UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 422

This is my first time doing FitClub so please be gentle with me, especially the runners amongst you, I have never and most likely will never be much of a cardio person so do try to excuse any stupid questions I come out with!
Many thanks to Nick for doing a sterling job with the stats for a good while now, I'm happy to continue doing it for the forseeable, but anyone who wants to do a week here or there is more than welcome.

Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=613502

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

No psyche video this week (feel free to suggest your own) as I've been in the wilds of Kalymnos, i'll endeavour to find one for next week.

Last week's posters:

Ian Rock - Can't beat real rock! Did you get out again this week?
Joughton - Interesting choices of warm up routes but congrats on the 8a(+), beast!
Nick Russell - Great volume of real rock, look forward to hearing about Morocco
MrChewy - Bad news on the leg, and the air strike, hope the holiday got better?
mbh - Knocking a minute a mile off a hilly run sounds impressive! How was the 5 Tors?
Mattrm - That's a lot of bike miles, any climbing this week?
Planetmarshall - Glad to see the psyche is back, any news on the hand?
Flopsicle - Congrats on the win, everyone loves free entry! F7 doesn't sound too far fetched to me...
Dandan82 - Still hanging out in the sunshine...
Cheese Monkey - did FitClub tips help with the cramps? Also, log/face interaction sounds painful but very story-worthy...
Roadrunner5 - Congrats on the GB team selection!
Ally Smith - Good bouldering week (even without a dodgy finger!), well done on Trigger Cut
hms - Sounds like a solid week all around, more of the same this week?
Willi Crater - Welcome back, looks like a steady week, don't go too hard too fast on the fingerboard!
Tyler - Any improvement on the work/life balance this week?
Exile - I've seen easier rest weeks!
AJM - Fat week sounds tempting, have you made some STG progress this week?
Biscuit - Sorting out your diet will work wonders with energy levels. Did you squeeze anything in this week?
Humperdink - Sounded like a good race, well done! Some of those distance and times boggle my tiny mind.
0.5viking - You have a Midtbo wall? Does he set routes on it regularly?
Lancer - Taking the BM on holiday - now that's dedication!
Just Tintin - Looks like you squeezed a lot in considering, an even better week this week?
Creedence - 4 day week? Living the dream! Nice mixed week there.
The Ex-Engineer - How's the crimpy 7a coming on? I'm hoping to be at Portland next Sat if that helps you?
Joyce - That does sound like an awesome week! Did you get on Underhand again this week?
Mutl3y - FitClub is all about motivation, keep posting!

In reply to Dandan:

I'll get this out while it's still fresh, we definitely slowed down a little in the second week of the holiday, partially due to the abrupt change in weather meaning most days became a sun-dodging exercise more than ticking every route in sight, and partially for me because my elbows were starting to show the strain.

M: We got hold of some scooters to range a little further afield, we didn't have to go far before finding Arhi, a beautifully situated crag just around the headland from Massouri, nestled in the side of an inlet that ended in a beach and the small town of Arginonta, really picturesque stuff.
I wanted to give my elbows a bit of downtime so I only climbed one 6b and spent a lot of time encouraging my wife on some really nice mid-6's. The reason I was there was to eye up Angelika (8a) 8a, which really didn't disappoint.

T: Back to Arhi with fresh elbows, warmed up on some fab long 6a/b's, then went straight for the big guns, time to have a go at Angelica.
I'd watched a super lean guy wobble up the start and work the moves bolt to bolt through the lower section the day before, I was worried as he looked strong but made it look pretty hard and there is a lot more route before the chains (It's short for Kaly at 22m but does overhang 20-30 degrees the whole way)
As soon as I pulled on the route I was surprised and very pleased to find the holds much nicer than they looked from the floor! Goes to show you can sandbag yourself when watching others!
The first open, sloping ledge had a really positive edge to it, the thin looking slotted rail was a pair of finger jugs, the rubber-coated footholds were better than expected, it went on like that.
I did every move on the route on that first go, and not in isolation either, every move was done with at least one move preceding and following it. The crux for me was a set of thin crimps near the top, it's a throw out right to a decent crimp but with a terrible intermediate and bad feet, but I still got through it. All that follows is a distinctly drop-able set of moves up a small tufa to the chains.

Had a rest, had a second go and got over halfway up the route clean! Worked the rest but the wall had come into the sun and everything at the top felt nails. Elbows were starting to make themselves heard by the end.

W: Actual rest day, beach and everything.

T: Up to Odyssey and our first experience of Kalymnian polish! It really is a popular sector and some of the warm up climbs are horrendous. I wanted to go steady as I was savng myself for another visit to Arhi the next day but I was talked into going up Dionysos (7a) 7a to retrieve the draws that my wife couldn't strip after seconding. I flashed it comfortably (being able to comfortably get up 7a/+ with regularity is still a great feeling) but my elbows weren't entirely happy about it.

F: Back to Arhi, some warm up climbs, elbows not entirely happy but being ignored with a healthy dose of Ibuprofen. Back on Angelica and it just felt hard. Every hold felt worse than it had before, every move felt longer and stronger, it was really tough going. Left elbow screaming by the end. I did refine a bit of beta so it wasn't entirely wasted, but no 8a tick for me this holiday
I've noted down my sequence so when I return next year I can get back on it and not spend too much time re-learning the route.

S: Home time, my left elbow actually kept me awake that night, it was throbbing really badly. All the work I have put into injury management has definitely worked, but still not as well as I had hoped. More research required, I might get to my GP and try to get a scan on the elbow, see if I can uncover any more useful info.

S: Mow the meadow that has appeared in the back garden, shop for next week and prepare for a return to boring old work.

So no 8a, but lots of really good ticks and an overall fantastic holiday. I'm going to look into buying a property over there, both as an investment and of course for my own personal use...
I think I have the fitness and strength for the 8a tick, I just need to find a route I can put a little time into and get it done. Looks like a few visits to the Cuttings over the next couple of months to get Fighting Torque (8a) sorted once and for all, or perhaps try to stretch to Cheddar and put Right-Hand Man (8a) to bed as I have some history on that one.

I will chill out this week and think about some goals for the future, one of which will be a quick dispatch of angelica next year and the strength to get some 8a+/b ticks while i'm out there.

Holiday stats:
Routes climbed: 60
5's : 4
6's : 42
7a: 5 (all onsight/flash)
7a+: 1 (onsight)
7b: 2 (both onsight!)
7b+: 1 (flash)
7c: 2 (1 flash, one dnf)
7c+: 0
8a: 3 attempts, no ticks

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for hosting fit club.
I'm
After a few weeks non-climbing due to work, this week was an awesome week- out on grit doing some trad at last, and managed to not only onsight lead my first HVS (tick!), but to actually lead 5 HVS routes onsight in two sessions at Stanage. My hands are trashed, which is lucky as I now have a manic 3 weeks at work which will probably mean no climbing for a bit.

Mon- driving back to UK from the Alps. Knackered.
Tues- climbing at Stanage Popular- good session, including a fall off a HVS (got fixated on a finger crack and ignored the natural surrounding holds) and my first onsight lead of a separate HVS (the curiously named Queersville...).
Wed- fingers recovering from yesterday's gritstone exfoliation. PM- gym session- kettlebells, dumbbell press, indo board.
Thurs- gym session- 3 x 10 pull ups, 3 x 8 TRX pull ups, 3 x 8 kettlebell press, 3 x 8 kettlebell swing.
Fri- rest
Sat- climbing at Stanage Popular- 3 HVS onsight leads, 1 HVS second and a VS lead. A great morning, and getting slightly more used to routes with less or marginal protection, and with holds that take some serious thought and good footwork.
Sun- fingers recovering.

Goals:

STG/ MTG-
Indoors 6c.
Trad- Onsight HVS (tick! Now just need to build up experience at HVS)

LTG
Trad- Lead E1.
Have a reasonable punt at 7a indoors.

In reply to Dandan: Unlucky with the 8a but 7c flash is still pretty good going!

Quieter week for me this week, gave myself a full week of rest after the trip because is was quite intense.

Wed - first time bouldering in a month so felt a bit weak. Lock offs in oartixular, but also the ability to lift and hold my feet on high holds which was odd. Finger strength felt fine though.

Sun - new 6b - 7a+ circuit, very pleased to get them all in one session as there were five or so problems at or above 7a plus about twenty other middle-to-tough. New super speedy road bike is brill.

Cheers, Jake

In reply to Dandan:


Not been a brilliant week for it. Post honeymoon illness wiped out half the week - I made it to work but in the evenings I just crashed.

On the biking front I've managed a partial rescue today - 31 miles, 1900ft so about 50% of the distance and 40% of the climbing of the May ride itself. A good start point after some time out of the saddle, especially since the 2 main hills in it were notably more defined hills than on previous rides (where more of the height gain was lumps and bumps or gradual rises). Definitely something to build on. I wonder if a tweak to the STGs might be to do a 70% ride on both metrics before the big day.

On the climbing front, the combo of half-healed pulley and flexor unit strain is definitely more limiting than the almost unhealed pulley on its own. I did discover I can campus on the big slopy rungs pain free though since they're impossible to crimp and the shape precludes doing them without the pinkie and there's nothing to dig into the afflicted area.

I've got a tweaked plan through which should be designed to stop me aggravating it so that's going to start next week (might get a head start and tick something off this evening).

I did some trad in the sun on Saturday tho there was a hold or two which I could feel the pulley on which is dispiriting. Not sure what to do about that as I also felt very wobbly/rusty so it's clearly something I need to continue with before the scotland trip. Maybe give it another go next weekend.

In reply to Dandan:

First of all, thanks to Nick for his long stint, and thanks to Dandan for taking it on. You'll be fine! Second, no question is too stupid to ask about running. I ask them all the time, and am never sure if I have the right answer. (Between you and me, there are some seriously good runners on here, some of them fuelled by red wine and ravioli. If you think a cardio question in your head is really dumb, try it out on me. My answer will make it look smart )

So, to my week: an actual race to cap it off, the 5 Tors in glorious sunshine on Bodmin Moor. The results aren't up yet,and I'd be surprised if I was in the top half of the field, but I won most of my own little races against those around me, had a good morning out and met some more real runners, which has moved me yet further out of my solitary bubble. The rest of the week was mainly me getting to or from work, so not much variety, but I put in a good few miles and pushed it (ie 7:00 ish) on a good few of them.

65.7 miles, 6000 ft ascent.

M - 5 miles local hilly route.
T- 9.3 miles from work @7:28
W - same again @ 7:25
T - to work this time, @ 7:53
F - from work @ 7:39
S - 15.1 miles hilly(2400 ft) @ 8:44
S - 5 Tors race (near where Cheesewring Quarry is, from Minions) , 8.3 miles, 840 ft, @ 8:34. I should be able to improve on this. Felt knackered and just coasted really, enjoying the sun. I need to develop a race "head", one that enables me to push myself just that bit harder.

In reply to Dandan: Cheers for taking over.

A potentially poor week has turned into a massive success! Just sent Chulilla (7b+) about an hour ago as my first ever f7b+

M - nowt
T - Boulder @ St Bees - One V4 and various V1/V2s.
W - nowt
T - being really lazy
F - working
S - Boulder - Short session after work, two more problems ticked.
S - Chulilla f7b+ redpoint @ Brean

It seems like this training malarkey actually works...

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan! Yes had some good advice. Got my foam roller now which is helping already. We were liberating some logs and I was helping him load them into the car and it went a bit wrong!

Good week this week, been very busy. Not put major effort in but plenty of training.

M- Cycle commute. 1hr cycle in evening, took in some big hills in Bristol - Bridge Valley Road is tough!
T- Cycled up to Henbury pool and had a very good swim
W- Laid turf, managed to slice arm open badly in process and then 30min run
T- Sent Pet Cemetery 7a first go with no warm up! Had a go at Too Hot To Touch 7b
F- Finally sent the New New Quarry traverse. Very pleased. Followed up by 50min cycle 10min run brick. Quite windy so was hard work
S- Swim at Bristol South. Horrible and busy so didnt do much at all. Nevet going again mid Saturday morning. Bouldering at Bonehill in pm, close to a V5 but ran out of skin
S- 30min run

Hoping to continue with this level of training this week but put some more effort in

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dandan. It turned out to be a pretty intensive week on grit - 6 days on and over 90 problems, although a massive bulge at the very very low end of things. As we've done so little on grit before (1 week this time last year), getting mileage even on easy stuff seems like a good idea. Did manage 4xV3 and 3xV4 (approx, as UKC mixes up V anf font grades plus it and Rockfax peak bouldering vary considerably in places). Most memorable was probably Magnetic North (boulder not route) with an awesome high campus along a ledge with terrified spotters far below. Most memorable for the wrong reasons was a VB on Mother's Cap which seemed stupidly high with no discernable holds, relying utterly on jamming which I can't do. Was bleeding profusely & jibbering by the time I got to the rounded top. Loved the format of the Rockfax boulder guide with its circuits as it gave us a purpose - plus the directions beat those in the 3 books we'd had to lug about last year.

M - Stanage Buckstone and Causeway
T - Curbar trackside boulders and other nearby stuff. Got all of 1 move up Gorilla Warfare!
W - Stanage far north in a freezing gale
T - Burbage valley boulders in lovely sunshine. Tried really hard on a V4 crimpfest but couldn't get the top. Did get a V4 stamina traverse.
F - Mother's cap, then Secret Garden with Ally Smith who'd come for an evening session and to collect his pads, without which we would have been totally lost.
S - travel
S - S&C x 3.

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Forgot goals
STG- No more calf cramps. Doing well.

Link the main sections of Too hot to Touch.

Put more effort into training this week

MTG- 7b! Too Hot To Touch at Ban y Gor seems like a good candidate. Recon it will take several more sessions

Triathlon. Eek its now a MTG

LTG- More 7b. 7b+

In reply to mbh:

Results for the 5 Tors now out, and better than I thought: 48/190 overall, and 5/21 in my age group. But 4 runners in my town ran faster than me Must catch them next year!

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers dandan!

Very motivated at the mo. Healthy eating has been a breeze and really enjoyable. Weight at 64.1kgs this morning is just fine considering.

Highlights:
M-nowt, making lentils or something
T-25k, 500metre cycle ride. Felt good! Works session in eve.
W-Did every single new pinkle (39 probs, F5+/6Aish) in under an hour. Not hard but felt on form to smash them all out.
T-nowt, buying vegetables or something
F-quick stanage raid, with a rope! Awesome.
S-25k, 500m bike ride, same route as before, faster than before. Quick Boulder session, ticked Cornflake on Stanage, F6C+. Great!
S-30k, 500m bike ride, slightly different route, faster segment times, no knee probs too so great. Works session, wasps, F6Bish, did half a dozen new ones, mostly ones I'd struggled with before. Awesome.

Cheers all and best of luck with your paths

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for doing fit club fella.

2015 aims:

Winter VI 7 - Tick.

Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar

Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade

Summer -get on some slate

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: 1hr 30min road ride (Mountain endurance)
T: 1hr 30min wall (PE & core)
W: Rest
T: 1hr 30min hilly road ride (Mountain endurance)
F: 1hr continual traverse on fingery 6b+, (finger endurance)
S: Rest (but did 100 sit ups in one shot just to make sure I still could.)
S: 1hr 30min wall (PE & core) & 1hr unintentional MTB fartlek

A good week training made better by having read Racing Weight and starting to loose weight through putting it into action.

In reply to Dandan:

Better week from a climbing PoV but still no biking.

M: Went to the Outhouse, spent most of the session watching Eagle River reset problems to suit his limited skill set.
T: Rest
W: Boulder UK
T: Pull ups; 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 12, 10, 9, 9
F: Rest
S: Trollers, abandoned a project I'd all but done a before when I discovered a hold had come off. Got on a 7b+ nearly got it first RP but needed another two goes. Surprised it survived the new guide at 7b+, very soft.
S: Malham, got on Serious Young Toads,three dogging goes, third in the sun

In reply to Dandan:

Better week from a climbing PoV but still no biking.

M: Went to the Outhouse, spent most of the session watching Eagle River reset problems to suit his limited skill set.
T: Rest
W: Boulder UK
T: Pull ups; 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 12, 10, 9, 9
F: Rest
S: Trollers, abandoned a project I'd all but done a before when I discovered a hold had come off. Got on a 7b+ nearly got it first RP but needed another two goes. Surprised it survived the new guide at 7b+, very soft.
S: Malham, got on Serious Young Toads, three dogging goes, third in the sun. Not soft!

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for doing the stats Nick.

STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st 5lbs (same)

M - Lazy
T - 200 dish tucks
W - 14kms mtb ride
T - 100 dish tucks
F - 14kms mtb ride
S - DIY
S - DIY + 200 dish tucks

Quite a lot of hole digging and moving of gravel on Saturday. Otherwise, it's just been getting on the bike ready for Dyfi. I suspect the Dyfi will be really quite painful to be honest, but I'm looking forward to it all the same. Lots more garden DIY coming up in the next week as well. I had been planning to go climbing on Friday, but it fell through. Which was a pity. I'll try to squeeze in a wall session this week.

In reply to Dandan:

Morning Campers,

Ta Nick for statting it up, hello Dandan, good on yer fella.

Training Diary WC 13/04/15
Rest Week/ Maximum Strength Training Week 1/3

Monday – Rest
Tuesday – More rest.

Wednesday – Yet more rest.
Thursday – Huntsham. Climbed Golden Undercut (6C+) – felt hard – in about ten goes; pleased with this as couldn’t touch it last year. Worked the crux foot jam sequence on my project Between The Lines (7B+) as opposed to just trying to fluke my way through the crux. Good news, can get the jam to stick, just need to maintain body tension and go for the last hard move – a short but hard hand movement to a good hold. Felt solid on it – ace!

Friday – Managed a new PB of six pull ups on the small crimps on the ol’ BM. Assisted 1 armers: 3 sets of 6 all -7.5kg. Set 1 = all 5 sec 90’ locks then sagging to 8s. Set 2 = sagging in 7 -8s. Set 3 = sagging in 5 - 8s. Felt strongest yet for first set. Will go all out for 10s next time but only do 2 sets. Offset pull ups: 3 sets (1 set = 3 one side, 1 min rest then 3 other side). Best yet – do need a little less leg waving next time though. Hypergravity pull ups (+7.5KG): 1 set of 9 (new PB), 1 set of 5, 1 set of 7. Tried some of them thar front levers jobbers but spent.
Saturday – 11KM round the woods in 49:08, including 245m of ascent. Sun’s out, bluebells out – marvellous! Food for the soul.
Sunday – Huntsham – working The Loop project (8a) with Tom. Warmed up then sent the first half (Ames High, 7A+) second go (a repeat) including the span move and cracked on around the easier bit down The Flakes (5+). Made it as far as the span move at the start of Wol Sema (Ames Low reversed) (7A+/7B?) and dropped out as tired – approx. 15 moves to go. Wasn’t pumped but tired. Followed this with 4 or 5 really good attempts at Wol Sema, getting past the two crux sections and then failing on felt like it ought to be the easier end (‘cept it’s still cheekily difficult). Really stoked with today. Great progress, great banter and a great piece of rock. Project ‘The Loop’ is properly ‘go’ now, this is my focus for the next 4 – 6 weeks. Whoop whoop!
Weight = 72.9kg

Right then, goals:

Review of STG (by Easter):
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both). Nope
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power. All but slopers improving, more of these needed.
Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far. – Didn’t really try any new ones so ongoing.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness. Yup.
So, still got them two 7B+ projects to go (close on both, I think), more slopers needed and need to get on some 7A+s when out and about – new STGs right there.

MTG (by end of September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone.
Build a training wall in the loft.
Run an 18 min 5K.
Run a mile in 5 mins.

LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them! Made a start – feels goooood!

Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.

Keep up the good work team, looks like there's a lot of positivitivitivity, progress and successes, I believe that the technical term is 'BOOM!'

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers for stepping up to do fit club Dan.
Didn't get out on rock this week but did get to tick off a goal for the year - "get up a worked v2 boulder problem". Actually flashed a v3 problem so pretty chuffed!
It involved a dyno off a smear, straight into a hanging pullup to get my legs up high enough to bridge a corner with another smear so I could go for the next hold. It has the potential for slipping awkwardly and making a tit out of yourself and I'd normally bottle it, but my daughter and some of her mates from the youth group were watching at the time and some how I made it stick!

Realised it was 6 months since I had a beer / alcohol. Dropped 3 stone in that time. God knows how I managed that.

M - Cycle commute. Run - 4km. Got really warm and heart rate went a bit weird. Canned it early.
T - CC. Squats, push ups and planks. Did with out rest to failure.
W - CC. Rest / walk.
T - CC. Run - very easy 6km. All good.
F - CC. Rest. Beasting grilled meat and chilli sauce fest, nom nom.
S - Run. 5km @ 80% max heart rate.
S - Indoor bouldering. V0 - V3. Climbed pretty well, but got tired easily. Need to work on my stamina.

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks

Steady week nice finish, Just a superb race to end the week with. This race replaced Boston so I was so glad it was such a great race. Just loved it and competing with my new team mates, first season as a sponsored runner.

m: 8.5 miles 8:30 on trails
t: 12.3 miles 7 hill reps 2500 ft ascent, Mts Misery and Joy at Valley Forge.
w: 4.5 miles at a tral system near a school I was working at. 7.4 miles around the roads steady
t: 5 miles 7:10 pace. pm: 8 miles road and tral 7:10 pace hilly route.
f: am: 4 miles easy. pm: 6 miles 6:50 pace
s: 28 mile, 10,000ft ascent trail marathon, 2nd in 5:12:24, winner was 5:12:22.. great day with my new team mates, one of whom was the winner.. this was the finish: https://www.facebook.com/MountainPeakFitness/videos/1103278986354704/?video...
s: am: 6 mile hike, 2000ft hike Breakneck and Sugar Loaf, Hudson Valley. pm: 3.5. mile run 9:30 pace.

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing this.


M - Resting.
T - Climbing outside. Can't remember what I did - obviously a good session!
W - 30 mins run.
T - Fingerboard session.
F - 30 pull-ups, core body workout.
S - Climbing outside: 6a+, 6a+, 6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6b+, 6b, 6a+
S - 40 mins run.

Goals (revised):
Stg (end May) - weight 11st or less
Mtg ( end June) - improved cardio fitness, weight down to under 10st 10.
Ltg (end of year) - red-point the project (7c)

In reply to Dandan:

Ta a lot for this Dan - muchly appreciated. Yes, the hols got better.

STG - Climb better.
MTG - Climb better.
LTG - Salbit West Ridge.

Mon - Rest up. Walked 6/7 miles in Barcelona the day before and the left knee/leg is pooped. That'll teach me to fall off. Tons of stretching and anti-flamms.
Tue - Montserrat south side. I think Collbato? Anyways, flashed some slabs up to 6a. Grades felt about right. Climbing with locals who played drums and a digerdoo within minutes of getting there. Good scene. Even some barefoot climbing.
Wed - Montserrat again, not sure where but old bolts and grading. Climbed up to V+ but it was interesting! 8m to first 'bolt', the next at 10m and then a runout for 6m... some of which could be pulled out by hand, all about 2 inches long and footholds were breaking off as you stood on them. Saw two big rings at the top about a foot apart and thought "thank the gods" but when I got there one of them was no use whatsoever. Haha. Lots of monos on V/V+.
Thu - Bailed on Suirana due to storms and it rained even on the coast, so rested up the knee.
Fri - Montserrat south. Newish bolting but warned by locals that the grades were solid. Worked a 6a all day, the hardest sports thing I've ever tried to climb by a long way but managed to go bolt to bolt after a few hours, then with one fall just before I headed to the airport. Some great climbs there, including a 5b that had fantastic moves the whole way. It'd have been 6a/+ most places I guess.
Sat - Masson Lees for the first time. Only the second time on limestone since last May, ticked a 6b first lead after a quick look on top rope, also got on a 6c. I think I like limestone.
Sun - High Neb for the first time. Seconding and leading Vdiff to E1. Had a great day, met up with Kevster and his lady, plus my physio. Didn't want to risk the knee heel hooking on Kelly's Overhang but otherwise all the climbing was great there - best place I've been to at Stanage. Most climbs climbed well.

Top few days actually. Ran out lots of things happily, so no head issues after decking and also my first gear ripping the other week. Conglomerate slabs are still minging, when it gets vertical, it seems a lot easier even if it's harder. Did enjoy Montserrat this time tho and it was cool to climb with locals, can't wait for the trip in October to start.
Only spent 10 minutes on the 6c but managed all the moves apart from the crux - the 6b felt easy tho, so I guess I need to just work harder stuff this summer. The two sessions with John Kettle have helped hugely. Climbing way more efficiently, not having to pull as hard and much fresher for the hard bits.

Well happy today.

In reply to Dandan:

Another great weather week in the Peak coupled with the longer evenings made getting out pretty easy and a real pleasure, on the flip side it's been frustrating not being able to climb as much as I'd like. I did some easy routes at Burbage and some bouldering at Apparent North last week but I can feel the stress on my hand and I'm not keen to push it.

Mon - Rest
Tue - Trail Run 14.6km/356m
Wed - Rest
Th - Trail Run 11.17km/426m
Fri - Trail Run 11.02km/473m
Sat - Trail Run 15.19km/518m
Sun - Rest

5 weeks of this transition period remaining, next week I'll be introducing some general strength and conditioning sessions and hopefully some climbing, depending on what my hand will cope with.

Spoke to GP No.3 last week, who seemed a bit more pro-active in finding out what's happened to my clinic appointment. I can't arrange any private treatment until the end of the month anyway ( no health insurance with my current job...had it for the previous 10 years and never used it once. Typical... ).

In reply to Tyler:
.



Fixed that for you.

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks, and thanks for doing the thread too. Getting free entry for 6 mths is awesome and I hope the variety hwlps bring me on a bit. F7 Feels an age away, it would be 2 grades not one from my top end climbs and there's 4+ less months to do it in! It'll have to be F7 though, because I just can't 'feel it' for F6c as yr goal when I've led F6b+!

I'm struggling a bit after having April 10th as my date and focus. It was quite a woolly goal, to just get there knowing I'd kept up getting fitter and stronger but I did what I wanted and now I'm a bit 'meh' about what to shoot for next. I suspect the running will reduce due to not much liking the heat. I know what I should do - pull my finger out with strength work - actually DO the exercises recommended last coaching session. It hurts, it's boring, I hate doing it but I know I need a little something up my sleeve for when technique isn't there.

Anyway - here goes:

Mon - 3 mile run, 1.5 hrs lead climbing/top ropes.

Tues - 3.4 mile run, 2 hrs bouldering

Weds - 2.6 mile run

Thurs - Nowt, just went swimming with my daughter.

Fri - bouldering with daughter, did get some new reds ticked at the Depot, quite a few actually but time etc a bit meaningless as sharing with munchkin.

Sat - Nowt and had a Toby Carvery.... nom nom burp!

Sun - 1.5 hrs Dragon boat rowing, 2 hrs climbing (mixture) and a 1 mile dash as I had 10 min spare before return of my daughter.

So - need motivation tips for strength stuff, or will it always be the 'washing up' of exercise? Strava lifted running from that status for me, I need the pull up, dead hang, knee touch equivilant so I can learn to love the burn!

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers! Quick update this week:

M: am 4/5M easy, pm - 5/6M steady
Tu: 10/11M steady
W: lunchtime session: 2x 1M in 4:46 and 4:51 (3min recovery) then 8min jog then 8x"300" in 48/9 sec average, pm - 4M easy
Th: am 4/5M easy, lunchtime 4/5M easy
F: pm 4/5M steady felt tired
Sa: am: 10x2mins on grass (90 sec recovery) - hard but got it done, 9/10M total
Su: 12/13M steady

67M for the week, ok but not the best weeks training I've ever done. Still, on to the next week!

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan Dan.

Another week of some great results out there for people.

Sadly for me i managed one bouldering session and that was it.

Not sure where i'm going to get any sessions in this week looking at my diary.

However i've got 10 days of leave coming up end of this week. First time off since last April.

Plan is to run every/most days but i AM going to get a day out on rock.

In reply to flopsicle:

"Strava lifted running from that status for me, I need the pull up, dead hang, knee touch equivilant"

Snap. Isn't there that Beastmaker app? Never tried it myself but willing to give it a go. Any peeps on here tried it?

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for doing FC Dandan, sounded like you had a great time at Kalymnos! Yes my local wall has the wall designed by Magnus. He has a book with routes on the wall, I don’t know if there are new ones coming, but there is a possibility for it. People tend to not really like the wall as it contains a lot of dyno’s and demands a lot of core strength.

Didn’t got on my STG the 7+, so after two weeks this goes off the list. Also didn’t run last week, but hope on going this week.

Weight: 70.3kg
M: ski-touring 600hm
T: indoor bouldering, did my first 6C+, some laps on autobelay afterwards, got a 7-, and got halfway up a 7+ and saw new beta from another climber on a 7+/8- at the point where I struggled last time, but didn’t get up as high today.
W: indoor climbing, went for a juggy route in a roof, but needed a break and felt an old hip injury pop up, so backed off and aborted session after 3 routes.
T: rest
F: outside climbing, flashed a 5+ and a 6, then was convinced to try a 7 onsight, but hopped off twice before the first bolt, because that’s where the crux is, then flashed it on toprope.
S: outside climbing, warmed up by onsighting 5-, then 6- and 6 onsight. Tried a 7-, fell around 8 times before I got past the crux and then right to the top. Practiced the 7- on toprope to dial the moves, but fell at the crux in all my ground up tries.
S: outide climbing, a 4 pitch 4+ trad route, was a very enjoyable outing.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for taking up the mantel Dandan;
Finger seems to have bucked up its ideas and let me get some more ticks, but then overdid it with volume at the end of the week and split a tip; 4 days rest until RRG this coming weekend.

BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!

LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight

MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Increase An-cap
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- tick Well Done finish
- Boulders: The Dark Room, 7C+/8A, 36 Chambers, 7C, Be Ruthless sit, 7C+, In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Dare not speaks its name Parisella’s Objective; 8A+/B
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF

STG (next week)
- RRG routes: Table of Colours, 5.13a/b, something in the Madness Cave, >5.13a, Check out “The Tube” 5.14a/b
- x3 S&C workouts in hotel – I’d better start now…
- only 4 biscuits in the last week, but don’t know if it had an effect as I’m not at home for 10 days now.


Last week:

M - Forced rest – parents still visiting.
T - Another productive cave session; and so it should have been after 3 days rest! Smashed BCDLS (7C/+) Worked sections of cave route/problem project; completed all but a foot swap in short link sections. Finished with an-cap; 3x Cave Life, rest; 3x RWR/CB, dropping final move each time!
W - Knackered from a bunch of late nights; just about mustered psyche for 2 rounds of S&C.
T - Cave again! Not a very focused session though - did the missing foot-swap on project link. Did a random 7C and repeated Sam’s finish, 7B+ for the first time since a hold broke.
F - Should have been resting, but 1.5hrs with hms at Secret Garden sacrificing my hard earned callus’ at the gritstone alter. Beach Ball, 7A was only notable tick, but lot of other fun slopey stuff too.
S&S - Malham. Zoolook into Well Done finish. Reacquainted myself with moves on Zoolook and worked new stuff up top, then various failed goes over sat & sun with best effort being in 3 on Sunday morning before getting too cold and leaving SuperTed to collect the draws.

In reply to Ian Rock:

Beastmaker app is evil- I have yet to complete the 5c routine, although I am getting closer, doing it once a week. I am getting certainly stronger as I am completing more of the reps and feel less pumped on recent grit routes, but it is a git of a programme. It is on Apple or apparently Android.

In reply to Dandan:

Got a wifi connection (and a carpet) in Tafraoute, so posting a quick check-in. Climbed the last 6 days with good routes every day. Probably changed the plans on the new routes, there's so much out here already and we're just finding our way around. Full writeup next week!

In reply to Dandan:

M: 25 mins Aerocap

T: Orme - Hornby crag's, onsighted Rough Rider (6b+) as a warm up then had a go on the 7a Rocky Road, too cold in the wind and kept getting hot aches/cramp so just did links on it. Got a great session.

W: 25 mins Aerocap

T: 25 mins Aerocap

F: Rest

S: Orme - Mayfair was rammed so went further along. Flashed After the Gold Rush (6c) then worked the moves on Mr Chips in the sun, sun went in and got too cold. 1 poor redpoint.

Went down to the Hornby's flashed: Klass Act (6b), Old Skool (6b+) and Emus in the Zone (6c+)

S: Rest

Happy to be flashing stuff above 6c again. Trying to get some milage in, need buckets more stamina, got a trip to Ceuse planned in September with some 7b/+ routes in mind. Fitness fitness fitness.