UKC

Hi,

When you use the back brake it doesn't spring back and stays rubbing the rim of the wheel. There is a fair bit of travel on the brake lever before you even actually brake. I can push the pads apart with ease manually. I've tried putting some WD40 on the cable (the majority of it is housed within the bike frame though) but that hasn't worked.

Anyone recommendations?

Cheers

Lynsey.

In reply to Lynsety:
Assuming there's plenty of freedom in the lever, then squeeze the pads together manually

If they spring back ok, then the cable is likely the problem, if not, then it's the brake pivot. WD40 won't help either much.

If cable, then either try dripping oil down the outers or replace inner and outer - can you see any rust anywhere?

If pivots, then they're either done up too tight or need stripping, cleaning and re-lubing.

After re-reading your post, I'd say the cable is the problem and needs replacing. Is the cable routing ok with no kinks?

In reply to LastBoyScout:

Just tried squeezing the brakes manually and they sprung back properly, watching the cable at the same time-it appears to be running through okay.

no rust or kinks, the housing is inside the top bar of the bike frame and in good nick. Only been out in the glorious sunshine so not much rust

When I press the brake lever it travels a good couple of cms before actually making the brake pivot work.

can the beake lever be broken in some way?

Lynsey.

In reply to Lynsety:
If the brake is moving freely, it's likely to be the cable. Either pull the cable out, lightly grease it and put it back, or renew the cable.

If you think the lever might be binding (unlikely) then release the clamp at the brake and see if it operated freely without the drag of the cable.

In reply to blurty:

Okay thanks, I'll try those suggestions.

Cheers

In reply to Lynsety:

I had the same problem - it was the cable. Replaced and now all good

In reply to xyz:

Oh that's good to know.

The housing on the bike is in good nick, I see that you can pay all sorts of cash for cables. Any benefit in paying for a 'better' cable?? Or is the braking no better?!?

Lynsey.

In reply to Lynsety:

I replaced both the cable and housing for the rear break. You can't see inside the housing so if it is nicked the breaking will still be compromised, replacing both is guaranteed to work. As you stated there are many options available at differing prices, I kept it simple and went for standard Shimano:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-road-brake-cable-set-with-sst-inner-wire/

In reply to Lynsety:

If lever moves without the brake moving your cable needs tightening. Loosen the bit which grips the cable - lower part of brake caliper - pull the cable through to take up any slack then re-tighten. You'll need either an Allen key or spanner for this.

In reply to Lynsety:
You are unlikkely to see a big difference in performance between cheap and expensive cables, but the more expensive teflon coated ones last longer before needing replacement.

Before you do this, disconect the cable at each end and manually push back and forth through the outer. Is it difficult to move ? it should move VERY easily.

If not check the ends of the outers for any burrs or pinching (they may be covered by metal or plastic ends you want to take these off before inspecting). Inspect the routing, just because its internal doesnt mean it cant get a kink, and the less tight any bends are the better its surprising sometimes how much drag you get from slightly bent cables or for example if a light bracket etc squeezes, or changes routing of, the outer. If you find any flaws then replace that section of outer (its not expensive) get a local shop to cut it for you trying it at home with a hacksaw is rarely a successful experience.

Routing internal cables can be a pain, so always try to keep something (either outer or cable) threaded through the frame to use as a guide when re threading.

Hth

In reply to balmybaldwin:

Well just managed to have a look, I released the cable and everything moves fine without any tension on it. Pulled the cable through more and works fine. So cable stretch is was then

Thanks everyone!