UKC

Morning all. I have done a quick search of previous topics and articles, but didn't glean much from what I already knew so would love to get some tips from those with more knowledge.

I'm heading to Lofoten in about 5 weeks for a cycling/climbing tour with 3 friends. Basically I'm after a bunch of ace routes up to about HS/VS (n5-) that we can head up to really immerse ourselves in the amazing place.

Location isn't an issue; we're touring all the way from east to west so can potentially take in any crag. I'm digging through the Rockfax guide book currently, and would love to be able to tick off the first 6 routes of the Top 50, but there must be heaps of gems at the VD/S (n4/n4+) level, preferably as multipitch as possible. It would be top to get up Vestpillaren, but 2 of the 4 guys on the trip aren't at that level so maybe we'll have to play that one by ear...

Any ideas as to must-climb/see/cycle/fish spots are very welcome!

In reply to Ben Snook:


Hopefully there is more in the current guidebook, but I don't remember there being huge numbers of routes below VS. Of course there are some, Bare blåbær is a must for example, but once you get to top end VS, HVS and E1 there is more.

The Rappel Route on the Svolvaer Goat is great - well protected Jug hauling on an open face from what I remember, maybe about HS? That doesn't get as much coverage as the original route for example.

In reply to Ben Snook:

Remember to download the update here - http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/miniguides/lofoten-update-2010/

This has some good new stuff.

Alan

In reply to Ben Snook:

I haven't been there (but am also planning a trip for this year!), but one route which isn't in the Rockfax guidebook itself but is covered in the update and fits your criteria is Den Engelske Turist - 4+, 350m. There's also a 3+ 'Vdiff' described on the same page of the update, along with a better topo of the nearby Ptarmigan Slabs (also 4+). Could be of interest!

http://www.rockfax.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Lofoten-2010-Update_A4_pa...

In reply to everyone:

Thanks for the input! I have indeed got the update, and spent some time last night post-it noting various pages. There is so much to go at, I'm a bit bummed I'm going to be distracted by having to cycle! Some of those easy routes (on the Ptarmigan Slabs for example) look like true adventure lines up mountains; it's super cool that there is a vague line drawn and the pitch instructions boil down to 'go up'. Spot on!!

In reply to Ben Snook:

Ptarmigan slab was nice... did it the 1st time I was there... descent was adventurous, though. The lines are more or less evident, as you pic a staring point and then follow weaknesses (so that you can get something in).

Unfortunately as Toby said, I don't remember there being all that many good sub 5- routes.

Most of the good stuff was 5+/6-/6 (so HVS/E1/E2 terrain) from what I remember.

But to be honest, some of the 5+'s weren't all that much harder than the 5-'s... a few well protected moves.

In reply to HeMa:


The perils of an inadequate single tier grading system which doesn't actually tell you how hard a route is to do

In reply to Robert Durran:

It actu

Incorrect... as the double tier system is completely irrelevant. Some 5+'s are VS or even easier, where as some would prolly get E1/2.

The norwegian single tier grading tells you exactly how hard the climbing is going to be... and then you need to decide are you willin' to climb it or not (ie. slab, no gear vs. crack, gear all the way).

In reply to HeMa:

Which is precisely my point! E1/2 is much harder to climb (in the sense that you are much less likely to be able to do it) than VS, yet they get the same grade.


It tells you only technically how hard it is. The UK system also gives you a good idea of whether you are likely to be able to climb it before you leave the ground rather than when you are faced with a sustained, bold, pumpy section on the 8th pitch which is given the same grade as the short safe bit on the first pitch. What you effectively admitted with your "But to be honest, some of the 5+'s weren't all that much harder than the 5-'s... a few well protected moves" - the fact that you felt the need to point this out proves my point!

In reply to Robert Durran:


Which is why I pointed out, the fact that while more straining or "harder" they were still safe.

Not the case with some E1s or 2s.

In reply to Ben Snook:
if you say 2/4 guys aren't at the level for Vestpillaren, then 2/4 are? I would highly recommend it if it's nice weather, it's awesome. Give yourselves about 12 hours to get up and back down again. I remember only one crux move where the protection was tricky. The rest is either comfortable climbing and/or well protected.
I think it was pitch 7...

Also, with 5 weeks to go, it's worth training up for it.

In reply to HeMa:


And again you prove my point by admitting feeling the need to give additional information to compensate for the inadequacy of the grading system. The fact is that without it you just don't know what you are letting yourself in for - as you said yourself, anything from VS to E1/2.

Anyway, even if you don't get it, I'm sure the OP does and would rather get back to recommendations for wonderful climbing in Lofoten.

In reply to JuneBob:

Thanks for the advice! Your guess is correct, I strongly suspect the other 2 (myself included) are more than physically capable, but it might be something of a headgame. I'm fairly sport route fit, but it's been a while since I've done any extensive tradding. I hope we manage it; maybe gauge how our standard is in the days before hand! (As an aside, I think we have met; I'm based in Trondheim).

In reply to Robert Durran:


Ah, this old chestnut Horses for courses I think; I'm happily on the fence, seeing the advantages for both. I certainly know more of what to expect from a route of E1 5b than n6- (or 5.10a!), but I'm afraid that I am still more psychologically affected by E2 (having only led/onsighted one) than n6, even though I know I can onsight sport routes at n7-!

So perhaps not knowing (or rather, trying to forget!) the E-grade for Vestpillaren is an advantage in this case!

In reply to Ben Snook:



I thought it was solid E2 the first time I did it and my opinion didn't change the second and third times . Others will disagree.......... But it was just as brilliant every time.

In reply to Ben Snook:


I did Vestpillaren when the guidebook gave it just a Norwegian and US grade, so was well impressed to find out I can climb E2! I've never climbed another E2 so I doubt that one really is. By the way, I remember thinking that there is a hardly a move on it that couldn't be aided so it is safe as houses to have a go at. Worst comes to worst, you'll take some rests on gear any maybe have to pull on the odd runner or two. You can also abseil the direct start (or at least a few years ago) from insitu anchors. So you could try that first and if it goes smoothly go back and do the whole thing with lunch in your backpack!

In reply to TobyA:


Apart from the last pitch into the gully, which is a bit of a nasty surprise when you're knackered and starting to think it's all over!

In reply to Pagan:

It's a long time ago since I did it but I remember worrying about that pitch the whole way up having heard stories of it being difficult. I'm pretty certain it was my lead too, but anyway when we got there it was all over quickly and not too hard at all. I do remember some tiny cam provided solid and very useful pro for the tricky move though, so might be good to take if you have!

In reply to Pagan:


It's also worth noting that it is about as nasty to second as lead!

In reply to Robert Durran:

Not if the leader isn't a douchebag. Instead of building the belay at the 1st possible locale. Simple go up the moist gully for odd 20m or so and build the belay there. So the traverse is always protected by a toprope for the 2nd.

In reply to HeMa:


As I recall the first good high belay is on the other side of the gully, so a bit of a swing into the gully is still possible. It certainly requires care.

In reply to Ben Snook:

Hi Ben,

I went to Lofoten a few years back, one word of advice is Sea Breeze is a lot harder and more serious than you expect, The grades we followed in the Rockfax guide weren't that accurate. Single, heavily corroded, bolt belays with no gear for the next pitch. I was glad i was really comfortable at the grade.

As said above, Vestpillaen is great, you can aid all the hard bits if needed, plus the first four pitches have bolted belays so you can retreat if required. All of the pitches are great apart from the final gully.

There is a route on a crag on the way to the boulders around the back of Vagakallen that was awesome, can't remember the name now, puffriset possibly.

Anyway, envious of your trip, i had an amazing 4 week trip there.

Centurion05

In reply to centurion05:


Sea Breeze? Can you let me know which/where route this is - I can't recall it (old age!!)


cheers


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:


It's on the same crag as American Tourist. I big slab by the sea.

I also had a torrid time on it. At one point my girlfriend pulled off a block, which bounced down the slab, over the road, narrowly missing our hire car, landing in the sea with an almighty splash. It started to rain near the top, which made the top pitches even more exciting. Plus we abseiled down the wrong descent gully. At least it doesn't get dark.

http://tomripleyclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/lofoten.html

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Of course - my mind is deffo going! Those routes could do with rebolting,


Chris

In reply to Ben Snook:

Ah yes - I recognise your name now

In that case, go to Segøra for the weekend in Fosen, it has a small cabin next to it, and some sweet multi pitch trad. I did Himmelstigen last year, great fun.
Also, Storen has some multi pitch trad too.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=20724
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18003

In reply to centurion05:


Are they bolted!? Is that a new thing? There were equipped rap points 11 years ago when I last did it but I remember it being insitu nuts etc. but might just be my memory playing tricks on me!

In reply to centurion05:


I had a torrid time on Puffriset - I like to think I'm fairly steady on bold routes but I was completely convinced I was going to die! It's worth noting that the HVS grade from the Rockfax assumes you ab off after the 2nd pitch - continuing to the top is more like E2 as the 3rd pitch is a fairly dirty, scrittly and bold slab (and I think the Lofoten update reflects the grade).

In reply to TobyA:


Definitely some bolts on this belays in 2008. Fully bolted up with chains and rings - no, but very solid for sure.

Alan

In reply to climbingpixie:


The HVS grade in the book was for the whole route. I did it with Colin and we were happy with the grade. Alan and Mark did it on another occasion and thought it more like E2. I think the key is that we did it late in the season when it was clean and they did it early when it was very dirty,

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Unfortunately the bundle of tat at the top of the main pitch means that hardly anyone seems to bother with the top two pitches now. We did it in early July and those top two pitches were a right mess - falling off the slab pitch would be a very painful experience; even in dry, clean conditions HVS would be a sandbag - considerably harder and more serious than TPS for example.

Re. Vestpillaren - I'm pretty sure all the belays up to the big ledge were bolted when we did it in 2012. No bolts above that though.

In reply to TobyA:

I was there in 2009 and remember ab'ing off without leaving anything behind, don't remember it being tat either. We climbed the E1 to the left of Vestpillaren as i had done vestpillaren twice already in that trip!

Chris Craggs, Yeah Sea breeze is right by the sea, by a closed off road, or atleast it was when i was there. Climbing was ok but very serious, more like E1/2 5a in my opinion. I let my partner climb an easily graded pitch for it to turn out to being the hardest one yet. The descent down the climbers left gully is interesting to say the least, single peg belays leading to saplings that are at the same angle as the gully.

Puffriset was ok i thought, was fairly clean when i done it though, didn't remember seeing the tat but there probably was.

I tried a Mick Fowler route on the way to Vagakallen, given E1 ish. The first pitch had one piece of gear to a single bolt belay, my partner was feared so we ab'd off.

In reply to everyone:

Thanks heaps for all the discussion, team, it's appreciated. Consider my enthusiasm thoroughly whetted...