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Scotland mixed weather low grade mountaineering routes

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 BnB 06 Apr 2015

I had planned to catch the dregs of winter a week from now (13th +) but not overly hopeful looking at the forecast. Please can anyone recommend some good mountaineering outings on the mainland which go in damp conditions? Flexible on location and not frightened of low grade wet outings but scared of falling to a horrible death so sensible suggestions please. I'm assuming classic Ben Nevis ridges (Tower etc) will be between seasons and slippery/scary but happy to be put right by someone with local expertise.

Thanks for any suggestions.
Post edited at 09:48
 Michael Gordon 06 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

Yes, a hard frost the night before would be good for Tower Ridge.

East Buttress on Beinn Eighe might be a good shout?
OP BnB 06 Apr 2015
In reply to Michael Gordon:

That's a good suggestion.

Just been reading about The Great Ridge on Garbh Bheinn in Ardgour. Anyone done that in the wet?
 petestack 06 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

I've avoided it because the direct start would be tricky and the approach to the regular start is loathsome.
OP BnB 06 Apr 2015
In reply to petestack:

That's an unequivocal response. Anything you'd recommend in Glencoe, other than Curved Ridge?
 TobyA 06 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

> Anything you'd recommend in Glencoe, other than Curved Ridge?

Have you done North Buttress on BEM? Perfectly doable as a chilly rock climb. Loads of ledges for belays and easy to protect. I don't often repeat routes, but I've done that three times as a summer route it's so good along with once in full winter conditions.
OP BnB 06 Apr 2015
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks Toby. That sounds a good tip.
In reply to BnB:

Up in Torridon, the traverses of Liatach and Beinn Alligin are always worth doing and go in the wet no problem. Another good one in iffy conditions is the Forcan Ridge.
OP BnB 06 Apr 2015
In reply to Rylstone_Cowboy:

Thanks Gerry. Those are all cracking routes but I'm after something a bit more floor to ceiling than a ridge traverse, although I did think of tacking the Northern Pinnacles of Liathach onto the start of the traverse to make a bigger outing.
 Webster 06 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

winter is still around and the forecasts suggest cold weather returning by the weekend, I expect the ben at least to be in good winter nick for a while
 petestack 06 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

> although I did think of tacking the Northern Pinnacles of Liathach onto the start of the traverse to make a bigger outing.

Cracking outing, but top-end, serious scrambling over the Northern Pinnacles...
http://www.petestack.com/blog/northern-pinnacles.html

Toby's North Buttress is a good shout at more like Diff on better rock.
 Pids 06 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

> Thanks Gerry. Those are all cracking routes but I'm after something a bit more floor to ceiling than a ridge traverse, although I did think of tacking the Northern Pinnacles of Liathach onto the start of the traverse to make a bigger outing.

Go up Terminal Buttress before doubling back onto the pinnacles, as good as Tower Ridge and you are most likely to be alone all day
 Michael Gordon 07 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

>Anything you'd recommend in Glencoe, other than Curved Ridge?

Quiver Rib goes fine in the wet (steep but massive jugs the whole way), though maybe doesn't fit the 'mountaineering' description.
 petestack 07 Apr 2015
In reply to Michael Gordon:

> Quiver Rib goes fine in the wet

Yep, been there, done that and nearly suggested it...
http://www.petestack.com/blog/cloudburst-on-aonach-dubh.html
OP BnB 07 Apr 2015
In reply to petestack:

Thanks. Looks good.
 PPP 07 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

Aonach Eagach Ridge (Winter) (II) is okay in damp conditions (I soloed a reversed traverse with one ice axe). It might be quite scary to traverse few bits if you don't know the exact path, so maybe a right way (East to West) would be a better solution.

In overall, it's an impressive day and since you don't just look up and down, you can enjoy Glencoe a little bit more .
 petestack 07 Apr 2015
In reply to PPP:

> Aonach Eagach Ridge (Winter) (II) is okay in damp conditions

It's horrible as wet *rock*.

> It might be quite scary to traverse few bits if you don't know the exact path

For some reason I'd guess the OP has probably done it before (perhaps multiple times) and is perfectly capable of looking after himself on such ground.
OP BnB 07 Apr 2015
In reply to petestack:

Good guess. Yes I've soloed the AE in winter nick and very enjoyable it was. But no rock climbing experience of the Central Highlands (experience is mostly Skye and NW Highlands) so keen to pick people's brains. I'm on Skye right now and winter is just finally fading away here.
In reply to BnB:
> Just been reading about The Great Ridge on Garbh Bheinn in Ardgour. Anyone done that in the wet?

I love that route and have done it in the wet. We bypassed the bottom bit and traversed in higher up from the left. Bit sketchy on some steep grass because I had trainers on but there was nothing I recall being overly untoward (though I was in a three and we travelled together for a bit on a rope).
Post edited at 22:55
 Nbrain 08 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

I'm having the same dilemma. Was going to go to Arran but the weather looks a bit gash in the west. Looks better in the east, any recommendations?
OP BnB 09 Apr 2015
In reply to Nbrain:

Good question. Some really helpful suggestions for three days based out of FW/Glencoe. But if the weather in the west is a write off, where should I go in the Cairngorms (assuming weather is somewhat drier out east)?
In reply to BnB:

I'll second Toby on North Buttress.

I climbed this 2 years ago in October in the rain with a burch of friend. Great day out in any conditions. Climbed in big boots with a light trad rack and 1 half rope.

Enjoyed it so much I climbed it again in January.
 Michael Gordon 09 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:
Some Gorms stuff could be good in weather like today, though you'll be looking at snow on approaches. Afterthought Arete would be a good shout to avoid the latter, though doesn't take very long. Some good diffs include Crystal Ridge, Black Spout Buttress and Laraig Ridge, the former two being more climbs and the latter one more mountaineering. Crystal Ridge is superb, though the snow above the route takes a long time to go. Flake Buttress in the same corrie is often about the first bit in Sputan to get clear on approach and tops out straight onto the plateau so is not a bad back-up (definitely more Diff than Mod).
Post edited at 19:42
 Captain Solo 10 Apr 2015
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I could see coire sputan dearg today, still tons of snow above and below these routes.
 Michael Gordon 10 Apr 2015
In reply to Captain Solo:

Thanks, yes, not surprising. Probably best to wait another month or have gone out a few weeks ago when the snow was hard neve
 CurlyStevo 11 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

Typically the first mountain rock routes that are worth climbind during spring are located on low mountains that face South also the islands can be a good choice. These are generally best at this time of year during warm mild spells. Typical choices are Garbh Bheinn South wall. Circ Mhor South face, The Cobbler & Binnein Shuas.

If there is likely to be seepage Then granite can be a good option as the friction is often pretty good still, whilst smoother rocks like schist tend to be much less enjoyable.

If it's actually raining I'd head for low scrambles or go walking myself.

Of course winter conditions aren't over yet either. Things are looking up for the weekend after this.
OP BnB 11 Apr 2015
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Sound advice I'm sure. We've plumped for an exploration of the northern corries on Cairngorm on Monday with the expectation of doing Fiacaill Ridge under powder but with gear for more serious stuff in Sneachda if avalanche risk doesn't materialise (which it bloody well should looking at the forecast).

Then Tuesday we might check out Creag Dubh near Newtonmore for some low-level cragging. Are the low grade routes (Oui Oui, Rib Direct, Tree-Hee) do-able in the wet for a pair of timid VS leaders?

By Wednesday we hope the weather will permit us to head west again and go for North Buttress on BEM if not winter on the Ben.
Post edited at 09:03
 Simon Caldwell 11 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

> Are the low grade routes (Oui Oui, Rib Direct, Tree-Hee) do-able in the wet for a pair of timid VS leaders?

When we did Tree Hee, the crux section was damp/wet throughout, and that was after a few days of dry weather. It made it disconcerting but I don't think it would have been much harder, as the holds were all nice incut edges.

Watch out for ticks though...
 CurlyStevo 11 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

Not been there many times but it can suffer from seepage, and given the compact nature of the rock I suspect the easier lines will be where it ends up. Damp schist well it's not great!

There's a number of fins of partially metamorphosed sandstonie type rock north of Aberdeen. Loggie head could be a good choice and it's not that far from aviemore in the grand scheme of things, if you just want to climb rock. It's often drier and milder around there too and the crag suffers little seepage.
 CurlyStevo 11 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

Also it could be worth keeping glen nevis in mind if you head west.
OP BnB 11 Apr 2015
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thanks. Poldubh is an option but the forecast is much wetter west. I think we be keeping away from Creag Dubh if there's anything more than the occasional showers we've been getting in the NW today. Hoping to find something further east as it's less familiar territory but Aberdeen way doesn't fit the itinerary.

Conagleann looks like an alternative destination: granite, roadside(ish) VDiff to VS. Thoughts anyone?
 CurlyStevo 11 Apr 2015
In reply to BnB:

Yeah can see Aberdean is going to far the other way for yr trip, loggie head however is by Elgin.


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