UKC

I'm hoping to start getting in a bit of a regular bouldering session following work at least once a week, both Caley and Almscliff are about 25 minutes from work, then a 45 minute drive home.

I'm very very rusty bouldering outdoors, I haven't been out in about 6 months (hurrah for children!) and prior to that I spent the year doing fairly easy trad, VS and down. Still managing to get to the local wall though so bouldering indoor at about v4/v5. Outdoor I'll probably be looking at flashing v0/1 and working v2/3 (feeble!!).

Anyway, I'll have limited time, from 5pm through to whenever daylight starts to fade. What venue am I most likely to get my money's worth from?

I'll also likely be on my own as it's always going to be a somewhat last minute decision to go, so if either venue has more easy problems that don't majorly require a spotter (nearly killed myself on Bob's Bastard last year...) that would also be a benefit.

There's nothing to stop me alternating between the two venues but I'd like to start to get to know one, to the extent I'm not constantly checking my guide book to find where I am and where to go.

In reply to Kieran_John:

Probably 6 and half a dozen. While time (light) is limited maybe Almscliff on the basis that less time will be lost moving between problems.

In reply to Kieran_John:

In general terms Its Almscliff for power problems and Caley for footwork/balance. Choose either for the style you like best or the style you most need to work on. There are of course classic exceptions to this general rule at both.

In reply to Kieran_John:

Alternate as Mr Musgrove says would be my plan. Maybe weight it towards Caley early season and move to Almscliff when Caley gets too minging in the middle of summer.

As an answer to the actual question though - as a crap punter myself I think Caley offers more at the lower grades. It's just spread out a lot more.

In reply to Kieran_John:

Try Hunters Stones/Norwood too. Easily a few evenings worth around 6a/b and in lovely setting too.

In reply to Kieran_John:

Caley - much pleasanter than Almscliff

In reply to Alex the Alex:

Thanks, hadn't thought of these and glancing through Yorkshire Grit Vol 1 there actually looks to be a fair bit to go at, with minimum walk in.

I think Norwood offers a fair few problems for me to go at, Hunter's Stone has more mid-tier stuff from what I can see. I'll give it a go tomorrow, see if there's some stuff I can flash and some stuff I can work. Looks very pretty too.

Failing that I think consensus appears to favour Caley so I'll make that my go-to venue from work if Norwood doesn't fit, mixing it up with Almscliff now and again.

(TBH I currently favour power over technique so I'm probably best working feet/balance!)

In reply to Kieran_John:

Caley when conditions are good, Almscliff when a bit more iffy. Try to milk the technical joy of Caley while it's in its brief but beautiful season (well I say beautiful, you have to ignore the turds, graffiti and litter); since Almscliff takes 10 minutes to dry and catches any breeze going it's nearly always in condition so it's a waste going when you could be somewhere with nicer climbing. (I find Almscliff rather dispiriting as it has by far the highest concentration of problems I've tried a million times and never got any further - but this is much to do with going every time it's just stopped raining, i.e. a lot).

Are you as near Shipley Glen? Brilliant, but spicy. Not the best place to explore on your own, but once you know the place, it's really cool. There are enough low problems to keep you occupied but eventually you'll be tempted by the proper stuff.

In reply to Kieran_John:

Where do you live and work? There may be better choices with less driving.

In reply to Offwidth:

I live in Cas, but work Leeds city centre, about a 5 minute walk from the train station (I park in Wellington Street car park when bringing the car).

Jon: Shipley Glen appears to be a similar distance, about 25minutes there from work and 45minutes back to Cas. I might see if I can drag someone in to showing me round one of the evenings.

In reply to Kieran_John:

Maybe try the M62 accessible venues like Woodhose Scar and Lindley Moor (both YMC Vol 2) or the M1 accessible venues like Spoforth and Hetchell (Vol1)

In reply to Offwidth:


Elland bypass is accessible from Jct 24 but it'll take bloody ages in the rush hour to drive the two miles further to Woodhouse. Great problems though.

In reply to Kieran_John:

Tried Norwood tonight, had lots of fun, did the lower grade problems, probably not enough to keep going back to though until I get better, think next week will be Caley.

Was lovely and peaceful there though, fantastic view too. Wish I'd had a spotter with me, was reluctant to try the "Larchbow" problems, looked great fun but also a potentially dodgy fall.

Anyway, thanks for the advice guys!

In reply to Kieran_John:

Back again, didn't think this warranted a new topic.

I'm off to Caley this week I think. Given my limited time, and that I'm climbing V0/1 (and at a push v2!) would people advise Roadside or Crag? I've done roadside before and tend to find I spend most of my time trying to work out how to get to each boulder, is the Crag area a little more friendly for moving around?

In reply to Kieran_John:

The easier stuff is better under the crag although it can get a bit high.

In reply to Kieran_John:

Easythis time of the year to navigate - no bracken!