UKC

I'm not interested in getting any. As I can't see any functional use for them.
Surly if one nut one fit you get try another. I can see the advantage to essentially have a nut that can vary it's size but just seems like a piece of gear for not being able to select the correct nut size.

Anyone have any or experience with them. Just a curiosity rather than anything else


http://www.dicksclimbing.com/collections/hardware/products/camp-ballnut-sli...

In reply to Cerris90:

From what i've heard, they might be placed where nothing else fits (in some sort of pockets? Don't know how to describe). I guess you need beta for that kind of stuff and you don't bring these on every climb you do.

One route was downgraded from E7 to E5 (or maybe from E9 to E7, can't remember exactly now!) because someone figured out that the ballnut fits quite nicely on that route. I guess that's when you need them, but I don't see a point of getting them just as a standard rack. They seemed to be quite difficult to clean if you fall on them too.

In reply to Cerris90:

I haven't used them personally, but the point isn't variable size. The point is the expansion under load, similar to a cam. They work (supposedly) in cracks that are too thin for a cam and too parallel sided for a normal nut. Stronger than tiny weeny cams although also more fiddly to use, from what I've heard.

In reply to Cerris90:

Got a couple of similar gizmos, from the 80s. Their usefulness can be somewhat theoretical, but they can be used in parallel or slightly flared, and very shallow placements.

I've never taken a leader fall onto one and never intend to, but they've tricked my head into getting straight more than once.

In reply to Cerris90:

They're a pretty technical piece are ball nuts but very effective as a micro cam. I remember being grateful for one on The Long Reach. Can't remember where but definitely recall a calmness come over me as I got it to seat perfectly while lost on a bald slab!

In reply to Cerris90:

Shared a belay with a guy who was using one in a really thin crack seemed to work well I even looked into buying some until I saw the price.

In reply to Cerris90:

What goes around comes around. Sliders and rollers (?) tried the same thing in the 80s, never caught on.

In reply to robapplegate:

Doesn't mean they don't work though does it?

Parallel sided cracks are where these come into their own, usually the very thin ones!

In reply to Cerris90:

I got one, they have their place as someone mentioned in a similar niche as microcams.

Never fell on one but have used them for progression a few times. Worked well.

In reply to Cerris90:

I have a vague memory of one of those (or something like it) being the only meaningful runner my mate managed to place on Le Monde.

In reply to Cerris90:

Needle Sports like them, and if you search the Gear forum other people do too.

If they fit your 'way of thinking' when leading and looking for placements, they're probably as good as more commonly used gear, if you see what I mean.

In reply to Cerris90: I've got some similar rock'n'rollespill from the 80's and they worked well in thin cracks. Remember at the time friends went down to 1 and there weren't too many other microcams.

One of mine has very bent wire - it held a big lob , 7, 8 m. There was a cluster of small stuff, but thats the piece that worked

In reply to Cerris90:

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Camming-Devic...

In reply to Timmd:

Hmm useful. Where I don't doubt the usefulness. Obviously very specific. An one for a better phrase is bit above my pay grade. But then I do still think tri cams are wierd things. Still wouldn't climb with out my pink one though.

In reply to Cerris90:

I have one that I use in a very slim parallel limestone crack, on a project climb.

Never fallen on it, I suspect it would not be reusable after a fall, but then its that or hit the deck.

In reply to phil456:
Much in the same way that if you fall on a tri cam it's ninja to clean or its just u.s afterwards?

In reply to Cerris90:

Used 2 a few days ago in a narrow crack that wouldn't take anything else. Useful bit of kit. Managed to pick up a set of 3 on sale for a tenner a couple of years ago from a garden centre (of all places) just outside Norwich (again of all places).