today up Kinder Low in the glorious evening sun. Here's to more of the same next week.

Also constructing some route pyramids for when I can finally get back climbing.

Mon-Sat - nothing
Sun - 13km/530m trail run
 hms 05 Apr 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:

I had a really active week, but all indoor stuff as on call over the BH weekend. Hope to get outside tomorrow.
M - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, training session with Ben West, cycle home. The training session was the first of hopefully a regular commitment as I think I need someone Bristol based so I can have ongoing technique advice. Have some drills to help dynamism plus suggestion to focus on slopers on the hangboard as I seem esp weak on them.
T - evening S&C x 3
W - Cycle cmmute, cycle on to UCR, long bouldering & drill session. Pleased with the bouldering - did several in the 6b-6c set.
T - cycle commute, long session at UCR doing singles - inc 5 7as.
F - hangboard, 2 full sets on slopers. S&C x 3
S - UCR, similar to Thurs but also tried 2 7bs. Got on quite well with one, loathed the other! Got a 7a which was mainly slopers too, although felt happiest on the occasional crimpy bit.
S - TCA trying comp problems which was v enjoyable. Flashed several which on first glance I would have ruled out. Also did a few circuits at the end as D1's skin had expired by then.

So really pleased with the week - good volume and reasonable grades too. Only a week till Hathersage, so the slo[er specific stuff may be a tad too late though!
 mbh 05 Apr 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:

So I ran every day this week, and did more than 88 miles and 11,000 ft of ascent. That's quite a lot of both. Not many people do that, as far as I an tell.

M - local hilly route. 10.9 miles
T - 9.6 miles, to lift home.
W - 10.8 miles: 6 miles @ 7:18, then hills
T - Coast path with hills and steps, 9.2 miles
F - local hills, 7.2 miles
S - Helman Tor. 10.2 miles
S - 30 miles >3000 ft Cornwall Three Peaks : Mostly off-road, St Agnes Beacon, Carn Marth, Carn Brae, with a group from a local running club.
 Cheese Monkey 05 Apr 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:

No climbing this week

M- cycle to work, away on training course for week. Swim in evening. Good session
T- wanted to go bouldering at Southampton wall but they didn't know if the bouldering room would be available... useless. went for a1hr brick cycle then run
W- 30min run
T- rest-cycled home from work
F- 1hr cycle turned into 90min as my father in laws estimated 15miles was close to 20 and I got lost. Beginnings of a cold
S- swim, but cold took full force and didnt manage much. 5mile walk
S- cold made me feel very tired. Rest day but also 9 mile coastal walk. Need to be training. Annoyed

hoping to feel better this week. 3rd illness this year getting frustrating
 Joyce 05 Apr 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:

Morning Campers,

Thanks for squaring us away Nick, still need to meet up at TCA at some point. Thanks to Ally, Mr Chewy and AJM for their training advice this week, hopefully I'm a little closer to doing some actual An Cap stuff now!

Training Diary WC 30/03/15
An-Cap Training Week 2/2

Monday – Running – 1KM fast:slow intervals. Did fast, slow, fast, slow, slow as got muddled. 5K in 20:11.
Tuesday – Circuits at Bloc. Right then, following the advice of Ally, Mr Chewy and AJM, I did what might be closer to an An Cap session. I got on the harderst (7c) circuit and did an hour of 1:3 clambering to resting. Most clambering bouts consisted of 45 to 60 seconds. The wall overhangs by about 20' and the circuit was basically a series of stacked crimpy boulder problems. Most goes, I was doing 10 or more quite difficult moves before I'd fall off at a tricky move (hadn't tried any of it before so was working it out as I went - but always did moves into the tricky bits so I'd still get a reasonable number of moves in per go).

It was definitely much harder work than Sunday's effort but I still managed to stay on for similar amounts of time each go (wall was less steep though, but holds were much smaller). I didn't feel completely spent afterwards so did some feet on lock offs on the small campus rail (2 sets going up to 4 each side, then 3 sets going up to 5 each side). I finished myself off with some Frenchies (1 set of2, 2 sets of 1) - which were right proper hard work.

Wednesday – Out for a blast around the (hillyish) lanes. 5K 19:50 10K 40:47. Stoked.
Thursday – Huntsham. Unfortunately Ally's latest advice arrived shortly after I'd last checked on here so I missed it. I did reps of Ames High or Ames Low (reversed) at 1:3 climb:rest. I did 8 reps all in and all but two were 15 moves (slipped off on the two). I tried hard. At the end, I didn't feel pumped silly but couldn't hold on for more than a few moves as everything from my fingers to my core felt like it had put some effort in. Interestingly, I struggled to get past 15 moves on both because on Ames High you hit the crux span sequence which is high and scary or the gaston-y crux of Ames Low. I feel like more practice on the problems will get me cruising through those sections again - it's been almost a year since I put some serious time in on this type of longer PE problems.
Friday – Rest.

Saturday – DIY
Sunday – Huntsham. Followed Ally’s An Cap plan today. 1 set was 2 reps of each of Ames High and Ames Low reverse with 3 min rests between each rep. Then a 10 min rest between sets. Did 3 sets. Did 20 moves on all but last rep on Ames High and 12 or 13 moves on all but last 2 goes on Ames Low reverse (fell off on gaston-y crux a lot). Again, felt like I couldn’t pull hard anymore from the fingers to the shoulders but not pumped silly.

Lakes and Yorkshire this week - whoop whoop!

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
 Mutl3y 06 Apr 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:
Morning Nick
M-150 press ups, 60 pull ups +8kgs, 60 leg raises
T-150 press, 60 pulls+8kgs, 60 leg raises. Quick works session. Did all 30-odd pinkles in 45 minutes (F6A?).
W-150 press, 60 pulls+8kgs, 60 leg raises
T-150 press ups. Works session. Did 10 wasps (F6B-C) and got shut down on another 4. Good probs.
F-150 press, 60 pulls+8kgs, 60 leg raises
S-150 press. 5k run@5:39-through mud-first run in years. Burbage North highlights: Banana Finger Direct, F6C. Hanging Rib (retro flash), F6B+. Remergence, F6B. Tried Breakfast and will be back. Felt strong.
S-rest

Weight-64.0MA up from 63.6MA (really need to get this sorted it's completely plateaued)
Anyone care to advise - I've been doing 6x10 weighted pull ups +8kg. Am thinking this is wrong. Would I get stronger doing fewer reps of +16kgs?
 flopsicle 06 Apr 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks Nick!

I feel mugged this week, not going to do a sausage today.

Mon - 4 miles hills.

Tues - 2.7 miles hills

Wed - 2.7 miles hills and 1 hr lead climbing

Thurs - 2 hr coaching session on dynamic movement - I never thought I'd fly but had a great coach. (Didn't actually jump off anything, but def jumped up etc, if that makes sense?). So many bruises... Ended the session on a very dynamic climb but couldn't get the last move stepping onto my right foot higher than my head (laid back). My attempts were hilarious!

Fri - half a day mooching at the wall with my daughter and a couple of friends - occasionally getting a climb in. I did have a second bash at the dynamic route I boshed the last move on the day before. I got it!!!! Even got clapped by half a dozen watchers - sympathy clap methinks...

Sat - 2 miles jog on hills with my kid, she wanted to nail 2 miles before she was 7 on Sunday so it was do or die. 171 ft elevation at 13.22 pace - well proud of the shrimp! 1.5 hrs climbing, consolidating the dynamic stuff on the auto belay and some project boulder stuff.

Sun - 2.7 miles hills, trying to quicken up. Afternoon was my kids climbing party and I have a whole new respect for wall staff after volunteering to help belay. It was flippin' hard work belaying 2 at a time, encouraging soft kids, saying no to narky queue jumpers - and bell pull hauling kids that apparently lose the use of their legs once higher than 4ft off the floor! Kid had a brill time and thanks to friends they all got ooodles of time on the wall, worth it, very worth it.

Then after all was done, nursing more than a reasonable share of bruises with aching arms - I go and slip on my staircase, bump, bump, bump.... Life no fair!
OP Nick Russell 06 Apr 2015
UKC Fit Club Week 420

Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=612557

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week's posters:
Dandan82 - Have a good trip to Kalymnos!
mattrm - Good to hear you've finally got round to entering the enduro, making that first commitment is half the battle, right?
Nick Russell - thesis
planetmarshall - Did you get to the bottom of the hand injury?
mbh - Sounds like a good plan with the fartlek and hills. Thanks for the thesis advice.
mrchewy - 'gentle running on grass' = 'hill sprints'?
Exile - Time to switch focus to summer training?
hms - Good training. I hope you keep your job (if you want to, that is... I reckon full time climbing would suit you)
AJM - Still in Rocklands
Joughton - Have fun in Slovenia!
Cheese Monkey - Sounds like the tri training is going well.
The Ex-Engineer - Good to meet you this week! Getting a good number of sessions in.
Tyler - Still having fun in Chamonix? I forget when you're due back.
Mutl3y - Looks like you're making steady progress on the BM routines.
0.5viking - ski touring or multipitch climbing? Sounds like the conditions are variable!
flopsicle - It can be hard to motivate training when you're feeling down, but I find a good training session can really lift my mood. Stick at it!
Ally Smith - Thanks for the job/thesis advice. Good news on the RRG trip!
Joyce - Working out the ancap training. It's worth getting these things right!
Ian Rock - Going for a walk sounds like a much better way to spend your lunch break than sitting at your desk, regardless of training benefit.
Humperdink - I'd focus more on the '10secs quicker than last year which was much easier conditions.' Good effort!
Willi Crater - 'crux is passing the beehive' would make a great line in a guidebook description! Decent progress on the project.
biscuit - Found a summer project.
Roadrunner5 - Welcome back. More username confusion...
Creedence - Well done on the 7a onsight! That's great, given that your STG is 'RP 7a'.
Just Tintin - How was font?

I don't know what it's been like elsewhere, but the weather has been glorious in the SW for the long weekend. I hope people have been out making the most of it! I'm starting to think that the mediocre forecast we saw last week was a belated April fool.
 Ally Smith 06 Apr 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:
> I don't know what it's been like elsewhere, but the weather has been glorious in the SW for the long weekend. I hope people have been out making the most of it!
I'm starting to think that the mediocre forecast we saw last week was a belated April fool.

No - it's been shite here in the NW.
Post edited at 11:25
OP Nick Russell 06 Apr 2015
In reply to Ally Smith:

Sorry
 biscuit 06 Apr 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers Nick.

One session as usual this week. I ran out if steam half way through so not a great session. Got to 8th clip on the 7b+. Only one more to go and I've got the last move sorted now.

Going to bump up to two sessions per week where I can and there's a 7b+/c on the tall wall I should get on. 24m of hard vertical climbing is probably more specific to the ashes.
OP Nick Russell 06 Apr 2015
Still managing to get stuff done in between bouts of writing, and I took this weekend off to go to Pembroke.

M - Nothing (lurgy).
T - TCA. Easy session, ticking a few yellows.
W - Short run (3km) + core set. New running shoes made me feel light on my feet but that didn't translate into speed.
T - Quick session at TCA with The Ex-Engineer. Ticked off a few yellows, but that sounds like a poor effort compared to TEE's 28!
F - Rest
S - Pembroke. Climbed a few classics: Blue Sky (VS) and The Arrow (E1).
S - Pembroke. Started at St. Govans East, climbed Body Language (E4). Moved over to St. Govans and tried Test Case (E3). Fell off.

I'm pretty pleased with getting up Body Language. It's the second E4 of the year (I think I'm already doing better than last year), and the first one I've climbed onsight where the votes on here don't say soft. A bit disappointed with Test Case, but it's nails for the grade and I was pretty tired and/or dehydrated. The cramping forearms on the first few moves should have been a warning that I'd struggle with the hard bit...

I'm having trouble completely shaking this illness. I feel mostly fine now but still get the odd bout of coughing, really deep in the chest. I'll give it another week before seeing someone about it.

Assorted Goals
  • New routes in Morocco
    I feel a bit more prepared for this now that I've been out climbing some trad.
  • Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
    Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
  • Tick off some of the harder Avon trad that I've not got round to yet
    Peryl, Low Profile -> Think Pink, GT Special, Amanita, Central Wall, Main Wall Eliminate
  • Sort out the asymmetry
    Ongoing
  •  Humperdink 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to mbh:

    Good week! You've built up really well (and good to see some quality in there too).
     Humperdink 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Mutl3y:

    you could do a pyramid eg 10 +8kg, 8 + 10kg, 6 + 12kg, 4 + 14Kg, 2 + 16Kg and then back down again (hope that makes sense!). Depends what you want to improve: if its max power then yes you'll need less reps and higher weight but you'll need more reps if you want endurance (but you knew that already )
     Humperdink 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Cheers Nick!

    M: lunchtime - 4/5M in 33:53, pm - run home, 8/9M in 56:23 wet/ windy
    Tu: am - jog to work, lunchtime - 8/9M offroad in 59:45, pm -jog home, tired
    W: pm grass session: 4x500m (60sec recovery), 3min recovery, 3x500m (90sec rec), 3min recovery, 2x500m (2min rec), 3min recovery, 6min flat out. Times for the 500's were: 1:31,1:29,1:31,1:28....... 1:30,1:28,1:28........ 1:27,1:26 9M total
    Th: am - run to work 4/5M in 32:47, pm- run home 4/5M in 32:03
    F: am road session: ~800m (90sec rec), ~2K (2min rec), ~800m (times 2:13, 5:44, 2:10) then 5min jog, then hills (2x1min, 2x45sec, 2x30sec, 2x15sec) with jog down recovery. 8/9M total The hills were a bit of a shock to the system as much lactic acid was generated!
    Sa: am - 9M in 58:09, pm - 4/5M in 32:16
    Su: am - 1:40:05 14/15M

    ~82M total good week, enjoyed the session which are starting to have a bit more of a track focus as things switch towards summer
     mrchewy 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    When did hill sprints ever make sense Nick!? No running this week as work was manic, nor will there be next week as I slipped off a Stanage hanging slab before I'd placed any gear and hit the deck. One sprained calf muscle. Should be fine by the time I get on a plane to Spain on Thursday.

    Still loads of work going on at Pinnacle, so sought solace upstairs in the learner's area, hardest thing is 6a+ but mostly set by Alex Mason and thus has an outside feel to it.

    Mon - Rest. No skin.
    Tue - Routes upstairs, knackered from work.
    Wed - Finished ticking all the routes I hadn't done upstairs in the coaching room. Then did ten crimpy laps to finish 6x6a, 4x5+.
    Thu - Yoga class. Then got totally clattered with a mate who's off to the States this week. Think we left the place at about 4am...
    Fri - Worked
    Sat - Worked
    Sun - Stanage, Causeway crags.

    Lapping 6a at the end of the night is getting to feel a bit more normal. Definitely an improvement over a couple of months ago. Learning to breath on route has helped funnily enough.

    Took a big for me trad whipper yesterday when my last bit of gear ripped after I fell. Knew it was no good but had got a bit stuck due to a wet and slimy two finger jam that I had no way of pulling on and thought the crap gear might save the day when I eventually fell. Fall I did. The cam below it held but I ended up with my arse a foot from the floor, luckily my feet didn't touch down. Didn't let it affect my climbing tho and carried on trying to jam in wet cracks but with more success.

    Decided also, to not bother with logging any climbs anymore - it's quite liberating. Followed my nose yesterday at Stanage, bits were wet here and there and I made it up as I went along. I really feel I climb much better when I climb what I want rather than an obligatory grade, so the log book is over. Seemed to click about how to use my feet when crack climbing too, about time that one and then cruised up a couple of 5a things in the evening - actually used my brain for a change. Yeah, I think in hindsight that I learnt a lot yesterday.
    Post edited at 19:52
     mattrm 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Thanks for doing the stats Nick.

    STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
    Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

    Weight - 12st 3lbs (same)

    M - Indoor routes
    T - 300 dish tucks
    W - 4k run
    T - 14k mtb ride
    F - DIY - demolishing floor with 5kg SDS drill
    S - DIY - laying new/old tiles
    S - DIY - Finishing off tiling and drilling hole in wall

    Month (March) Avg - 58%
    Year Avg - 70%

    Looking back at it, this week has been better than expected. On Monday I managed to onsight a 6b indoors, which I'm fairly sure is a first. Nice ride on Tuesday, around Penhydd at Afan. Then I've been getting on with finishing off the kitchen, buy doing the last bit of building work in the kitchen. So it's actually been alright really. Percentages are going ok. Need to try a bit harder this month. Would be nice to get outside for some trad, but I can't see it happening soon.

    As an aside, I have a new job starting in May, which is nice.

    Nick - the ride normally sells out in about 15 minutes so normally I miss it. Shouldn't take much more than 6 hours or so. Should be good fun I hope.

    Dandan82 - Just throwing it out there (as a fat punter) but maybe it might be best to focus on either the redpoint or the onsight goal. They're quite different and I'm sure you could definitely do one if you really focus. Doing both risks failure at both. Just a thought.

    Ex-Engineer - Pity the weather didn't play ball. Some other time hopefully?
     mattrm 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Humperdink:

    Well done to you and mbh for the miles and the quality there. 80 plus miles in a week is hard graft. Effort ++.
     AJM 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Mutl3y:

    For strength add more weight or switch to assisted one armers
     AJM 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Good job on the E4! E5 this year?

    By the way, any potential interest in an autumn RRG trip? Have a few people interested potentially but could do with a few more to improve things...

    In reply to mrchewy:

    Where in Spain?
     mrchewy 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    A couple of days in bcn looking at the catherdral etc and then wherever Bea decides we're climbing - she's the local. I'm guessing south side of Montserrat as she's pretty near there. Should get in 4/5 days climbing tho.
     Dandan 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:


    > Dandan82 - Have a good trip to Kalymnos!

    Will do, in fact I already have, but more about that next week

    Turns out the Greeks have invented the interwebs too so I should be able to keep up to date on the Fit club.

    M: Rest
    T: Boulder; easy session, just ticking previously completed routes up to V8
    W: Rest
    T: Traffic stopped me getting to the wall so went home, 6 chin ups per minute for 20 minutes =120 chin ups
    F: Rest
    S: Travel to Kalymnos, was a bit disastrous but we made it, our mate Si turned up still pissed from the night before and spent a lot of the flight vomiting, i left my jacket at home and had to go back 15 miles for it, we left a bag in a taxi on Kos, but we got there eventually!
    S: Easy first day at Poets 6a-6c+

    Not much to say about this last week, I was just cruising before the holiday really, all injuries are sorted, i'm feeling strong, so I have high hopes for the holiday.
    The first day was just something relaxing to ease into things, we are staying right below Poets so we had a late start, wandered up the hill and just cruised a few routes, nothing too exciting but I was dead impressed with the quality of the rock, A little sharp in places but just so solid and not a hint of polish anywhere, a real joy to climb.

    Much more interesting update to come next week i'm sure
     Eagle River 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to biscuit:

    > there's a 7b+/c on the tall wall I should get on. 24m of hard vertical climbing is probably more specific to the ashes.

    Sorry dude, not convinced that's correct. The difficulty of the ashes begins at the top of the groove and it's not particularly hard moves or rubbish holds, it's continuous, steep climbing. Vertical indoor routes might translate to tenuous slightly off vert routes (think upper tier malham) but I was doing pretty well on Malham's upper tier and got my arse handed to me on the ashes because I had no stamina for overhanging routes. I genuinely think lapping a 7a/+ on the mammut (if there is one suitable) and shaking out on the jugs of a 6b or whatever half way up to recover would be far more specific.

    Sorry to piss on your chips!
     Exile 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Thanks for doing fit club again Nick. Yeah, think winter has finally gone.

    2015 aims:

    Winter VI 7 - Tick.

    Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar

    Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade

    Summer -get on some slate

    Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

    M: 1hr road bike (mountain endurance)
    T: Rest
    W: 1hr 30min PE and core at the wall (PE)
    T: 1hr road bike (mountain endurance) 2hrs 30min mountain walk - good leg recovery
    F: 1hr of reps on 7a fingery traverse (finger endurance)
    S: 50min hilly road bike (mountain endurance)
    S: 1hr 30min reps on Limestone John (E3 5c) on Red Wall, Trowbarrow (steep route endurance) 2hrs mountain walk - good leg recovery

    A good week, good to get some training in on real rock, hopefully Countash will dry out soon and we can get it done. Also finding mixing road cycling in with the running is saving my knees.
     AJM 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Eagle River:

    Recovery ability on steep ground is definitely another consideration as well as the stamina for the climbing itself - I seem to recall one of the differences in our approaches on it was that you would barely stop at the eyes whereas I would be hanging around there for a fair while. I'd been doing a whole load of trad that summer which meant that my aero fitness was pretty high.
     Mutl3y 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Humperdink:

    Thanks Humperdinck. You're right of course, pyramids would be a great idea. I could sort out a weight option I suppose but only have the two fixed weight kettlebells - 8kgs and 16kgs. Of the options available I suppose I'm going to spend a bit of time working out what sort of routine I can maintain with 16kgs.
     Mutl3y 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    Add more weight - for sure. Assisted 1 armers....that's a big thing to contemplate. I will do a bit of research into how to rig up a pulley system...maybe invest in all the weights and equipment needed. I'm building a woody anyway so it's a small addition I suppose.

    Wondering out loud, but there must be a 2 armer +Xkgs at which point 1 armers is the obvious progression....isn't thst going to be getting on for X=body weight. ??
     0.5viking 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Thanks for doing the stats again and congratulations with the E4 Nick! Do you rinse all your hardware with fresh water after having climbed near the sea? I climbed near the sea twice last week and wondered if I should rinse my expresses and other biners. The weather forecast was unstable, but in the end my mom did not brought her skis, so we only did some hiking and climbing.

    Time for some new short-term goals:
    STG (2weeks): RP the easy 7+ and try the new 6- onsight
    MTG (summer): climb more outside (ongoing thing, but did more already compared to last year)
    steady climb grade 6 outdoors (Norwegian grade)
    weight: 68/70 kg
    LTG (end of the year): climb a grade 7- or 7 outside
    Lead OS grade 6 indoor (though grading indoor is a bit soft, maybe 6+/7-)
    *new LTG: Climb all the routes on duelifjell (2 pitch trad on slab up to 5+)

    Weight: 70.7 kg
    M: 2 hour hike, indoor climbing afterwards up to f5c+
    T: 2 hour hike, some small bouldering/scrambling on large boulders afterwards
    W: rest
    T: 6 hour hike in 15cm fresh snow, climbed 1 route afterwards, but was tired in my legs from the hiking
    F: outside climbing routes up to 3 pitches, mostly easy terrain and did a non-documented crack which we guessed would be around 5-
    S: 4 hour hike, 3 slab routes up to 4+ afterwards.
    S: indoor climbing, 2hrs up to 7+ (the 7+ felt easy), campus laddering afterwards
     biscuit 06 Apr 2015
    In reply to Eagle River and AJM:

    Piss away mate all good, helpful, stuff.

    I was 'starting' tomorrow so will get back on the steep walls.

    I plan to get an extra session or two in on the auto belays each week with an eye on working on my recovery. Lots of easy laps to build up capillaries. Not done any of that for ages and I'm aware I am fit for awcc routes but not for outdoors.

    Nice idea about using jugs off another route to shake out on. I'll give it a go.

    Andy did you use a pad? Can't remember. Got a 5.10 deal through work now so can get one cheap.


    In reply to AJM:
    > Recovery ability on steep ground is definitely another consideration as well as the stamina for the climbing itself - I seem to recall one of the differences in our approaches on it was that you would barely stop at the eyes whereas I would be hanging around there for a fair while. I'd been doing a whole load of trad that summer which meant that my aero fitness was pretty high.

    Agree, I found the Ashes pretty steady for the grade - comparatively rapid to RP. I'm weak with no ability on continuous steepness (hardest indoor grade: 7a+) but I could rest for near 15 minutes at the eyes, recover from the short draining sequence at the top of the groove, before hitting the crux sequence reasonably fresh. If you want a 7c+ test of continuous, horribly pressing moves and clips, try Dreamland a few yards to the left - probably the best routes I did last year (and there was some stiff competition).
    Post edited at 23:30
     AJM 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to Mutl3y:

    Don't know when it becomes worthwhile, but you can progress from some sort of offset pull-up and work up from there. I don't think it'd be terribly good for me to be dangling anything close to bodyweight off me whilst trying to do pullups, would feel very uncomfortable!
     AJM 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to biscuit:

    I'm assuming you mean a kneepad from the 5.10 reference: no I didnt.

    I know that in theory one can kneebar the eyes, but I could never get it to work for me, and I know in theory Steve used a knee scum to help with the clip by the boss - I didn't ever try it with a pad but that stretched position with the low feet never really seemed to work for me, I had to bring my feet up.
     AJM 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

    I saw mark do that when I was trying the Ashes: if I had room for more than 1-2 yorkshire trips and therefore slots on the ticklist per year from my new location it would be a contender. As it is though it might have to wait a few years before it gets allocated a slot on the "yorkshire projects" list...
     Eagle River 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to biscuit and AJM:

    I used the knee pad for a slight scum for the left thigh at the boss to help clip. Paul could get the hands off rest at the eyes using the pad but not many people can get that to work. At the eyes you get people with moose's fitness hanging around for ever and returning to almost full freshness, and you get chumps like me using the 'rest' to chalk up and get moving before getting more pumped. Essentially it's easier the more stamina you have and more capacity to recover on steep ground. You'll already be easily strong enough for all the moves so hard vert routes or bouldering are not going to help you get up the ashes but may be useful for other things. It's a cracking route though so you'll have fun whatever state you start your assault in!
    OP Nick Russell 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    > Good job on the E4! E5 this year?

    Thanks! We'll see how it goes. To be honest I'd be happier if I could stop falling off E3 than if I fluked my way up a soft E5...

    > By the way, any potential interest in an autumn RRG trip?

    Hmm. When in Autumn? Emily's going to be in Maryland at some point (mid September onwards, I think?) so I could possibly combine a trip if the timings work out.
     AJM 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    I've got the last 2 weeks October blocked out in my calendar at the moment for a trip of some kind. With changing work deadlines I probably can't move it any earlier as there are big deadlines now in mid October.
     Humperdink 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to Mutl3y:

    I did wonder if you only had a couple of weights and now I know the answer - sorry my suggestion therefore wasn't much use (although maybe its an excuse to buy some more weights!)
     Mutl3y 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to Humperdink:

    It was good advice tho! I can already do some with +16 so should just crack on with that. When I'm happy with the level will train with +24, which I can only do a few of so far.

    It's going up from 16 I might need to make incremental so will have to work something out. Cheers!
     Mutl3y 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    Yeah should try offsets too. I'm reading it's useful to have some way of being specific about the assistance from the other arm. One of those sling things with the loops numbered up should do it. Seems a bit more straightforward than a proper pulley system, specially as my pull ups and BM is in the house, where ideally it will stay.

    Thanks for the advice.
     Tyler 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Poor week, managed the required number of climbing sessions but these lacked focus/intensity. No cycling at all.

    M: Boulder UK
    T: Stockport, third day on (if you count pull ups on Sunday) so didn't expect much, didn't get much.
    W: Rest
    T: Lazy
    F: Boulder UK
    S: Social and family
    S: Went to Boulder UK, managed an hour due to hangover
     hms 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    tweak it so it's after 4/11 and I'd be there like a shot! Still no foreign trip plans at all for Sept or Nov, not even a long weekend.
     Ally Smith 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Frustrating week; fighting some kind of background lurgy and a finger tweak, versus some promising performances.

    BHAG (2016 and beyond):
    - “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
    - Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
    - True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
    - Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
    - Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
    - Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!

    LTG (2015):
    - Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
    >8b+ RP options:
    - Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
    - Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
    >8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
    - Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight

    MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
    - Increase An-cap
    - Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
    - Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
    - Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
    - RRG routes: Table of Colours, 5.13a/b, something in the Madness Cave, >5.13a, Check out “The Tube” 5.14a/b
    - Boulders: The Dark Room, 7C+/8A, 36 Chambers, 7C, Be Ruthless sit, 7C+, In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
    - Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
    - 74 kg & 6.5% BF

    STG (next week)
    - Fix/sports massage on hip flexor & shoulders – fail – sports masseuse is on hols.
    - Fingerboard and S&C workouts – tick - repeat this week.
    - Start portion control/no biscuit diet; 76.7 kg & 6.8% BF – lurgy induced fail. Aim for no change next week as parents visiting.
    - Trigger Cut, 7C.

    Last week:

    M - Rest. 1st day of new lunch allowance at work coinciding nicely with anti-lard diet.
    T - Feeling the onset of a cold? Boulder on the 45 trying hard, then aero-cap. 10min 6c+, 10min 7a, feeling beasted, 10min 6b+/c. Hip/back very sore/spasming.
    W - Rest; weird snot blocked ears
    T - Cave session. An-cap laps on cave life short, LWH (short) and dust kick high. Learnt new beta for The Wire & Trigger Cut. Finger board aero-cap when home 15x 1min on/off + 6.5kg. S&C.
    F - Rest; felt pretty terrible when out bike pootling (50min, 20km flat). Zero vege/lardy dinner with wine.
    S - Orme. New high point on Trigger Cut; matching the shot hole for a second before firing off. Tomorrow People, 7c, 2nd go. Used to be a bogey route, then someone pointed out the chalk-less pinch and made it much steadier!
    S - Tor – Brief play on Bens Roof, doing the start for the 1st time. Then Mecca trying new beta options on crux. Stuck drop-knee and ninja kick exit twice once I’d swapped to Scarpas instead of Dragons. Remembered the groove beta, but recalcitrant ring finger sore when I came down
    M - Indoor session at Stockport to ensure absolute control over finger tweak. Warmed up, then did two of the V7/8’s on the steepness I’d not managed before. Finger boarding. Repeaters; 4x 35 degree (+6.5kg) 4x front 2 (+0kg). Foot-on campus aero-cap. 8x 90s on/off. Skin screaming. S&C. Finger no worse this morning.
     AJM 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to hms:

    Sept probably out, but long weekend in Nov a definite option still. Terradets, Oliana, Wildside, Riglos or Chulilla appeal, although I need to scope out which off those work for flights...

     Roadrunner5 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to mbh:

    Nice week.

    m: 5 miles 8:00 pace
    t: am: 4 miles 7:30 pace. pm: 10 miles with 3 x 1 mile at 5:20-5:30 pace, should have been 5 but legs tired from half sunday.
    w: 15 mile trail run, very very tired
    t: 4 miles 9:00 pace.. man flu
    f: am: 10 miles 7:30 pace, felt terrible. pm: 5 miles 8:00 pace.
    s: am: 4 miles 7:15 pace. pm: 13.1 miles 6:50 pace, breathing still bad.
    s: 10 miles, should have been 16, but just couldn't breath, so did 10 at 6:40 pace on hilly trails and roads. pm: 4 miles 7:15 pace

    85 for the week, 3 weeks out from Boston, pretty happy but this chesty cough needs to go.
    Wye Valley tomorrow anyone?
    The weather looks good again and after lots of people posting on here about it, I'm keen to see what the Huntsham bouldering is like...
     biscuit 07 Apr 2015
    In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

    Cheers for that. Top info from those who've done it is gratefully received.

    Did some laps on 7a today with quite disappointing results. I used to be known for resting my way up routes in Spain. Not anymore. Hanging off anything other than jugs with good feet just wasn't getting anything back.

    On the bright side I've been saved from making a fundamental error in my training and the only way is up.

    Cheers guys.

    OP Nick Russell 07 Apr 2015

    Was at Brean this evening, trying Bullworker again. I think I've got a sequence that will go (long reach into a gaston) but if anyone wants to share beta it would be good to try other ideas...

    edit: just pre-empting the "wait til it's cooler" beta... it should be ok for summer evenings, especially if there's a breeze
    Post edited at 21:22
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    30 March – 5 April

    Thanks Nick. Not quite the weather we’d hoped for and by the time I’d got my head around maps/circuits/ridiculous polish, it rained for the rest of the week. Was pleasantly surprised by how easy to navigate it is and how many edges and crimps there are. Now need to go back and crush the red circuit!

    M – Boulder 91.1. Blue circuit.
    T – Boulder Cul de Chien. Blue and Red problems.
    W – Boulder Rocher Sabots. Blue and Red problems.
    T – Raining. Rest and eat pastries
    F – Raining. Boulder Karma blue, red and black. Watched Melissa le Neve’s hangboard routine and got pretty jealous.
    S – driving back
    S – Boulder Cratcliffe and Robin Hood’s Stride orange circuit
     Ally Smith 08 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    This one is fresh in my mind:

    RH undercut in break, feet bridging across groove.
    LH up to big sidepull, walk feet across so body is facing L, and RH up to poor sidepull.
    Compress the two sidepulls, and walk feet rightwards; RF on edge of triangular block just under the roof-let and jam LF into break below undercut, twisting/pulling in with LF.
    LH can now reach statically up to the big sidepull.
     Ally Smith 08 Apr 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    > Sept probably out, but long weekend in Nov a definite option still. Terradets, Oliana, Wildside, Riglos or Chulilla appeal, although I need to scope out which off those work for flights...

    Not sure how my autumn trip is going to pan out, but all of those bar Riglos have appeal for a long weekender. Wildside in particular as i know the logistics work from Manchester and have my eyes on El club de la lucha (8b+)
    OP Nick Russell 08 Apr 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Thanks, I thought you'd done it recently. Sounds like the other method I tried (i.e not the gaston) but instead of "LH can now reach statically up to the big sidepull", I had "wild slap in the direction of the big sidepull". Worth a try with your food suggestions...
     Ally Smith 08 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Yeah - it's all to do with getting the LF in the break and really pulling yourself into the rock with it; then the hand move becomes much easier
     AJM 08 Apr 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    I'm still hoping to get something in those last 2 weeks in October so thinking mid-late November long weekend. I think although I'm not sure that either bournemouth or Southampton have Alicante flights over winter which might make Wildside/Chulilla the most achieveable options even though my heart says terradets really.

    Have now left Rocklands - fantastic trip all told. I think my final haul of problems was a 7A, 2 6C+ (assuming one takes the 8a.nu majority view on one of the guidebook 6Cs I did), 4 6Cs and 10 6B+s. There were a few classic 6Cs that got away - my finger disliked one (and there's a surprise 10 foot cliff underneath the start which isn't obvious in the videos!) and finger issues forced me to try a more difficult sequence on one of the others which was already "stout for the grade", but otherwise a good haul of the classics in that sort of 6B+/C region. MrsAJM crushed a classic 6B+/C, her hardest problem to date, and was in general very psyched.

    Not all roses though as my finger played up occasionally (either the pulley or possibly the collateral ligament, I'm not sure), and I also got weird pain in the middle of my hand sometimes which I think might be a flexor unit strain. Got a few days off luxuriating before we go home then probably have a pretty easy week back, give it all a chance to repair itself naturally before I'm forced to take further avoidance measures...
     J B Oughton 10 Apr 2015
    In reply to Mutl3y: For assisted one armer's, I've been using a theraband (bungee cord would do) wrapped over the bar. Hold that with one arm, do the pull up with the other.

    Holding the band higher up provides least stretch so more assistance. As you get stronger you hold the band lower until its doing almost nothing, and then you're ready for a one armer!
     J B Oughton 10 Apr 2015
    In reply to biscuit: Agree with the advice on The Ashes, admittedly I don't have a great memory for specific beta because it was being shouted uo to me as I climbed, but I don't think you need to worry about not recovering on things smaller than jugs.

    There's a vert 6c section which is a bit tenuous up the groove, followed by a tricky couple of moves to get in the eyes (about 7a+ altogether) where you've got huuuge jugs and decent feet. I seem to remember getting a massive drop knee which left almost no weight on my arms. Also I remember one eye was a bit more positive so don't bother using both just because the other is there!

    After that its a sprint up to the next set of good holds, so I wouldn't worry too much about recovering on shit holds on a steep wall. I'd try getting mega pumped on a few laps 7a/b, hanging out on some jugs, then trying to smash out something harder on the same wall.
     J B Oughton 10 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell: Cheers Nick, late reply as I've just got home. Had a good week, didn't cover myself in glory on sighting but I managed doing a tough 8a (8a+ in another guide and on 8a.nu) in two sessions which is big progress from doing a soft 8a in five sessions (my previous best). Will do a full report on Sunday!

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