UKC

I'm starting to feel the need for new shoes. I've been climbing for a few months, and recently started trying 6a and noticing how my shoes are folding over my smaller toes. There is a fair bit of space there, and it's making small holds an issue.

I have a very long big toe, quite a bit longer than the second. All the shoes I've tried don't seem to get anywhere near the tips of my smaller toes before my big toe is squashed and folded in half. The best I've found are Scarpa Techno X, mainly due to the stiff soles. But they pull the big toe in so far due to the point.

I was just wondering if anyone else has this issue and has some recommended shoes or tips to make a pair fit better.

Thanks!

In reply to GregorySchadenfreude:

I have exactly the same problem, best shoes I found are Scarpa vantage's, as they lace right down to the tip of the shoe you can eliminate most of the space by lacing very tight. I get the shoes to fit my similar, but smaller left foot, and take the pain in my right big toe. I suspect any shoe that laces down to the tip would work.

Hope this helps

In reply to GregorySchadenfreude:

amputation?

In reply to GregorySchadenfreude:

5.10 Newtons if you can find them, very narrow at the front, laces right down to the bottom and great shoes. Recently had to replace them and ended up with the anasazi guide, much wider unfortunately. The newtons are the only shoes I've worn that really grip my foot laterally at the front.

In reply to GregorySchadenfreude:

Shoes that lace All the way should help with reducing toe volume as these guys have said. The narrower 5.10 shoes could also be a winner - for example Anasazi whites have a very pointed asymmetric toe box.

Another one to consider is trying a shoe that allows your big toe to curl more comfortably or just 'more' than normal. Maybe evolv's 'love bump' shoes? Or just trying a lot of shoes where they have leather just where the knuckle of the big toe would sit and no 'toe scumming' rubber so they could stretch and give you a better fit.

In reply to GregorySchadenfreude:

Thanks for the suggestions! Had a slightly more productive search today, and leaning towards Boreal Silex Laces. But I will try and find the shoes mentioned here to make sure. Read that the Silex were less precise than a lot of shoes, but maybe with them being my second ever pair I should still be aiming for comfort and fit over precision?